Yamaha F150 Fuel Filter Service

T

tpbrady

New member
The Yamaha manual calls for replacement of 3 engine fuel filters at 500 hours, so with 545 hours on my engine, I took the plunge. There are three filters involved, one in front of the engine, one on top of the Vapor Separation Tank (VST) and one inside the VST. The one in front is easy, the ones involved the VST take about 2 hours to do. There was an excellent post on the Hull Truth with pictures of how to do it. I won't go into detail, but you could see the effectiveness on the Racor 10 micron fuel filter that is in the line between the tank and and the engine. The filters I replaced had no indication of any debris embedded in the filter or laying in the bottom of the VST. I suspect the motor would have continued to run for the next 500 hours without any problems.
 
I replaced the 3 filters last year. The front and F shaped filters had no debris but the VST filter on the high pressure fuel pump had about 25% buildup.
 
I answered but didn't see it posted

I have 844 hours and have 4 filters: Racor fuel and water 10 micron, Yamaha front filter, F shape filter near top of VST and internal filter on the high pressure fuel pump inside the VST
 
I have the f-115 yamaha I use a 10 micron blue yamaha filter in between the eng and fuel tank and have a small filter on the engine in the back by the spark plugs .
Should I be looking for another filter somewhere ?
 
I change the Yamaha 10 micron and the small one on the front of my motor which the bowl has a water sensor with a two wire connector coming out the bottom when I winterize the motor. I have never changed the other two the f shaped one or the one inside the float tank. I do however drain the float tank as part of my winterizing as my local dealer recommended. I guess I'll do the other two this fall. I have a little over 200 hours on our motor. I pulled both tanks last year, cleaned them out completely and pulled the fuel pick ups cut them at the bottom on a 45 degree angle. I also have a inline filter before my external 10 micron which came with a Garmin add on fuel flow meter kit. I have made sure I can easily bypass that filter should the filter in front of the paddle wheel should get loaded up as it is the first line of defense. Thanks for sharing.
D.D.
 
jennykatz

It might be in owner's manual or check the Yamaha online parts diagram. It is very useful tool. The F shaped filter if you have one is in-line with the fuel hose. Just follow the the fuel line from the front filter to the Vapor Separator Tank or VST. Mine is located on the top left side of the VST and has black cover but the filter is white and you can see some white around the black piece. It is smaller than a stick of gum and connected to fuel lines. There are several lines around this area and might need to move them to see it clearly

The fuel filter inside the VST is attached to the bottom of the high pressure fuel pump and the VST needs to be removed and taken apart to replace the filter. It is not that difficult. You can clean the tank and replace the O ring at the same time. It has round base with a 2 micron filter about the size dime in the center. Buildup can occur over time to the point that fuel flow is restricted and can bog down or stop the motor when running on speed but will idle fine.

best
 
Brent,

I'll take a picture of the one I took out tonight. That looks pretty grim. I know the previous owner always put Stabil in his fuel at every fill (up to 390 hours). The balance of the time I put on the engine but haven't been using Stabil. He kept the boat in Bandon, OR (It orginally was sold in San Diego and spent the first 80 hours or so there.)

I wonder why the difference.
 
I think the VST HP pump filter the Admiral and I replaced was the original one

We also replaced the low fuel pump and pull the injectors and had them cleaned at Flagship Marine in Punta Gorda, FL.
 
Reviving this just because of it's subject line. I have a 2009 Yamaha F150 outboard. I've tried several times to "open" this filter up, but it won't budge. I'm afraid of trying any harder at the possibility of busting it, but does this entire thing need to be replaced, or should it open up allowing access to an internal filter? Colby

First photo is of the fuel filter in question, and the second is just a close up.

IMG_0606.jpg
IMG_0605.jpg
 
Also, while not shown in the photo, there is some kind of electric device stuck in the bottom center of this filter. It's tight fitting and can be pulled out. Curious what it's for. Colby
 
Colby,

I just replaced the fuel filter on my Suzuki 140. The fuel filter case is very similar to yours. In the Owner's Manual it says to separate the filter unit bracket from the motor before removing the case from the filter head piece. It should rotate fairly easy going counter clockwise by hand. There is an O-ring that attaches to the head piece and you may want to apply a very light coat of water faucet grease to it while replacing the filter. That electric device is probably a water sensor. You should disconnect the lead wire connector of this sensor before removing the filter case/cup.
 
Colby,
Cat O' Mine is still in the shop with manuals aboard during Hurricane Delta. I last dealt with that cannister in 2017 to get to the engine N2K adapter, which lies under it with a cap plugged into it. As I recall, this is a water in fuel sensor, not a filter, but not sure. I agree you can't turn it until removing it's bracket, and even then ? need if no visible fuel/water floatline.

YouTube demos of owners sawing into genuine Yamaha blue fuel and black oil filters have convinced me it's worth paying a few bucks more for them!

Cheers!
John
 
Thanks guys. When I come back from our next trip (Kentucky Lake Oct 14-28), I'll try taking the unit off the engine brackets and then try opening it. Colby
 
Colby,

Let us know what you find in there. There should be a cylindrical paper type replaceable filter inside the unit. Be careful when you unscrew the cup because it will be full of fuel. The filter will look like new but be sure to replace it. :thup
 
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