This info is probably old news to the guys that have ran Yamahas for a few years, but having just purchased our 22 Cruiser with a F-90 and a T-8 Yamaha 4 stroke engines this year, I decided to find out how many and where the zincs were located. Mine happens to be late 2007 model years and I thought it would be a snap to find info on them. I was really surprised to find out how many of my boating friends that run Yamahas had never even checked the zincs and in fact didn't know where they were. The internet wasn't that much help with some of the schematics they are shown in. Our dealer had 25 in stock at about $26.00 each ( located on the internet for $26.00 for the pair) but didn't know exactly where they were located either. Anyway to make a long story short I found the 2 internal zincs on the 90 under the rear spark plug cover down between the spark plugs. Just remove the small bolts and they pull right out. They have a square o ring that seals them to the block and the zincs are threaded onto the retainer plug. The 8 hp is located on the top r/h side under a bolt that is hard to see without removing 2 small bolts from a small control with 4 screws in it and laying it to one side. Both are small button or spool zincs and the 8 hp price isn't bad, but $26.00 for the 90 is ridiculous to my way of thinking. There are also 2 external zincs, 1 on the left side down by the tilt mechanism and the one under the cav plate. Mine were still plenty serviceable after I cleaned them up and I don't know if they have ever been changed or not. These are very critical if you run salt water like we do.
Yamaha 4 stroke internal anodes (zincs)
- Thread starter Sea-C
- Start date
ON our 06 f-115 yami very similar to your 07 90hp we have 2 zinc's where you have by the plugs and also one more on rt side of engine, if boat is on trailer and looking at rear of engine .It's about halfway up engine right next to the lower cowling .It's very easy to miss but must be looked at yearly along with other items like oil and filter changes water pump replacements etc. jim
gulfcoast john
New member
If you run Yami's and are not 100% dealer-dependent, I'm impressed with
http://www.simyamaha.com/
Order your REAL Yamaha manual there (requires eng serial #).
Andy knows everything about all of them and is patient even with newbies on the phone.
Examples:
I screwed up a stainless braid connector between bracket anode and engine. Local 5-star dealer says, 'I don't have a part number for that, you'll have to make it up out of leader wire.' Andy had part # almost in his head.
I have carefully researched connecting my engines to the Garmin n2k network I set up. He very diplomatically, and very accurately, says, 'well, you can do this the Yamaha way, or the way some other people do it', with the part numbers and cost for each component.
5-star local dealer service manager says, "We've never connected a Yamaha to a non-Yamaha network; in fact we've never put in any network at all.'
I'm going to do it the Yamaha way, even though finally out of warranty these are a couple of very expensive engines.
Costs after shipping still less than dealer.
PS only run ethanol-free gas, puregas.com unless no old gas in the tank for over 30 days, 90 days max.
Yamalube RingFree is probably worth it, I've been convinced.
Let us know if you're not delighted with SIM Yamaha service and support.
Cheers!
John
"If it ain't broke...I haven't been playing with it."
http://www.simyamaha.com/
Order your REAL Yamaha manual there (requires eng serial #).
Andy knows everything about all of them and is patient even with newbies on the phone.
Examples:
I screwed up a stainless braid connector between bracket anode and engine. Local 5-star dealer says, 'I don't have a part number for that, you'll have to make it up out of leader wire.' Andy had part # almost in his head.
I have carefully researched connecting my engines to the Garmin n2k network I set up. He very diplomatically, and very accurately, says, 'well, you can do this the Yamaha way, or the way some other people do it', with the part numbers and cost for each component.
5-star local dealer service manager says, "We've never connected a Yamaha to a non-Yamaha network; in fact we've never put in any network at all.'
I'm going to do it the Yamaha way, even though finally out of warranty these are a couple of very expensive engines.
Costs after shipping still less than dealer.
PS only run ethanol-free gas, puregas.com unless no old gas in the tank for over 30 days, 90 days max.
Yamalube RingFree is probably worth it, I've been convinced.
Let us know if you're not delighted with SIM Yamaha service and support.
Cheers!
John
"If it ain't broke...I haven't been playing with it."
On my Twin 40's there are internal and external zincs. The externals I replace every year, the internals, I have asked about and the Yami certified mechanics say if the externals are replaced annually the internals will be OK. I can do the externals, but the others are past my pay grade yet.
Thanks for the tip on the simyamahy and Andy.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Thanks for the tip on the simyamahy and Andy.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
If the zincs on your 40s are in the same location as mine, they are a snap to change and you would have no trouble doing the job yourself. After you get the cover off they are staring right at you down between the spark plugs. You can't get yourself in trouble taking them out. If you have any metric sockets that is to do the job. The dealer might tell you they will be ok if you change the external ones, but I guarantee you they will eventually fade away over a period of time. Might take awhile but for as easy as they are to service, a little glance at them every year is no problem at all and well worth the time if you are running in salt water much.
Thanks to Jim on the Jennykatz, I found a third zinc right where he said it would be. A little harder to get to than the other two but still no problem to take out. Just have to remove the bolt and zinc at the same time because there isn't enough clearance with the cowl to let the bolt come out first. Our local parts man at the Yamaha dealer didn't even know there were three.
(Takes a 12 mm wrench or socket to remove them) Don't have to remove the 10mm in the center of the holder to remove the holder from the engine because that is what holds the zinc in place. You also have to unthread the zinc from that bolt because the bolt is threaded into the holder. You can remove it after the zinc is loosened if you want but no need to, the zinc has a 3/8 allen wrench opening in the end of it. If it's not all corroded away.
(Takes a 12 mm wrench or socket to remove them) Don't have to remove the 10mm in the center of the holder to remove the holder from the engine because that is what holds the zinc in place. You also have to unthread the zinc from that bolt because the bolt is threaded into the holder. You can remove it after the zinc is loosened if you want but no need to, the zinc has a 3/8 allen wrench opening in the end of it. If it's not all corroded away.
Thanks Jim. I take care of anything on my engines that need attention, but the Sea Dory I only bought a short time ago with the Yamahas on it and it takes a little while to get acquainted with each ones required services. My 90 only had 156 hours on it but I changed the oil & filter in both it and the 8 and replaced the spark plugs and both fuel filters while I was at it. I also replaced both water pump kits even though they were both in excellent shape. I have been commercial and pleasure boating for 50 years and have had some pretty interesting boats over that time. I built a new 35 foot fiberglass troller for trolling Alaska in 1986 and it was quite an experience. Turned out pretty comfortable for the wife and I though. The little dory for us right now does just fine.. By the way I have a brother retired in Florida, there in Auburndale. Sorry, getting off the dory subject.. Don't want to get yelled at...AL