I purchased a 2000 watt Freedom XC inverter/charger. Looking on how to properly install this into the Blue Sea 30A main panel with six breaker spaces. Im guessing I install a 30A single pole breaker on the panel to run the AC line in. Line out goes to the main bus bar. any help appreciated.
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Xantrex Freedom XC inverter/charger
- Thread starter Z50
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journey on
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Wait a sec. If you feed the inverter output to the mail bus, it'll go to anything 120 Vac you have on. This'll include the heater, refridge and the 120 input to the inverter itself. Do you want that/
What I did was install another 15 Anp, 120 Vac breaker on the input panel. Then run the 120 Vac electric plug input to the inverter and the 120 Vac inverter output to the new breaker, Of course, you'll have to wire in your batteries via an appropriate dec breaker and a Perko-type rotary switch.
I've had Xantrex inverter and charger for the last 20 years, worked well.
Boris
What I did was install another 15 Anp, 120 Vac breaker on the input panel. Then run the 120 Vac electric plug input to the inverter and the 120 Vac inverter output to the new breaker, Of course, you'll have to wire in your batteries via an appropriate dec breaker and a Perko-type rotary switch.
I've had Xantrex inverter and charger for the last 20 years, worked well.
Boris
I have installed a few of these. What you have said so far is correct. Install a 30A breaker on the main panel to feed the inverter. The trick is how you feed the AC loads from the inverter.
The best way is to position the loads you want to power from the inverter's AC output on the lower end of the main AC panel. These might be 110V outlets and the microwave, but should not include the water heater or air conditioner.
Then once these loads are at the bottom cut the buss that feeds the breakers just above the ones you want to power from the inverter. Then feed that new, short buss from the inverter's AC output. Use #10 wire for both runs.
These lower breakers will be fed on a pass through basis from the 30A supply breaker, through the inverter's transfer switch and then to the new buss for the lower breakers. When shore power is not available and the inverter is on, it will supply the lower breakers, but the upper breakers will not be powered.
For DC hookup, use big wire. For a 2000 watt inverter you could potentially pull 200+ DC amps at full load. Check the manufacturer's recommended wire size, but I wouldn't go any smaller than 1/0.
You also need a separate ground, #8 will do, for the chassis ground of the inverter to a ground on the boat.
David
The best way is to position the loads you want to power from the inverter's AC output on the lower end of the main AC panel. These might be 110V outlets and the microwave, but should not include the water heater or air conditioner.
Then once these loads are at the bottom cut the buss that feeds the breakers just above the ones you want to power from the inverter. Then feed that new, short buss from the inverter's AC output. Use #10 wire for both runs.
These lower breakers will be fed on a pass through basis from the 30A supply breaker, through the inverter's transfer switch and then to the new buss for the lower breakers. When shore power is not available and the inverter is on, it will supply the lower breakers, but the upper breakers will not be powered.
For DC hookup, use big wire. For a 2000 watt inverter you could potentially pull 200+ DC amps at full load. Check the manufacturer's recommended wire size, but I wouldn't go any smaller than 1/0.
You also need a separate ground, #8 will do, for the chassis ground of the inverter to a ground on the boat.
David
You can power the entire buss, but it takes discipline to never turn on the water heater for example. That will quickly run down your batteries.
If you want to wire it this way, take the incoming power from the shore power inlet and run it to the inverter's AC input, Then take the AC output from the inverter and wire it to the main panel's 30 amp breaker.
All users will be powered by the inverter in this case.
David
If you want to wire it this way, take the incoming power from the shore power inlet and run it to the inverter's AC input, Then take the AC output from the inverter and wire it to the main panel's 30 amp breaker.
All users will be powered by the inverter in this case.
David
I wanted to be able to turn on and off the inverter when connected to shore power, that's why I was thinking about using a 30a breaker. If hooked up directly to shore power I would not have that option. If I knew how to post a picture I would draw it out. Im more of a visual persom.
journey on
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My inverter has the chassis ground and power return wired together. Please check this for your unit. The diagrams didn't show this, so I called xantrix. If you tie these together, eventually you gonna plug into a new marina that cannot tolerate the imbalance. I did and learned that their GFI breaker opened.
If you're going to remember to turn of the refrig, water heater etc, you're better that I am. And the consequences are all bad: no start, no dc power. Please don't wire the unit in line with your main shore power. Wire the ac input through it's own breaker and the output to the outlet breaker. This does mean that you can only power the plugs, but you'll always have power.
BTW, I assume the microwave just plugs in and isn't hard wired. And the input AC power always goes through the inverter? If you wire the main power through the inverter, all your ac circuits will be run through the inverter.
Boris
If you're going to remember to turn of the refrig, water heater etc, you're better that I am. And the consequences are all bad: no start, no dc power. Please don't wire the unit in line with your main shore power. Wire the ac input through it's own breaker and the output to the outlet breaker. This does mean that you can only power the plugs, but you'll always have power.
BTW, I assume the microwave just plugs in and isn't hard wired. And the input AC power always goes through the inverter? If you wire the main power through the inverter, all your ac circuits will be run through the inverter.
Boris
Does your inverter charger have an automatic transfer switch? If not, you probably want to put one in. This senses 110V AC, and bypasses the inverter when on 110V AC power.
I have my inverter charger set up a little different. The 110 side feed thru the panel with the main 30 amp breaker, and goes only to the "outlets", and has a built in transfer switch. I also have the microwave, air conditioning, water heater, and battery charger (house bank) excluded from the inverter. (My boat has specific breakers for each of these loads).
The inverter has its own battery bank. A 2000 watt inverter should have at least 100 amp hours of usable battery power dedicated it. (this means two group 31 batteries). We use 2 100 amp hour LI FePO4batteries, with a usable capacity of about 180 amp hours.
The 2000 watt inverter will suck down the "normal" group 24 battery which comes with the boat in very short order.
My particular inverter will also sync with the mains power, and if the voltage is low, it will boost it to 120 volts, up to 2000 watts.
The size of cable depends on how far your battery is from the inverter. I use 2/0 and it is about 40" round trip (20" each way, fused at 300 amps 12 volts.
You need to have sophisticated type of battery monitoring, to determine, voltage, amps in, amps out and state of charge. for the inverter batteries. The Victron 702 is probably the Best Buy and choice.
I have my inverter charger set up a little different. The 110 side feed thru the panel with the main 30 amp breaker, and goes only to the "outlets", and has a built in transfer switch. I also have the microwave, air conditioning, water heater, and battery charger (house bank) excluded from the inverter. (My boat has specific breakers for each of these loads).
The inverter has its own battery bank. A 2000 watt inverter should have at least 100 amp hours of usable battery power dedicated it. (this means two group 31 batteries). We use 2 100 amp hour LI FePO4batteries, with a usable capacity of about 180 amp hours.
The 2000 watt inverter will suck down the "normal" group 24 battery which comes with the boat in very short order.
My particular inverter will also sync with the mains power, and if the voltage is low, it will boost it to 120 volts, up to 2000 watts.
The size of cable depends on how far your battery is from the inverter. I use 2/0 and it is about 40" round trip (20" each way, fused at 300 amps 12 volts.
You need to have sophisticated type of battery monitoring, to determine, voltage, amps in, amps out and state of charge. for the inverter batteries. The Victron 702 is probably the Best Buy and choice.
journey on
New member
Heavens above, Bob and I agree. One should not wire an inverter in series with the main breaker. One can use the battery charger breaker since the unit is a charger/inverter combination. Run the output to the ac plug breaker.
Actually the purpose of this post is to say that I used a cheaper battery monitor, the Balmar SC200, which gives DOD and state of health. Putting in the shunt to measure amps was a bear; the meter was simple. Both the Victrin and the Balmar do the same thing: amps in/out, DOD, capacity of the battery and voltage.
Boris
Actually the purpose of this post is to say that I used a cheaper battery monitor, the Balmar SC200, which gives DOD and state of health. Putting in the shunt to measure amps was a bear; the meter was simple. Both the Victrin and the Balmar do the same thing: amps in/out, DOD, capacity of the battery and voltage.
Boris
thataway":ngv9s5qa said:Balmar is good--but Micah has had some issues with his on solar and high voltage--but I believe he has the older model.
The Victron 702 is $178.50, vs $220 for the Balmar SC 200. The Balmar is supposed to be "smarter"????
Balmar SG200 is supposed to learn the battery and adjust itself according to the battery health so that the readings are accurate. Victron (602 at least) does not compensate for battery aging. You have to periodically adjust settings in the Victron as the battery ages to maintain accurate readings.
Z50":jz6jo0r2 said:yes the inverter does have an automatic transfer switch. I have 225AH battery bank.
OK, then you wire the inverter input in series with the outlets you want to run. It would be best to have its own 20 amp breaker in, and then the "outlets" out.
225 AM battery gives 112 usable amp hours. Yes, the Victron does not account for aging. I have never felt this was an issue, since I am conservative with the amount of discharge. (Even with the Li batteries where you can take down to 10% State of Charge, I rarely run down more than 50%. But that allows about 90 to 100 amp hours of use.