Windless
- Thread starter Tug
- Start date
Rick from Maine
New member
I can't tell ya how good it works, yet. I was lured by the sale price to buy one ( $439 on sale at defender last February). I am presently installing it. Figure on about $700 to buy the wiring & connections, new bow anchor roller, new anchor chain & rope, fittings, and epoxy stuff ( unless you already have 1/2" line). I can't use my old Fortress anchor, but I have a claw anchor that should work.
The installation instructions were not clear enough for me ( an anal retentive nuclear engineer), so I mocked up the whole installation in my cellar to make sure things worked before I installed it on Hunky Dory. Good thing I did. The template at the back of the manual is not to scale ( doesn't work). You will have to make your own template, or I could send you the one I made by e-mail, but your printer may change things. Also you want to mock up electrically to ensure you get the wiring right as only a schematic is provided, not a good wiring diagram.
After the mock up, installation is going OK. It was scary cutting a 4" hole in the deck. I've sealed all holes with marine-Tex. I noticed that the fasteners under my bow cleat were rusty, so I pulled them ( also had to remove the cleat to give room for the saber saw). I've now sealed those holes too and remounted with heavy bedding.
I am taking a risk with my installation. I used the "less than 1/2" fore deck thickness instructions" even though my fore deck is close to 3/4" thick. That's because if you use their > 1/2" deck thickness instructions, you have to cut a larger hole for the rope/chain, and use an aluminum "performance plate" that would not be waterproof on our fore decks due to the non skid pattern. I'll let ya know how that works out in a couple weeks when I complete sea trials.
Rick from Maine
The installation instructions were not clear enough for me ( an anal retentive nuclear engineer), so I mocked up the whole installation in my cellar to make sure things worked before I installed it on Hunky Dory. Good thing I did. The template at the back of the manual is not to scale ( doesn't work). You will have to make your own template, or I could send you the one I made by e-mail, but your printer may change things. Also you want to mock up electrically to ensure you get the wiring right as only a schematic is provided, not a good wiring diagram.
After the mock up, installation is going OK. It was scary cutting a 4" hole in the deck. I've sealed all holes with marine-Tex. I noticed that the fasteners under my bow cleat were rusty, so I pulled them ( also had to remove the cleat to give room for the saber saw). I've now sealed those holes too and remounted with heavy bedding.
I am taking a risk with my installation. I used the "less than 1/2" fore deck thickness instructions" even though my fore deck is close to 3/4" thick. That's because if you use their > 1/2" deck thickness instructions, you have to cut a larger hole for the rope/chain, and use an aluminum "performance plate" that would not be waterproof on our fore decks due to the non skid pattern. I'll let ya know how that works out in a couple weeks when I complete sea trials.
Rick from Maine
patrick and linda
New member
can't comment on this unit but will share a story regarding my last windlass system. it was installed in my 2000 carver 356 aft cabin. the windlass worked well, however the rode was all chain and when retrieving the anchor the chain would pile up in the anchor locker, to the point where it would actually stop the windlass from bringing in additional chain. when this occurred my first mate would go below and using a stick, knock the pile of chain down so i could bring in more chain, always happened at the most inopportune time. on another outing, water somehow got into the motor, messed up the electrical bushings and i had to hand crank 150' of chain. i would never do all chain again for several reason's, if you're anchored and the anchor gets stuck, good luck cutting the chain, second, i was anchored, out of the channel, a down bound barge experiencing steerage problems was being escorted by the uscg, with very little notice i was force to pull the anchor and move, like right now, fortunately, the anchor came right up, although i was prepared to cut and run if need be, (different boat than the carver, had rope for the rode). never forgot that situation. rope, for rode, for me!
good luck with your install
pat
ps: only good thing about having all that chain was great ballast for the bow!
good luck with your install
pat
ps: only good thing about having all that chain was great ballast for the bow!
Another issue related to the piling up of all chain rodes, is that of scrambling all chain rodes--and the "pile of chain" tips over, and you are pulling from the bottom and jam up the line going out.
If you are concerned about cutting chain--there are two solutions--both of which I used on my long distance cruising boats. One was bolt cutters which would easily cut 5/16 or 3/8 HT chain. The second was the end of the chain was secured by multiple passes of 1/4" line thru the last link, and then dead ended to a pad eye in the anchor locker. When the chain had all run out, you could cut the 1/4" line and the chain would be free. I would suggest putting a fender on the end of the chain. I had to search for two chains which I had cut when I had to "cut and run" in the middle of a dark and stormy night. I found both set ups of anchoring grear. Good motivation--since there was considerable chain and 75 lb anchors on the end!
As for the piling up--it depends on the configuration of both the anchor locker and the placement of the windlass. Usually these problems can be solved. Often in larger boats one ends up with two anchor lockers, where there was one.
Maxwell has a very good reputation for windlasses, so the RC 500 should be a good product.
If you are concerned about cutting chain--there are two solutions--both of which I used on my long distance cruising boats. One was bolt cutters which would easily cut 5/16 or 3/8 HT chain. The second was the end of the chain was secured by multiple passes of 1/4" line thru the last link, and then dead ended to a pad eye in the anchor locker. When the chain had all run out, you could cut the 1/4" line and the chain would be free. I would suggest putting a fender on the end of the chain. I had to search for two chains which I had cut when I had to "cut and run" in the middle of a dark and stormy night. I found both set ups of anchoring grear. Good motivation--since there was considerable chain and 75 lb anchors on the end!
As for the piling up--it depends on the configuration of both the anchor locker and the placement of the windlass. Usually these problems can be solved. Often in larger boats one ends up with two anchor lockers, where there was one.
Maxwell has a very good reputation for windlasses, so the RC 500 should be a good product.
I ended up ordering the Maxwell Freedom-500... for $ 449.99...sweet. I bought my Marine tinned Battery cable at Genuindealz.com ..prices were great and there is free delivery.Is there any reason why i cannot wire my Windlass to my Perko Battery Switch....i have it set up that i can start the engine and run accessories from either battery. Tug
I will install the circuit breaker as close to the Perko switch ..( within six feet )..as possible. Not sure of this....do i connect the positive cable ..( wire )..that came from the Windlass..thru the circuit breaker to the common ground of the Perko Switch and than the negative cable..( wire )..that came from the Windlass ..thru the circuit breaker to the negative terminal post of either of my two batteries.Thanks Tug