Windlass v700 lewmar - jammed

K

krc

Member
Somehow I jammed up the windlass and had to manually pull up the anchor yesterday. I got back to the dock and no amount of pulling or using the "star" winch handle got this thing moving in any significant degree. I didn't blow a breaker - it just jammed. The pictures are below.

Anyone have an idea on a good approach"? Maybe take the block off that has the flat head screws to get at the jammed area? Maybe a longer lever arm on the star point?


windlass1.thumb.jpg
windlass2.thumb.jpg
 
It looks as if this is near where the rope is spliced to the chain. The line is pretty chewed up at this point. I would just cut this segment out, and resplcie the chain to some fresher rope. Maybe even end for end the anchor line which I do every few years anyway. Your windlass manual (on the internet if you don't have it) shows a good 3 strand to chain splice. I believe for that wheel, you want 1/4" G 40/43 HT chain. I like US chain--ARCO or Campbell.

The Vertical axis windlass has to have significant "fall" for the chain, and line to fall below the windless/deck. In this windlass case, it needs 12" below the deck to the top of the line or chain. I like to use 8 plait 1/2" nylon, US manufacture. The horizontal axis does not require this increased "fall", For small boats I suggest the horizontal axis, as it is much less likely to have this type of jam.

If you don't want to cut and resplice, I would back the clutch all of the way off. This will allow the combination rope chain gypsy wheel to be removed. Instructions:

7.2 Gypsy replacement/service
• Check electric cables for damage. Repair/renew as required.
• Strip the above deck components, clean and lightly grease.
• Check motor/gearbox for corrosion, clean and repaint with a suitable marine grade oil based enamel paint.
• Remove electric motor cover and blow dust away from brushes using foot pump or similar taking care not to breathe any dust.
• Remove the Gypsy Drive Cap (31), anti-clockwise using the clutch operating lever.
• Withdraw the Drive washer (21)
• Remove the Socket Head Cap Screw (40) that retains the Stripper using a (5mm) Allen Wrench.
• Pull the Control Arm (30) back to clear the Gypsy
• Remove the Gypsy Assembly (37).
Click to expand...
 
KRC,
Just replaced the same windless on my boat recently. Mine wouldn’t move and the breaker was not the problem. All of the troubleshooting information from the manufacturer stated that I had a bad motor. Ordered a motor and once received, took the windless apart to replace the motor. You have to open the gearbox, as part of the motor removal… the gearbox had broken bits, so that was the issue. Because of age, I decided not to replace gearbox parts and replaced the windless, with the same model.
First step that I would take on yours, would be to follow Dr. Bob’s advice. The splice will absolutely jam the windless.
PS, now I have a motor that I don’t need…
 
I recently had a similar problem with the windlass on my big boat. The rode jammed at the line to chain splice, the chain backed up (doubled up), bending the pin that holds the finger that puts pressure on the chain or line to keep it in the gypsy. We ordered the part expedited mail from the East Coast U.S. supplier, but it apparently got caught up in customs while we waited 10 days in Desolation Sound for it to ship to Campbell River. Never showed.

But here is what I deduced caused the problem. I recently changed the rode from 3-strand to 8-plait as it stores better in the chain locker. My 8-plait has a strange hand in that it snags like a nylon stocking. Pull it across the dock and you can feel in dragging and see little fibers pull loose. That apparently doesn't effect the strength BUT that snagging can also happen inside the windlass. The down tube on my windlass had some tiny casting roughness that caught on the 8-plait fibers, holding it up just enough for the gypsy to try to send chain down next to it, causing a jam.

My McGiver fix was to line the windlass casting with Gorilla tape and create a smooth surface. Works fine, but probably not a permanent solution. I'm not sure there is a way to splice my rode without there being some residual fuzziness.
 
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