Windlass 700 Pro Fish puzzle

G

Gypsy

New member
We recently bought a 2007 C-Dory 25' Cruiser, which we been wanting for long and are in the process of detailing, washing, cleaning, etc, everything. My question is about our Windlass a horizontal Lewmar 700 with the Pro Fish accessory. It works well electrically and if I use it manually to lift the anchor (all in my driveway still), that is counter-clockwise it spins with the Lewmar tool but if I try to spin it clockwise it won't move.

Does somebody have an idea of this issue? Do I have to open, clean and grease the windlass? I have seen a youtube video about it and was trying to avoid having to disassemble it and changing parts, etc.

Thanks,

Pepe
 
For starters here is the manual if it is not aboard:

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/u ... nglish.pdf

Second here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lc1_9Lbqg1c

As I recollect the "tool" is a 3/8" socket adaptor--and I use an extended socket wrench--which makes pulling it up faster and easier--if for some reason you have to do it manually.

What this does in the center, is to tighten the clutch--if you loosen the clutch, it will let the anchor down, by releasing the clutches.

I don't currently have the Pro Fish (I did on the Tom Cat)--I preferred to use the manual down--but the free fall, is quicker in deep water.

3.2 Use of clutch on Pro-Series
To tighten the clutch - using the Installation Tool & Clutch Lever supplied, rotate the clutch nut (1) clockwise, this will grip the gypsy, effectively locking it to the windlass gear train.
To slacken the clutch - turn the nut anticlockwise, this will free the gypsy allowing it to turn independently of the windlass gear train. Always remove the handle after use.
3.3 Use of clutch on Pro-Fish freefall
Press DOWN button for 2 seconds until the anchor is under
freefall. (Note: Pressing the DOWN button for 5+ seconds will result in a longer clutch re-engagement time during the next UP command). If using a rope/chain rode, motor astern to create the desired scope.
Once scope has been created press the UP button continuously until freefall stops. It normally takes several seconds to fully re-engage the internal clutch mechanism, locking the windlass. Failure to do this could result in rope/chain creeping out. Press the UP button continuously to recover the anchor.
To ensure continuous freefall operation using rope/chain rode, it is important that the rope is FREE from knots or hockles. To avoid this problem we recommend periodically paying out the rode whilst motoring astern (in deep water) to unwind and knots or hockles that may be present.
3.4 Letting go under gravity
Insert the clutch lever into the clutch nut (1) and turn it clockwise to ensure that the clutch is tight. Release any independent anchor locks. If it is safe to do so, pull back on the clutch lever until the anchor and rode begin to pay out. Control the rate of descent of the anchor by pushing the clutch lever forwards. When sufficient rode has been paid out, fully tighten the clutch nut once again.
3.5 Letting go under power
Release any independent anchor locks. If it is safe to do so, let go under power by operating a down control. Release the control when sufficient rode has been paid out.
Isolate the windlass electrically and tie rode off to a secure fixing point prior to carrying out operation 3.6.
3.6 Change Pro-Fish to power down mode
To engage, simply pull out the locking button, press in the plunger on the rim of the gypsy cap with the installation wrench and push in the locking button.
To disengage, pull out the locking button.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Bob for your answer, we do have the manuals and I have seen several videos about the problem. I went to the manufacturers site - wrote an email today to technical support, but found a much better manual about it in 6 languages, with excellent drawings and detailed instructions.

I think I figured out the problem and since I have the boat on the driveway and not really releasing the anchor I think I was getting confused by what the spinning of the cap meant. I will inform you again after I do some testing tomorrow in my driveway.

Also it is a 1/2" socket what does the job. :)

It is very nice to see how you always try to help a lot of members, your comments I have read to many people, have always been solid information. I definitely appreciate your input.

Pepe
 
I didn't have the boat open--thanks for correcting me on the size of the socket wrench. Yes, you have to have the weight of anchor/ chain for it to pay out.

It can go fast, in deep water. You then have to power up--to set the pawls, and take any load on the chain. (In the small boats, it is rare to have all chain, and the rope may "skip" as it pays out.

Thank you for the kind words.
 
If your using a 1/2" socket wrench to turn the clutch than you don't have the Pro Fish option.

If however I'm wrong, regardless of how the windless performs I would recommend performing the maintanace deminstrated on this YouTube video, it's specifically for the Pro Fish
https://youtu.be/EYo31dDaSXc

Last year I had problems getting mine to release and drop the anchor, found this video, followed the easy steps, now it works flawlessly.
All the steps in the video can be performed without removing the windless.
 
Just wanted to thank Bob and Jay, for your input. The cap was stuck, I used more force (after viewing the explicit manual downloaded from Lewmar) and it released, then I disassembled the gypsy (very easy) and cleaned it and greased it. My windlass works like a charm now. Thanks guys.

Jay I do have the Pro Fish and it does use the 1/2" Lewmar tool or 1/2" rachet.
 
Resurrecting this thread. I have the profish 700 that I installed on C-Traveler shortly after purchasing the boat. I've never used the automatic system that lets it free fall, due to how the mechanism operates. However, I find that after several months of use, the gypsy becomes almost impossible to loosen. I have a 1/2" breaker bar that is just about stripping out the star hole that is used to manually turn the gypsy. Does anybody know if there is actually an 8 point (or perhaps it's 6 points. I need to look at it closer.) hex socket that fits better in that space? IF so, what size do I need? Colby
 
It should be an 8 point socket. Harken makes an adaptor for sailboat winches. I know that that same winch handle would work on my vertical axis windlass on my Cal 46 and the Symbol 42' motor yacht. I am not positive that the "star" fitting is the same size as the standard sailboat winch and the larger windlasss.

How often do you tear down the winch, and lube the gears and clutch plates?
 
How often do you tear down the winch, and lube the gears and clutch plates?
Click to expand...

Probably not as often as I should. Last time I had it apart was last year. I don't know if I've ever greased it, but it's less than 3 years old. Seems that in normal operation it tightens itself up. The free fall operation (I don't use) works off a plunger that ratchets against a stop block. When hitting down on the switch, the plunger catches the flat edge, thus loosening the clutch to allow the free fall. When you retrieve then, the plunger continually hits against the ramp side of that block (making all kinds of noise) and the clutch tightens up from the gypsy turning. I keep the plunger in the manual mode, but apparently the gypsy clutch continues to tighten with each use when retrieving the anchor. :cry: Colby
 
Got it off. I should have just tried using the free fall plunger earlier, but wasn't sure it would work. I did have to pry the little pin out that holds the plunger in. Guess that's why the supplied Lewmar wrench has a small box end wrench with small grove that fits over that pin. Once I released the plunger and hit the switch to drop anchor, it spun the gypsy and with the plunger catching on the stop block, the capstan drive cap was loosened. I took the cap off, and removed the gypsy along with the guard and stop block. I had not greased the gypsy before, as I was not aware that it should be greased. (Thinking about old auto clutch plates where you don't want grease on them as you don't want them to slip....) I watched a youtube video that showed both sides of the gypsy getting greased. So I cleaned it up (looked like a very thin layer of grease came on it), greased it, and also greased the plunger release and access hole. I also learned that the bit I'd like to get is called a double square drive bit. However, as of yet I have not been able to locate a place that sales one in the size of 1/2".

This is a photo of the Gypsy and Drive Cap.
IMG_3442.jpg

This is a photo that shows the plunger and pin on the side of the cap that holds the plunger in, or allows it to pop out. For anyone thinking about purchasing the ProFish, vs. the regular windlass, the ProFish free fall works by that plunger in the out position, hitting the square face of a stop block when you hit the down position on the switch, and that in turn loosens the cap and allows the gypsy to spin or free fall the anchor. When you press the up position of the switch, the plunger ratchets on the ramp side of that stop block, making one helluva racket, while the cap self tightens from the turning of the gypsy and weight of the anchor. (The plunger is in the manual position, so the winch can be powered out and in.)

IMG_3443.jpg
 
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