While out of the slip, should I?

W

Westie

New member
Hi guys,
I pulled my boat out today for the first time since Dec 30th. Got her on the trailer without any issue thanks to high tide and a friends big truck!

My boat is always in the slip but I'm moving her next week so I have seven days of access to the hull and engines. Couple questions for the forum:

1) should I add permatrims (tomcat 255 with Suzuki DF140s)?
2) the starboard engine would not go up high enough to rest on the tilt pegs (likely incorrect terminology); port was fine. Do I simply need to add some tilt fluid? Is this a challenge? I have noticed that starboard lags just a little when I synch them all up or down.
3) the hull was scummy and had more veg than I anticipated. I use the boat nearly every weekend so I though I was blowing it off. I have ablative bottom paint and fish in NorCal; water temp around 60F at most. When do I know its time for a new bottom paint job? I bought it used last oct and the bottom looked awesome.

Any advice is always welcome.
 
My experience with the Permatrims, with the 150's is that it did not add a lot. The lower planing speed was decreased (a goal), but there was a lot of wake over the side of the Armstrong bracket when trying to plane at 10 knots. Top speed was slightly decreased, but not significant. The issue would be with the 140's, which are the same block size as the 115, not the 150's, is how easy is it to get on a plane. If it is slow, or lagging, then I would add. Otherwise, I would not. (I own a 140 on my Caracal Cat, and am gong to put a Permatrim on that engine. )

The bottom paint: I get 3 years on a new 3 coat application of Vivid. You should clean the bottom, every 6 months, even in the cooler water. I found that I did fine when I was moving all of the time in the inland Passage, but during the winter in Sequim, I had to have the bottom scrubbed twice (that was back when it was allowed). I would pressure wash, or clean the bottom with green scotch pads, or terry cloth. If there is good amount of paint present, put her back in, and re-check next year.

I would certainly check the fluid--and add it. It certainly should come up to the level of the "lock". Also there is an adjustment for the amount that the engine will trim up. Your symptoms sound like low fluid.
 
Bob - thanks for the advice.

To check the trim and tilt level, I understand I simply need to remove the nut and check to see if oil is visible. Since I cant engage the lock, do I need to figure out a way to ensure the engine doesn't come down when I remove the nut?

I've watched some youtubes and cant seem to figure this out. It looks like you can bleed the air by going up/down a few times with the nut off, thus its got me thinking that fluid wont shoot out if the lock isnt engaged.

thoughts?
 
I don't have my DF140 with me, and the shop manual is with the boat at home…but you should be able to bypass the fluid, and raise the motor manually--another person/chain hoist/jack? for safety!

In this PDF manual supplement there is bleeding and filling instruction:

http://faq.клубневод.рф/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/DF140supply.pdf

page 24/25 etc.
 
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