I just installed an inspection window in my water tank. Here's how it looks:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
(How do you get the picture to appear here?)
I found out a few things that fellow TC owners (at least) might find useful to know.
First, after making the opening in the tank top I saw what appeared to be about an 8" crack in the bottom of the tank. This turned out to be a strip of brown slime/sludge/paste about 1/16" wide adhering to the bottom of the tank. I scraped it off and fished out the pieces with an aquarium net. I have no idea what this stuff is. It didn't seem to have diffused into the water. It has survived quite a few tank fills. I'm wondering if it could be organic or maybe some manufacturing residue.
Second, when the water pump stops delivering water, there is still about 9 gallons remaining in the tank. This is because the tank slopes downwards towards the back of the boat and the tank outlet is centered at the forward end of the tank, in it's floor. The outlet is just a hole to which the outlet hose is connected with almost no penetration into the tank. The tank's air inlet is at the aft end of the tank in a corner. (The tank measures about 27" x 27" on top and is about a foot deep.) This residual water has implications for "sanitizing" the tank with bleach - you can't sufficiently dilute the strong bleach with a single (non) flush of the tank. Also,if you want to winterize the cold water system by draining everything, you can't do it without getting into the tank to pump it out completely. And although the nominal tank capacity is 30 gallons its practical capacity is more like 20 gallons
.
The inspection deck plate is 6" diameter. That's enough to get inside the tank for cleaning and pumping out. The fact that the factory hatch can't be opened more than about 45 degrees (in the picture it is almost fully open) because of interference from the floor above it is quite a nuisance and I wonder if there is a simple remedy.
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
(How do you get the picture to appear here?)
I found out a few things that fellow TC owners (at least) might find useful to know.
First, after making the opening in the tank top I saw what appeared to be about an 8" crack in the bottom of the tank. This turned out to be a strip of brown slime/sludge/paste about 1/16" wide adhering to the bottom of the tank. I scraped it off and fished out the pieces with an aquarium net. I have no idea what this stuff is. It didn't seem to have diffused into the water. It has survived quite a few tank fills. I'm wondering if it could be organic or maybe some manufacturing residue.
Second, when the water pump stops delivering water, there is still about 9 gallons remaining in the tank. This is because the tank slopes downwards towards the back of the boat and the tank outlet is centered at the forward end of the tank, in it's floor. The outlet is just a hole to which the outlet hose is connected with almost no penetration into the tank. The tank's air inlet is at the aft end of the tank in a corner. (The tank measures about 27" x 27" on top and is about a foot deep.) This residual water has implications for "sanitizing" the tank with bleach - you can't sufficiently dilute the strong bleach with a single (non) flush of the tank. Also,if you want to winterize the cold water system by draining everything, you can't do it without getting into the tank to pump it out completely. And although the nominal tank capacity is 30 gallons its practical capacity is more like 20 gallons

The inspection deck plate is 6" diameter. That's enough to get inside the tank for cleaning and pumping out. The fact that the factory hatch can't be opened more than about 45 degrees (in the picture it is almost fully open) because of interference from the floor above it is quite a nuisance and I wonder if there is a simple remedy.