Mike...":6451tmfx said:
. . .
Would you say that the seat as well made, but that the mount was poorly made? Did you abandon the slider because of the shoddy workmanship?
. . .
Now that you have it installed, how high is the top of the cushion from the top of the cabinet below?
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mike
Mike,
The basic seat appears to be well made. I'm no expert. Time will tell.
The most significant workmanship problem was the bolt hole shown in my previous post. That hole is one of four holes on the bottom of the seat that receive bolts for attaching the seat to the slider, or to whatever other mounting device you use.
I think I could have fixed the stripped bolt hole and still used the slider, but for a number of reasons I decided not to. First, the usable for and aft range of the slider would be only an inch or two at best while seated in the chair - There just is not much room to play with between the sink cabinet wall and the knee space under the steering wheel. (The slider would have allowed moving the seat forward 8 inches or so when the seat was not being used, but that didn't seem worth the remaining hassles - read on.) Second, an additional calculation I had not accounted for is the release bar for operating the slider. The bar is parallel to the front edge of the seat, and actually drops slightly lower than the bottom of the slider itself. In order to allow any kind of finger space to grab the bar, the seat would have to be raised too high for steering wheel clearance. ( Again, I considered modifying the bar, but ...) Third, the slider rails are spaced far enough apart that in order to keep the seat centered on the wheel, the inboard slider would have required an extension of the mounting platform and and perhaps an additional set of holes and bolts.
In the end, I decided a solid, stationary mounting sounded pretty good.
With my prototype mounting set up, the seat top is about 7 inches above the cabinet top. (It's a little arbitrary measuring exactly the height of a contoured, bolstered, sloped surface - I measure from the top of the front center edge of an unloaded seat.) I've got about 2.5 inches of framing between the bottom of the seat and the top of the cabinet, which means I could still lower the seat by about 1.5 inches. I could probably also raise the seat by about an inch without eliminating all space between my legs and the bottom of the steering wheel.
I'm pretty comfortable with the way it is now. If I make any further adjustment, it might be down and back just a tad, but I'm going to use it for a while before I decide whether to change anything.
You've got a different boat, and maybe a different set of driver dimensions, so I don't know how useful my experience is, but I hope this gives you some things to think about.
Bill