What size hatch for anchor locker

P

pcg

Member
The anchor locker on my 1999 22' Cruiser is open to the berth area. I'd like to close it off and add a hatch as I understand the newer models have. Since I have yet to finish my project boat and put it in the water, I have no experience using it and don't have a clue how large the access opening to the locker should be. I'll be installing a horizontal windlass if that makes a difference.

I'd like suggestions for the size of the opening. As large as possible? Or would that be too big?
Also, what is the end of the rode secured to? There is nothing in my locker for securing the rode.

Thank you.
 
I have a SS eye bolt attached to the back side of the U bolt on the bow (The one use for the trailer winch). If that is not an option for you, you could add a d-ring somewhere.
As for the cover, I also wanted to cover it up when I first got the boat but I'm getting use to it open and I also find that it is nice to get in there to spread the rode as it tend to pile up as you retrieve it.
 
I made a Sunbrella cover for the open part of the locker. Also as C Wolfe, used an eye nut on the inside threads of the bow eye. I make the "attachment" to the boat, with several passes of 1/8 "Dacron line to a tight eye splice at the bitter end of the anchor rode. This makes it easy to cut the bitter end free if it becomes necessary.

Below is a photo of the canvas. I sewed a sleeve in the top of the cloth, and then ran a 1/2" dowel through it--with 1/8" Dacron lines to the eye hooks above.

DSC01718.sized.jpg

I agree that the horizontal axis windless works best on the C Dory. On several of my larger boats where the anchor locker was much deeper (more fall for the chain) and I had 200 to 400 feet of chain, I used a vertical axis windlass.

Probably a 12" x 18" hatch cover would work. This is about the size used in some other C Dory boats. I have not seen a 22 with this, but no reason it could not be made this way. The 25 and Tom Cat 255 both have a hatch.

At the upper left is the hatch on the 25 "Thataway" to the anchor locker. There are back packing pads against the hull for insulation, which is the blue material over the lower part of the hatch.
DSC00409.sized.jpg
 
On my boat, I just made a panel from 1/4" PVC sheet that covers the whole opening to the anchor locker. It is screwed in along the bottom (to the existing locker lip and along the top to wood pieces epoxied to the overhear. There is no hatch. If I need access to the locker, the whole panel is removed.

I think my boat has an eye in the anchor locker that has always been there. I don't use it so I can remember for sure. My anchor rode is not attached to the boat at the bitter end.

There is a trade off between having the anchor rode loose and the possibility of dropping it overboard vs. having it attached and needing to keep something at hand to cut the rode should disconnecting it from the boat quickly be required. I could see attaching some small floats to the bitter end in case the rode goes over the side. The floats would probably have to be a few in-line because they'd have to be small enough to go through the hawserhole.
 
ssobol":3jzjbii2 said:
There is a trade off between having the anchor rode loose and the possibility of dropping it overboard vs. having it attached and needing to keep something at hand to cut the rode should disconnecting it from the boat quickly be required.
Click to expand...
Thanks for brining that to my attention.
 
pcg":33v7o2ib said:
ssobol":33v7o2ib said:
There is a trade off between having the anchor rode loose and the possibility of dropping it overboard vs. having it attached and needing to keep something at hand to cut the rode should disconnecting it from the boat quickly be required.
Click to expand...
Thanks for brining that to my attention.
Click to expand...

This is why we have the 1/8" line connecting the bitter end, with multiple passes, which allows the cut of one 1/8" line to free the full bitter end--much easier to cut in a quick pass in an emergency. Also this leaves a tail of the small line to tie to any fender you have, which is far better than a small float to mark the end of the anchor rode.
 
thataway":3fi6wdn3 said:
pcg":3fi6wdn3 said:
ssobol":3fi6wdn3 said:
There is a trade off between having the anchor rode loose and the possibility of dropping it overboard vs. having it attached and needing to keep something at hand to cut the rode should disconnecting it from the boat quickly be required.
Click to expand...
Thanks for brining that to my attention.
Click to expand...
This is why we have the 1/8" line connecting the bitter end, with multiple passes, which allows the cut of one 1/8" line to free the full bitter end....
Click to expand...
Excellent idea! I am learning so much here!
 
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