Water tank leak on 2011 CD-25

Avidmagnum12

Avidmagnum12

Member
Love my "new to me" 2011 CD-25 but as I was checking out the systems I noticed that the boats bilge was taking on water......and it was still on the trailer! I had filled the fresh water tank that is now located in the center of the stern. After a close examination I found the leak at the spot in the tank where the outflow 90 fitting turns in. The spot where it turns in has a crack.

Now ...how to fix it? No room to get the tank all the way out to replace it.
Thinking that i could epoxy it on the outside and put a hose clamp around the area. (It comes out about 3/4 inch)

Any better ideas?

What epoxy to use?

Thanks

Tom Schulke
2011 CD-25 "My Girl"
 
I went looking for photos--and all I found was the 22…My 25 had the water tank forward, and the holding tank aft--probably near where yours is? How much access do you have?

I have successfully repaired poly water tanks in two ways. One is with plastic welding. Harbor freight has a plastic welder--this appears to be air and electric power fed. I have not used this specific item.

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/pl ... lders.html

Techspan has a video, and on the same page you should see some other ways to do plastic welding:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvV9a3lEe2g

I got my start doing "plastic welding" repairing ski bases--and then used some of that same technology to plastic water tanks.

The other which works, is to rough up the plastic, and then use an epoxy such as G Flex, and some 4oz glass cloth. especially where you can get access, all around, you should be able to glue and warp. You may have to wrap this with some fine line (like monofiliment or fishing line) to keep the cloth in place as the epoxy sets up.

JB Weld is making a "plastic weld in a syringe" I tried some of this with a repair a couple of months ago, and it seems to be holding up well. The plastic weld putty says does not work on Polyethylene, or polypropylene. There is no such disclaimer on the liquid in the syringe. I would still use some fiberglass reinforcement, and be sure and rough up the base well.

Most of the fittings on the tanks are spun in place. The heat of the spinning, welds the plastics. When we were building our boats, we got the blank tanks, and then spun in the el's and straight pipes into the tanks.

A picture of the crack would help.
 
Thanks Bob for the ideas.

I think I'll try the JB weld liquid on the outside with a hose clamp around the 3/4 inch protrusion on the tank. I was going to take a photo but there was too much water. Did not want to find out if my I-phone was waterproof. I'll try to take photos tomorrow when I attempt the repair. I pumped and sponged out the water.

I have an idea on how it cracked. The previous owner had it made ready for winter at a dealer. After they reinstalled the 90 degree fitting i think they put too much pressure on it when pressing the 1/2 inch line on the barbed end. I plan on bracing the fitting once I reinstall the 1/2 inch line.

The access is through the 2 back hatches. Not bad but only one hand at a time.

More to come.....Tom
2004 CD22 Commuter Out2C sold
20011 CD25 "My Girl"
 
Let us know how JB Weld does on polyethylene. I haven't used it there before though I've used for everything else. I'd look for something made just for the plastic in the tank.

Boris
 
I would favor reinforcement with fiberglass, rather than a hose clamp, if that is possible. As I recollect the J B Weld Plastic liquid is a fast setting compound--and It may be difficult. but you want the epoxy in contact with the fitting material & with the reinforcement as well. Quickly put one layer of the liquid not he fitting, then wrap the joint with thin strip of cloth or tape, and then more JB, and finally a hose clamp to hold it in place.

Was this fitting screwed into a threaded plug fitting spun into the tank wall?
 
Thanks for all the advise. The leak is gone! I could not find the liquid JB weld at my local Fleet Farm store.....soooo....I used the JB water weld that they did have. It does set up fast but I had the clamp ready.

Noticed that when I reinstalled the 90 degree fitting that it made contact on its tip when I turned it in. That caused a pressure on the tank fitting. Cut 1/4 inch off and it went in nice.

Ive posted some photos in the last folder in my out2C album. Should help clarify my ramblings.

I should not have to remove the fitting to winterize the boat....that's the nice thing about taking the boat to Florida in the winter.

Now that everything is right its off to the Wolf River here in Wisconsin for the first run for us with "My Girl".

Thanks Again!

Tom Schulke

2004 CD22 Commuter sold
2011 CD25 "My Girl"
 
The photos do help a lot in visualizing the issues. The female threaded part was "spun welded" by heat of the friction of spinning the fitting into the thickened wall of the tank. It looks as though there is not much room for the 90 degree "L" to turn and seat well into the fitting.

Since the repair is only on the female fitting in the tank, you might consider "gluing it in place" with G poxy next time you have it out, if you have reason to take it out in the future. This might make the repair stronger in the long run, if necessary.
 
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