V700 Windlass Wiring Puzzle

M

mcc272

New member
I have reviewed the windlass wiring instructions that came with my V700 and they sure puzzle me. The windlass is supplied with a 35A circuit breaker which is to be installed in the cable between the battery and the toggle switch. Based on the total wire run on my boat, I am using 6 ga. wire. I can get crimp connectors for 6 ga. that have holes for #10 screws so I can connect to the toggle switch. So far, so good. Then I get to the part of the wiring between the switch and the windlass itself. The windlass has a black and a red wire and the wiring diagram in the instructions calls for a 3A fuse in each lead. That is the part that makes no sense to me for several reasons. First, the circuit breaker is 35A and the West Marine catalogue says the draw is 40A. It would seem to me that a 3A fuse in the main leads to the motor would be completely undersized for this application even if one could figure out how to wire a 3A fuse into 6 ga. wiring. My inclination is to leave both of the 3A fuses out as the circuit is protected by the 35A breaker on the battery end of the positive feed.

For those interested and looking at the wiring diagrams in their owner's manuals or on line, the diagram to which I am referring is 2.4 V700 Wiring Diagram (toggle switch).

Am I missing something? I have written Lewmar USA to see if that can explain this to me.

Jim
 
I'm sure thats a misprint if you were using a contactor you would use a 3 amp fuse in the control circuit but not the motor feed circuit. The 3 amp fuse would blow instantly Wefing installed my windlass and it has no such fuse.
 
Thanks. I always assume that the manufacturer knows more than I do and that there may be a reason even if I can't figure it out. On this one, I was sure that a 3A fuse would blow in an instant and saw that it was what was used to protect the various controllers on a contactor setup. However, nice to know that Lewmar says to ignore it.

Thanks again.

Jim
 
One suggestion. Place a quick disconnect close to the motor. I have had mine jam the rode so hard that I had to lift the windless to be able to pry it loose. Being able to disconnect the power wire helps.

Roger
 
Lewmar responded this morning confirming that the 3A fuses are not required. The explanation was pretty interesting so here it is:

"For one edition of our owner’s manual, when it was created, the creators used the little block that represented the 3 amp fuse as a butt connector as well and didn’t take the title out of the picture."

Roger --

Great idea regarding the ability to break the cables near the motor. Sooner or later, you are going to have to remove the windlass. I am not partial to butt connectors so I had been planning to connect the smaller factory wiring on the windlass to the cables at a terminal block up forward. That will do the trick but thanks for the suggestion.

Jim
 
Hey Jim... Sorry I missed this post... but, you got there anyway.

The company is great with their quick response times. Looks like your first post was over the weekend, and we are not really even into a good full business day on Monday... and you got a response.

Pictures are worth a 1000 words....but, this goes to show that you can not alway believe what we see. Interesting. :mrgreen:

Glad you are enjoying your boat. Enjoyed our many chats in the process.

Byrdman
 
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