kayakbriang
New member
Installing a v700. Probably a dumb question but the clamping plate goes below deck and not above deck correct? Can't find a solid answer anywhere.
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v700 clamping plate
- Thread starter kayakbriang
- Start date
Yup, the plate goes below the fiberglass deck to distribute the load out over a much larger area than you would get with washers and nuts alone.
There are many hardware installation situations where a metal or other composition plate is a much better solution to distributing the load out than just washers and nuts.
These are sometimes referred to as "backing plates".
Often boat owners make up their own plates for such items as down rigger bases, handrails, ladders, swim steps, pot pullers, windlasses, rod holders, roof racks, and the like!
See the quote below from "The Hull Truth":
Default Backing Plates vs. Fender Washers
Backing plates be they metal or marine plywood are by far better than using large shoulder washers.
I have pushed sailboats around the oceans in years past, and can attest to the advantages of backing plates versus large shoulder washers.
A backing plate larger than the over-head mounted hardware or equipment distributes the load over a larger area, as opposed to pin-point stress.
An ideal installation is; backing plate, shoulder washer, lock washer, nut.
A backing-plate helps reduce possible twisty action in the face of a horizontal pulling stress and in a vertical stress distributes the stress first to the backing-plate versus directly to a pin-point area digging directly into the fibre-glass.
Some may say this is an over-kill, but, I can tell you from experience that when the shit-hits-the-fan you want to know that your boat take it. How many cleats pulled out of decks or stress cracks around windlass installation have you seen???
Chris-Craft - Seahawk
See: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... shers.html
Enjoy your C-Dory!
Joe. :teeth :thup
There are many hardware installation situations where a metal or other composition plate is a much better solution to distributing the load out than just washers and nuts.
These are sometimes referred to as "backing plates".
Often boat owners make up their own plates for such items as down rigger bases, handrails, ladders, swim steps, pot pullers, windlasses, rod holders, roof racks, and the like!
See the quote below from "The Hull Truth":
Default Backing Plates vs. Fender Washers
Backing plates be they metal or marine plywood are by far better than using large shoulder washers.
I have pushed sailboats around the oceans in years past, and can attest to the advantages of backing plates versus large shoulder washers.
A backing plate larger than the over-head mounted hardware or equipment distributes the load over a larger area, as opposed to pin-point stress.
An ideal installation is; backing plate, shoulder washer, lock washer, nut.
A backing-plate helps reduce possible twisty action in the face of a horizontal pulling stress and in a vertical stress distributes the stress first to the backing-plate versus directly to a pin-point area digging directly into the fibre-glass.
Some may say this is an over-kill, but, I can tell you from experience that when the shit-hits-the-fan you want to know that your boat take it. How many cleats pulled out of decks or stress cracks around windlass installation have you seen???
Chris-Craft - Seahawk
See: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... shers.html
Enjoy your C-Dory!
Joe. :teeth :thup
kayakbriang
New member
Thanks guys. Didn't make sense to put it on top of the deck but those schematics were trying to confuse me.
BE sure and fill the area around the cutout and where any bolts go, with epoxy. You don't want to "squeeze" an unprotected core of balsa! It will get wet, around the windlass, hole, and then eventually compress the core--and cause damage to the deck. I cut back about 1/4" around each of the bolt holes, and the main chain cutout on my windlass (Horizontal axis. I had a Vertical axis in the Cal 46, and made an aluminum plate 3/8" thick, covering about 3 sq feet under the deck, and incorporating the cleat, the chain stopper, and the first several bolts of the bow roller/pulpit.
kayakbriang
New member
I over drilled the stud holes and the filled with epoxy. Let it cure then redrillef for correct size. Did this with both windlass and bow roller. Main cut out all under cut and refilled with epoxy. Bedded with 4200 and additional applied to bolts and epoxy coated edges.