Two random questions: cleaning non-skid and frig replacement

W

Westie

New member
Hi
Two quick questions. My tomact started to show a mold in the non-skid exterior after I had it parked under a tree for too long. My fault! I’ve tried bar keepers friend and FSR. Both worked with a ton of elbow grease. I have it 90% cleaned but want to get all. Has anyone had luck with a pressure washer?

I thought I’d ask before lugging it out to the marina for the next round of cleaning. I’m not sure I can get the remaining spots without a more aggressive approach.

Also, my frig went out. Any advice on the replacement model?

I have read the awesome post from John on Cat O Mine. Just wondering if there are any new experiences. I have a Norcold model#DE351 I believe.

Thanks. [/list]
 
Try the pressure washer, but probably the mold will leave a staining on the glass that wont come off. A 50/50 bleach solution in a squirt bottle. Spray it on, let it sit for 15 minutes, wash it off. Don't spray it on anything you want to keep wax on, the bleach takes wax right off.
 
You may also want to try a product called Star brite (non skid Deck Cleaner) which I purchased from West Marine. It works well with dried and set-in fish blood stains on non-skid deck surfaces.
 
Hot soapy water with bleach. one or 2 cups of bleach in soapy water. Apply, apply, apply, and let the deck be wet for 30 min, rinse and let it sit in the sun for several days.
 
gary f":3hhnx3tg said:
You may also want to try a product called Star brite (non skid Deck Cleaner) which I purchased from West Marine. It works well with dried and set-in fish blood stains on non-skid deck surfaces.
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:thup :thup

Works easy and well. I do have a long bristle, nylon or plastic bristle, handled scrub brush, aahhhh..., somewhere, but the Starbrite works so good I rarely need the brush.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Pacificcoast101":944qxqls said:
I used Starbrite for years before trying the cheap toilet bowl cleaner method. The cheap version comes out whiter, especially the next day and depending on how dirty your boat is you may not need to scrub at all. The Works Toilet Bowl cleaner is available for $1,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_OYSHkFIWY
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I would wonder if "The Works" has chemical components that are detrimental to the gel coat.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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hardee":3v4m4x24 said:
(clipped)

I would wonder if "The Works" has chemical components that are detrimental to the gel coat.

Harvey
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"Question:

What Are the Main Ingredients in The Works Toilet Bowl Cleaner?

Quick Answer:

The main ingredients in The Works toilet bowl cleaner include hydrochloric acid, chlorine bleach, sodium lauryl sulphate and citric acid. The Works is designed to clean and sanitize toilet bowls.

The Works toilet bowl cleaner kills household germs and bacteria, such as salmonella and E-coli. It also removes stains caused by rust, lime scale and hard water. The Works is safe on plumbing, sewer and septic systems.

The Works was originally manufactured in Indiana and sold by door-to-door salesmen. They mixed the solution and then put it in clear plastic bottles, selling it out of the trunk of their cars."

Source: https://www.reference.com/home-garden/m ... 07e19a8db#
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Note: No reference as to safety when used on fiberglass or aluminum. Comments elsewhere include that it removes wax that has been applied to hulls, and to rinse it off after mild brushing within a short time period, say 5-10 minutes. I'd also recommend re-waxing the fiberglass to protect it after treating it with such a caustic cleaner. Be sure to wear gloves, keep it off your skin, out of your eyes, wear old clothes, shoes, etc., etc................
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Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Sea Wolf posted: What Are the Main Ingredients in The Works Toilet Bowl Cleaner?

Quick Answer: The main ingredients in The Works toilet bowl cleaner include hydrochloric acid, chlorine bleach, sodium lauryl sulphate and citric acid. The Works is designed to clean and sanitize toilet bowls.

Ack. I hope the salesman mixed those ingredients in the correct order, and with plenty of ventilation. And that anybody using this stuff wore a serious chlorine vapor mask. At least when the stuff was fresh. I am guessing that the sodium lauryl sulphate probably neutralized most of the sulfuric acid, producing a well buffered medium for the bleach ingredients. Otherwise, there would be a helacious quantity of chlorine gas released every time you opened the jug.

A sometime buddy, now deceased, claimed he could not get his dress shirts adequately bleached unless he squeezed half a lemon into the washing machine, full of water and shirts, just before adding half a cup of bleach and slamming the lid down!!! Egil died of other causes. Too tough for chlorine to get him. :wink: :wink:
 
Joe and Dave, Thanks for the reply. I am not a chemist, never wanted to be and rarely mix stuff in bottles with anything. I was a Respiratory Therapist for 28 years, and have dealt with folks who have had all kinds of respiratory tract burns from nasty stuff in bottles, smoke and particulates.

Breathing is a good habit, one we have developed to be fairly effective over time, and one I would kind of like to perpetuate.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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