Transducer mounting Board

Tug

New member
Is a transducer mounting board really necessary. I have a 3/4 inch one foot by two foot black piece of King Starboard that i can cut to fit and use that...but the transducer i want to mount has a small mounting bracket. Seems like over kill ...if i were to drill and seal carefully ( for the transducer mounting bracket )wouldn't it be just as waterproof. Thanks Tug
 
A mounting board is useful if you need to reposition it for the optimal location, upgrading to a different unit, replacing it if damaged
 
I understand what you are saying...i was just thinking that ..for a 6/8 inch mounting board i would have to drill 4 holes and for the transducer bracket just two.. Tug
 
Make the board slightly larger than your tranducer--and two screws will work fine. Be sure that you drill the holes in the Starboard first, then drill the holes in the transom--over drill the holes, under cut, the core, and fill with epoxy, then drill pilot holes. Criss cross cuts in the starboard next to where it goes into the hull--I like to use a very small dovetail bit in a Dremel tool, and apply the Starboard with 5200.

This way you can reposition, change, or move the transducer anytime you want with zero risk of water intrusion into the transom. Many boats I have looked at have water intrusion into the core, from the transducer screws--these screws are often loosened, to move the transducer. Getting a good seal under water in a cored transom is difficult. If the transom is solid glass, then not so much of a worry, but I still put on the Starboard--it is just so easy to move and adjust the transducer.

In the C Dory 25 we owned, we had about a 3 " diameter area where there was transom damage, which had to be routed out, and fixed before we mounted the starboard. This was because the transducer was not properly sealed--although professionally done.
 
If i understand you right..are you saying 2 screws/bolts would be ok for a transducer board 6 x 8 inches and prepared as you say. If i make the mounting board slightly larger than the transducer bracket there is not too much wiggle room left to move the transducer. Thanks Tug
 
When Stan mounted the transducer for my new Lowrance LMS-5 on the 22, I tried to get him to use Starboard as per discussions here. He gave me a lot of resistance, but because he has done it many times hopefully it will not have to be relocated!

Warren
 
Tug":1p2wqr39 said:
If i understand you right..are you saying 2 screws/bolts would be ok for a transducer board 6 x 8 inches and prepared as you say. If i make the mounting board slightly larger than the transducer bracket there is not too much wiggle room left to move the transducer. Thanks Tug

Tug, that's not what Dr Bob said. He said it was OK if it was slightly larger, not 6X8.

Charlie
 
If you properly place the transducer, you can have an inch of wiggle room on each ise, and maybe an inch up and down. Generally the blocks I use are no more than 2.5 x 4", and most are 2 x 3" --it depends on the bottom of the boat, and location of strakes--since the C Dory is almost flat, and no strakes, you don't need much room.

An example--on the Caracal, I put in one fishfinder last Sept. During the winter the face of the display cracked, and I cannot find an exact replacement of this FF--so I went to a different brand. Of course the cables and transducer were slightly different--so I had to move the transducer slightly--no problem because I have the block of Starboard.
 
thataway ...i understand what you were telling me..i found that picture you had posted in a earlier post showing the white mounting board with two transducers on it........Today i drilled..undercut the holes for the transducer board and filled with thickened epoxy..the holes are 1/2 diameter and 1-inch deep. I made them a little bigger because i am notorious for not being able to drill a straight hole.lol. I made lots of little holes in the back of the Starboard for extra grip for the adhesive ..does it matter if you use 3M 5200 or 3M 4200...i can never get 3M 5200 to cure where i live.I will leave them to cure until Friday/Saturday than drill and mount the board. What type of screw should i use...was thinking on Stainless Steel Panhead screws ..1 1/2 inches long...( i indented the holes on the board for the screws to sit flush ) ...would that be a good choice. Thanks Tug
 
Pan head screws will work if you have counter sunk them. I use flat head screws with a counter ink. The 5200 will cure under water--perhaps temperatures is an ussue? There is also a fast setting 4200 and 5200.
It sounds like you are OK to go. I would probably use 1 1/4 screws--just to avoid drilling thru the filled area.
 
thataway...i bought some 3M Fast Cure 5200 and 3M Fast Cure 4200 adhesive ...not sure which one to use...that should help with the temperature issue.I will pre-heat the mounting board and the transom before i attach them together with the screws.. and than use/leave a heat lamp on for a couple of days.I did a dry run today and the pilot holes on the board match up with the pilot holes on the transom...that was a big surprise..lol..will attach the board tomorrow. Thanks Tug
 
There is still one concern i have...how far should you place the transducer mounting board to the bottom of the hull...where i plan on placing it now...there is about 1/8 or so space between the mounting board and the hull bottom.. ..Thanks Tug
 
I place my mounting board flush with the bottom of the hull, but 1/8" should not be a problem. I have spaced them up a bit on real deep V's.
 
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