Transducer install; advice needed

L

localboy

New member
I have finally gotten my transducer to go with the Garmin 740S. I read the install instructions and went outside to do some measuring etc. I have a few questions, however, and I want to make sure of WTH I'm doing before I break out the drill. :crook

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
I am limited on how far center-line I can mount it due to the bunk on the trailer. See the pic. The instructions say that it should have smooth water flow over it (makes sense) and be as centered as possible. Is this position adequate? Will the trim tab affect the reading? Should I go more towards the engine, which would mean cutting the bunk? (which I really don't want to do)

Finally, my long range plan is to remove the swim platform from the current starboard position and move it to port. That way I can mount my kicker on the starboard side. The reason; when using it @ it's current location you have to step OVER all the controls, cables etc. It makes more sense to me to not have those obstacles in the way. Will putting a kicker on the same side as the transducer [later] mess with the function/readings?

More pics w/ measurements in my album. Thanks!! (as usual)
 
I am not sure what they mean by "centered". I think they mean between the centeline of the boat and the chine. Your placement looks good to me, but if you want to mount it towards the centerline, I would adjust the trailer by moving your winch mount back the distance the bunk would interfere with the transducer. I know, someone spent hours getting the boat to just fit, and have the perfect tongue weight etc etc......But it looks like just a couple of inches. Matt will know!
Now, I would get some 5200, and a small piece of starboard and stick it to the boat. and mount the transducer to the board. Then you will not have to drill holes into the hull, plus that will place the transducer back the thickness of the starboard. If you ever need to move it, you can heat the starboard and run a thin piano wire between the board and the boat. It will come right off. No holes to worry about. When I have done this, I groved the back of the starboard with a router to give it more surface area for the 5200 to adhere.

Robbi
 
I agree with Robbi on this one. , use the starboard and dont drill in the hull itself.

You have to understand that no matter where you put it you will loose depth reading under many condtions. high speed being the most common. ensure that the transducer is not in line with a strake and only behind a smooth section of the hull.
 
Mark, First off, Good luck. Second. I think I agree with Robbi and Tom. I have just less than 4" between my transducer and the tab. I have the same problem with my tabs that you have on yours. The edge is bent up, allowing the fluid to move laterally off the tab plate as well as to go off the trailing edge. The transducer looses bottom if the water flow gets air mixed in, of the or becomes turbulent.

A fix, I think for much of that, is to have those edges turned down --- like the Permatrims.

IF you wind up moving the boat back on the trailer, (Which I would not be inclined to do), I would be sure to keep the end of the transom bunk at least even with aft edge of the transom. The transduce should be even with the plane of the bottom of teh hull.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
I'm worried about messing with the balance if I move the boat back on the trailer. The trailer is the proper 7500 that should come with all 25's according to Matt, and it was prepared by someone at the original dealer. Again, way more knowledge/experience than I have prepping boats (which is none :wink: ).

And Robbi, you were correct; by center I meant center-line of the boat. Per the instructions, as close to the center-line as possible is optimal.

I'm hoping Matt chimes in w/ his opinion, since he's seen the boat/trailer etc. THanks guys...and gals.
 
Because the transducer is mounted flush with the hull bottom, do you think the bunk would really interfere with the transducer if it were mounted above it? It looks like the bunk only sticks out 1 to 2 inches.
Cutting the bunk is really not an option on an EZ Loader as the mounting bracket for the bunk runs all the way to the end of the board and includes mounting holes for the bunk and a tie down.

Robbi
 
No, Robbi it sticks out probably 4-6" total. It would definately hit the unit. Right now the boat is loaded as far as possible to port; at the max of the side guides. As a result, this would be as far to center-line as I dare go without the bunk hitting the unit. I PM'd Matt for some insight.
 
mark, the reason that the instructions want you to place the transducer as close to center as possible is because they think you own a v- hull like 99% of boats owners. many folks have put the transducer on the edge of the hull and when they plane out of the water the transducer will not work because its out of the water. This is not as much of a problem with flat bottom c-Dory's.

after looking at your photos I think you will be find where you have the tinplate.
 
Move the trailer winch stand back the daistance that the bunking is hanging past the boat. It shouldn't affect tongue weight that much (although you can take it for a tow to be sure the handling is not affected).

I know that many on this board really like the starboard to mount the transducer to. I am going to disagree politely. I don't like the look of the starboard on the transom. I think it adds a level of complexity to the install that just isn't needed.

The 25 Cruiser in question has a foam transom, so rot isn't a possibility, and the transducer mount is designed to allow some movement up or down after the screws are in.

I would move the boat back on the trailer, and move the transducer inboard just a bit, and call it good. At high speed you may loose the bottom, but that's pretty typical.
 
Just my 2 cents but I always glue my transducers inside up forward. With a single skin up there they shoot just fine. My 19 held bottom with a low power Humminbird 160 until I was at 4200 rpm no fuss no muss no holes no worries. Not popular with many but works good you know, George
 
Will putting a kicker on the same side as the transducer [later] mess with the function/readings? If so, I may move it to port although the install will be more difficult/longer.
 
Shouldn't affect the trasnducer. If mounted too close to the main it can create turbulance and allow the motor to suck air into the cooling system causing overheat isues. The kicker isn't pushing the boat fats enough to create this problem, so 'ducer and kicker on same side are ok.
 
Awesome! Mahalo, Matt and everyone else for your input, experience, opinions etc. It's a live & learn thing for me, and I appreciate the help. Guess I have some work to do...
 
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