trailer

Boris, the mfrs don't sell direct. Go to one of their websites and onward to one of their dealers. I think you'll find prices there.

Boris, my apologies, there aren't many with prices, I had a problem finding one just now.

Try the NADA USED TRAILER SITE

I think if you pick the 2007 model year, you can figure out the difference between the prices on the tandem vs single trailer. If you do go to a dealer site, I'm sure they'll send you a quote via e-mail.

One more time! It looks like the difference between a 2007 single axle trailer with surge brakes ($2365) and a 2007 dual axle trailer with surge brakes ($2800) is about $435. You can price other options on the NADA site. I would think the new ones would be just a little more than that, but not much.

Charlie
 
Boris-

I bought a triple axle aluminum trailer for my Sea Ray from a dealer in Ohio and had it shipped olut here for less than I could buy it or the equivalent locally!

I picked it up in Barstow, then towed it home to Redding. The transportation was $650. I paid $3995 for the trailer. At just under $5000, it was quite a bit cheaper than I could get one for here in California.

Here's the manufacturer followed by the dealer-

MFG:Venture Boat Trailers

DLR:Pirate Marine

Also:

There should be several boat trailer manufacturers down in the Central Valley of CA. See what they can do for you directly w/o a dealer's added profit.

Finally, boat trailers vary a lot in quality from brand to brand and model to model. Do your homework well before comitting to buy.

e.g.:

aluminum/stainless vs gaalvanized vs. painted steel

how many axles have brakes?

surge or electric over hydraulic? Back-up lockout available installed?

drum or disk? steel, alloy, or stainless?

leaf spring or torsion?

bunks or rollers?

winch: mechanical (one or two speed), electrical?

filament or LED lights?

well fitted side Guide-Ons available? Cost?"

tires: size, rims, width, load range, quality, warranty?

matching spare available?

manufacturer's warranty? Dealer back-up/service?

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Whatever you do, if the trailer comes with "S" hooks on the safety chains, replace them with something that LOCKS onto the trailer hitch and won't bounce off!!
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HTH!

Joe. :teeth
 
Joe and Charlie; Thanks for the answers, and no, I'm not looking for a new trailer, just trying to fix the ~!@#$ electric actuator on the one I got.

My point is: since one of the great benefits of a C-Dory is that it's trailerable, just get a stout trailer. If you're buying a new boat and new motor, the difference in price between a single and double axle trailer is in the noise. It's a lot less than rollers, galvanized, diskbrakes, etc. all of which I would consider essential. Just get the best trailer you can afford. It'l save you money and grief in the long run.

Boris
 
Another rookie experience: I purchased a new trailer with the 22' cruiser. Less than 24 hours later I am using dry storage and service is available at the Everett Marina. In addition I have to pay storage, and I want to sell the trailer with only 50 miles on it!

Driving it off the dealer's lot was very costly because now I am out 25% of the cost, including sales tax.

The trailer is a King KBT 4000, double axle, with rails. If anyone is thinking of purchasing a boat and wants a discounted trailer, please email me.

The local C-Brats have been super helpful to me and I would like to pass the good karma along.

BaseCampAnne Kenmore, WA
 
I have a trailer question and I would like some opinions.

I have the side rails to keep the boat over the trailer when loading in the wind. they work well for that but are a pain when cleaning the scum line. Also the 2x6 rails are held to the posts with lag screws and I have had to replace these on both sides.

The question is do you loose much by removing the side rails and putting PVC pipe over the rails?

This would make it much easier to clean the boat and I would not have to mess with a side rail coming loose on a trip. I would still have something to keep the boat over the trailer in wind.

I know some people have this type of set-up. How well does it work? Has anyone had both types?

Thanks,
Steve
 
Steve-

Do I understand your question correctly?

"The question is do you loose much by removing the side rails and putting PVC pipe over the rails?"

Do you mean do you loose much by removing the 2 x 6 horizontal wooden side rails (that are at least 5/8 ths the length of the boat, and simply putting PVC pipe over the vertical support members" ?

If so, I think you'd be disappointed by loosing the side rails. Two sets of vertical PVC pipes will not nearly center the boat as well as the full set of rails.

Instead, I'd suggest you get rid of the lag bolts holding the rails to the vertical supports and replace them with carriage bolts.

It's no secret the lag bolts rot out and pull away, dropping the rails loose.

The carriage bolt, mounted with it's round head and locking washer from the inside, will replace the lag bolt and hold tight.

You may want to use a carriage bolt a bit larger in diameter than the lag bolt you're replacing for tightness.

Replace all the lag bolts with carriage bolts.

If they're really rotted out move the whole rail a few inches to get new wood or replace the rail entirely.

Re-cover the parts of the rails that have the carriage bolts with new carpet. The heads are low-profile, but still need to be covered.


ca_bolt_1as.jpg

Use the carriage bolt with a special washer that locks onto the square portion under the round head and has four spikes to lock down into the wood below. (I can't find a picture of these washers.) See your local hardware store.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Hi Joe,

I could replace the lag bolts with the carriage bolts and that would keep the rails on. it would not solve the problem of the rails being in the way when cleaning. Mine are located right where the scum line is when I pull out and it is hard to clean that area.

Another solution might be to make some kind of quick release for the brackets that hold the rails to the posts. Then I could remove the rails, clean the boat and replace them. I think it is a 1/2in bolt on each end. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Steve
 
Steve,
You could replace the bolt which holds the guide board fitting with a hitch pin. This woud allow a quick removal of the entire side guide board.
g7098027.gif
 
Perhaps widen the space between posts. They are mainly to help during retrieval; I think.
Zelpha
 
Steve-

I like Ken's idea of the hitch pins and fold-down rails!

Depending on how the posts are made, you might just have to use hitch pins or cut the posts and add hinges and / or an overlapping section to the post to accomplish the fold-down idea.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I am not too sure about a fold down option but the overlapping section does sound like it could work and be simple. I would just need to cut the posts and add some type of coupler connection. One end would be bolted and the other could have a quick release pin.

I will have to think about this. I would still like to hear from those that do have just the posts with pvc tubes on them.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Steve-

You say you have trouble cleaning the scum line due to the rails.

Are you talking about the scum line at the waterline or ?

My rails fit up just a few inches below the rub rails, and the only scum line up there is the grease off the dock's rubber bumper guards.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Hi Joe,

My rails are positioned just about at the water line except up forward. I can not raise mine because they are at the top of the posts. The only way to clean this area is to squish a sponge between the boat and the rails.

When I recently waxed my boat I had to remove the rails. Not that much trouble but not the thing you want to do at a wash-down area after loading onto the trailer. If I could make them so that they would fold flat on top of the fenders then that would work.

The easiest solution would be to remove the rails and use the pvc pipes over the metal posts like ski boats use. Just not sure how much more trouble it would be to load in a strong side wind.

Steve
 
Steve-

That's quite a difference in rail height! See photos:

DCP00492.sized.jpg
SeaSpray on Trailer.

IM001899.jpg
Sea Wolf on trailer.

How about raising your rails with longer supports?

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I know someone recently posted a mod to their trailer in which the posts were held in with pins (as Ken suggested) and were easily removable. If I recall, the posts went down into square receivers that had a pin to hold them in. Rattling was eliminated with a thumbscrew. I've searched all over the site and couldn't find the post. It was posted within the last 2 months or so and there were some nice pictures of the work. I thought maybe Mike on Huda Thunkit was the guy (since he's made so many nice mod's to his boat). I went to look in his album but it appears to be missing. So, bottom line, somebody made a good mod to the trailer recently that is similar to what Ken described and there should be pictures of it someplace on the site.
 
Joe,

A big difference in rail heights. One of the advantages of the height of mine is that you can use them as an additional step when getting on or off the boat when on the trailer. Probably not too good for those lag boats though.

Steve
 
Back to the original post... I strongly recommend a dual axle trailer. Price difference will not be great. Also check your local laws. In PA every axle has to have brakes.

I have a Magic Tilt dual axle trailer with surge disc brakes on both axles. It is a great setup. Trailered my boat from NC to PA today. Set the cruise on 70, cranked up some Jimmy Buffet and enjoyed the ride.

My Nor'Sea sits on a triple axle trailer. I confess that tight backing situations concern me about rolling a tire off the rim.

Best overall answer (in my opinion) is a dual axle trailer. If you blow a tire your day will not be ruined. Then again it crossed my mind today while driving North on I-95 that blowing a steering tire on my pickup would not be a good thing. ;)

Al
 
seabran":2gkl4jms said:
Joe,

A big difference in rail heights. One of the advantages of the height of mine is that you can use them as an additional step when getting on or off the boat when on the trailer. Probably not too good for those lag boats though.

Steve
Click to expand...
Ha!

Interestingly enough, I first step on the METAL fenders, then step up to the rails, then to the gunnels, and then down into a step stool sitting on the floor of the boat, then to the floor.

A FIVE STEP APPROACH FOR AN OLD MAN WITH A NEW KNEE!

Joe. :lol:
 
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