Trailer capacity; a cautionary tale

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Here come the Weight Police. :cry:





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A few thoughts:

How about all the extras carried but not mentioned?

Here is some stuff that I though of, which is seldom mentioned, but add weight to the boat.

Battery cables, battery switch, outboard motor control box and wiring and shift cables, trim tabs, trim tab pump, wiring.

Radar arch, radar, electronics, wire to hook up the electronics, shore power cable, 120 volt wiring, breaker box, battery charger.

Anchors, chain, rode, anchor windlass, wiring for anchor windlass, dock lines, fenders, boat hook.

Cooking pots and pans, expresso machine, window curtins, ice chest, blankets.

Fishing gear, fishpole holders, downriggers and gear, crab pots and gear.

All this stuff add weight, and I don't think any of us puts it on a scale before putting it on our boats.
 
Falco - Am wondering if the scales that weighed your boat and trailer are accurate. I like several others on this topic find it hard to believe that much weight is on your boat. Something just doesn't "add" up.

John
 
Larry – you are so right about all the little extras a person never takes into consideration when looking at their total weight.

When it comes to the trailer I am not overly concerned about weight. Almost always the tires are the limiting factor on what the trailer will carry. I look at the weight ratting of the tires, multiply it by the number of tires and don’t go over that. I try and stay a little under but the main thing I go by is how the tire looks and trailer handles with the load on it.

I am more concerned about the weight I have on board when I am in the water. Here the main thing I go by is how the boat sets in the water and how it handles.

There are two capacities for my boat a 16 foot cruiser. The manufacture suggested weight for people and gear which is 700 lbs. The other is the maximum capacity for the hull which is 1150 lbs. I assume the 1150 lbs is for the bare hull. User added items count toward the 1150 lbs., dealer added items count toward the 1150 lbs. and manufacturer optional items count toward the 1150 lbs.

That said, I still wanted to have an idea about the weight in my boat. The only way I could get this was to weigh everything, so I did. I weighed everything with the exception of the bow rail, the electric wipers, the swim step, and the engine controls. I estimated the weight of those items because they are manufacturer optional items or dealer added items. I was in the process of rewiring my boat so I also weighed all 22 lbs of the wiring. If it wasn’t a part of the hull, I weighed it and everything we brought onboard. I was surprised how much all the little things added up to.

Most of the time when we go out, our load is around 967 lbs plus 300 for Terri and me or a total of 1267 lbs. I have had as much as 1482 lbs on the boat. With 1267 lbs we are only 10% over the maximum rated capacity. The boat does not set low in the water and it handles OK so I don’t worry about it. At 1482 it is a different story. I wouldn’t want to be out there except under good conditions.

I would never suggest someone load their boat over the maximum rated capacity, but you have no way of knowing unless you weigh everything, so just use some common sense and be aware how your boat sets and handles in the water and you should be OK.
 
Yellowstone: re accuracy of the scales I used - I agree it might be a factor. I might go to a different scale and try again. The only thing is that the scales I used to get a boat+trailer weight weighed my truck (alone) accurately. (I know because the scale weight = the Toyota published curb weight + my weight), minus about 50 lbs (gas weight?).

Will keep working to get more data and publish it here.
 
Falco,
Unless C-Dory has made changes since 2002: I weighed my boat with its normal loading and about 1/2 full fuel at the local truck scale. Total weight was 3840 with 340 lbs tongue weight on a single axle EZ Loader. With a GVWR of 4600 that give me a trailer weight of 900 lbs (4600 less 3700). Therefore the loaded boat would be 3840 less 900 for the trailer or 2940. My owners manual says normal running weight = 3800 lbs and Maximum Gross Weight = 4500 lbs according to C-Dory. In my case it all seems to be well within limits. In your case you seem to be way overweight. I checked out your photo album and it looks like your boat has quite a bit of additional equipment I don't have. I think you should get another weight on the boat and trailer. The fact that you have to slow down to 40 or45 on a very rough section of freeway, just seems like common sense to me.
Since I have a single axle (3700 lb carrying capacity) my tires are good heavy duty (2540 lb) rated tires. Tows fine. If I were you I would certainly upgrade to the best tires that will fit and chalk it up to experience. The owners manual does warn that you must take care to load and balance the boat properly when operating at maximum gross weight. I have occasionally had mine loaded this heavy or more and still can get on plane(just barely) and I felt the handling was safe if sluggish. Good luck.
 
Ken,

Just to be clear, is the 3840 the weight of the boat only, or the weight of the boat and trailer. If it includes the trailer, do you know the weight of the trailer?

Is it possible for you or someone to post a copy of that part of the owners manual?

My boat was built prior to owners manuals! LOL
 
Larry,
Good catch. I spaced out and forgot to subtract the weight of the trailer. I edited the post to correct that. Trailer weights, if I understand how this works, are easy to compute by subtracting the carrying capacity from the GVWR. About the only kicker would be the weight of the spare or anything else you may have bolted on after buying. Sorry but I have no idea how to post a document, I can barely get a picture in my album.
 
Ken,

Just so I don't have a 'senior moment' about boat weight can you confirm that:

The factory says that the boat and everything on or in it, including people, fuel, water, etc. can weigh up to 4500lbs max?

Don't mean to bug you, I just want to be clear. LOL

See you at Lopez!
 
Larry,
That is what it says in my 2002 owners manual. I will try to type the quote in:
Maximum Gross Weight = 4500 lbs. The maximum gross weight of the boat, motors, fuel, gear and passengers. Operating he boat at maximum gross weight requires special care in loading. The boat must be loaded so as to maintain the correct attitude fore and aft, and it must be kept level from side to side. Expect the boat to feel heavy (it is).
Normal Running Weight = 3800 lbs. The normal running weight is the total weight of the boat, motors, fuel, gear and passengers. this is the design weight of the hull. If properly balanced this weight will give the best average for speed, comfort and economy.
 
For what it's worth, I loaded the boat up a few weeks ago with six people fairly close to the 4500 lb limit.

I ordinarily run about 3300 lbs empty with the extra batteries, generator, microwave, anchors, fluids, fishing gear, food and drink, etc.

With approx. 950 lbs of additional folks on board, the 4250 resulting total weight was only 250 lbs short of the stated limit.

The boat felt heavy, but ok, not dangerous at all, just a biit sluggish and required more power to respsond.

The worst part was when the weather turned rainy and cold, and we had all six inside the cabin: four setting at the dinette, one in the aisle, and one at the helm. Handled pretty good on plane, but a slower speeds the listing to port was pretty bad!

All in all, the boat will handle 4500 lbs pretty well, I'd say. The difficulties, I'd think, would be in running with the waves, and big swells, from abaft.

Joe.
 
Ken and Joe,

Thanks for quoting the owners manual. I weighed my boat many years back and found that boat and trailer were over the 5,000 GVWR of the trailer(trailer weighs 850lbs). The boat had only a partial load of fuel and water.

I think that my boat is near that 4500 lb limit most of the time. We are equipped for long distance voyaging in the Northwest, and gear and supplies build up. Especially leaving port with full fuel, water, food ,ice, etc.
 
Thanks, Larry and Ken

One thing I forgot to mention earlier was that my gas mileage went from an an average of little over 4 mpg down to 3 mpg with the extrta weight on board and the hydrofopil trimming the bow down in chop on the way home.

Joe.
 
This is a very interesting thread - and lots of words over a simple situation. Next to the skipper, the folks who care most about weight are the trailer and boat builders. With thousands of trailers and hundreds of C-Dory boats out, the potential liability is frightening. We are very fortunate because the dory hull can take a lot of extra weight, and the trailers are over-built to accommodate extra weight. But rules are rules.

The placard weight on the boat should be followed for ones own safety. The gross weight on the trailer should not be exceeded. IF these safety rules are not violated the 3700# trailer is very adequate. Because I'm an old tightwad I don't carry any more weight in the boat than is essential for the trip. NEVER full water, NEVER full fuel, and many other nevers unless it is required for the particular trip -- plus a safety margin of course.

Weight has a big impact on fuel burn. I've been meaning to do some careful testing on this, but just from my personal experience and watching the Flow Scan (or its cheaper sister), an additional passenger, or 4 shrimp pots, make a measurable difference in NMPG. Light boat I can get 5 NMPG and it doesn't take a lot of weight to drop that to 4 or even 3.5. Because my trips are at least 40 or 50 miles r/t and fuel is 3.50+ a gallon this old skinflint stays light.

Trailer balance - after years 'n' years of towing I like about 10% of the package on the tow vehicle. With a solid tow vehicle I can drop to 6%, but that can get uncomfortable in some circumstances.

So have fun. Don't overload except with fish, and follow the safety rules. If in doubt, run your rig on the scales and adjust accordingly! End of lecture :wink: :lol: -

Wish I could do math like Joe!!!!!

Dusty
 
Hey Dusty,
Here's some interesting math for you: I have found that by adding 200 lbs I can decrease my cost for fuel to about $1.75/gal or conversely get almost 8 NMPG! How you ask? I take a 200lb fishing buddy who pays for half the fuel. LOL
 
Ken,

Great idea! My fishing buddy is 5'2", in her 70s, and if I insisted on splitting the gas bill she'd insist on me washing dishes!! The way it has been working for about 54 years balances the beam!!! :wink:

O/T -- I've seen some NICE halibut and salmon weighed in the last few days.... hmmmm - 3.50+ or not I gotta go do it.

Dusty
 
Ddusty-

Bite the bullet and pay the $3.50 per gallon!

I paid $4.30 on the lake two days ago: $44.30 for 10.3 gallons!

Glad I didn't need 50 ($215.00!).

Joe
 
As a frequent skulker of this site (to get all learned-up, with the idea of a future purchase), I'd have to echo the questioning of the #4140 weight of the BOAT ONLY. Could this include the trailer?
 
Guess I should add a P.S. --

If you overload your boat and trailer and have for years like I have. And swore to never do it again, as I have done, as you tried to get a blown tire off -- can't find the jack, can't find the lug wrench -- and then do it again. Man, you are a TRUE BRAT! Cheers :cocktail :cocktail :thup,

Dusty
 
Dusty-

I keep the jack, lug wrench, grease gun, etc, in the back of the Durango's under floor trunk where there's not much space to begin with.

Keep saying I'm goping to get a lockable metal box and bolt it to the front of the trailer, but...........(?) At least the spare is bolted on there!

Joe.
 
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