Time to recarpet the trailer siderails.

C

Casey

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Joined
Nov 2, 2003
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C Dory Year
2006
C Dory Model
23 Venture
Hull Identification Number
GXK23017A606
Vessel Name
"Dessert 1st"
The side rails on our King trailer are really worn from numerous climbs in and out of the boat over the years. Time to "recarpet."

Seems like a straight forward job - but before I launch into it, thought I'd ask the C-Brats for thoughts/ideas.

Any recommendations on the type of carpet to use (I'm assuming some sort of indoor/outdoor...), or more importantly, any recommnendations of what NOT to use!?

I'm also thinking about using some type of rubber dock bumper material in lieu of carpet. Anybody tried that?

Appreciate your thoughts!

Casey
C-Dory Naknek
 
I see West Marine sells the stuff, but it just looks like indoor/outdoor stuff...
Home Depot has the same stuff..(I think)

I just had sideboards installed on my trailer... my question is, and you might be the best to answer.... how much clearance between the boat and the boards should you have ?? when they were installed they were tight against the boat..... I think they would wear the side of the boat... I backed them off ... to give about 1/2" clearance...is this good..or should I back it off more??

Joel
SEA3PO
 
I don't have sideboards but I would think that wear would be caused with movement while traveling (not launching or retrieving as long as it's a smooth surface) and that a tighter fit would be better. If it can't move, it can't/won't wear.... I would think/hope...

There's some thoughts from someone who doesn't have any experience with the issue. Never stopped me before! :smilep

Charlie
 
Joel,

I'd say 1/2 inch clearance is about what we have as well. Seems to work ok, but sometimes I wish there was a little tendency to center the boat when loading - but I think that's a issue topic than side rail clearance (more like the flat hull wants to wander a bit). The bow will come into the chock ok, but the stern sometimes want to wander a bit. ...still looking for a solution.

We'll be seeing you at Powell next month. Bring a couple pic's of your Beemer(s); but please don't bring a pic of a 1973 R75/5 Toaster tank, unless you want to see me cry. Long story.

Later,
Casey
C-Dory Naknek
 
When the boat is perfectly centered, I have about 1/2" clearance on each side at the fat belly point on the Jenny B. :thup
 
I've still got the originals on my "87 trailer! I think it's partly due to the fact that the carpet is of an I/O type that doesn't retain water and rot.

Stay away from normal carpet with a lot of jute or wool. Synthetics are better, i.e., rot less or not at all.

A dark color will absorb more heat from the sun and dry out better.

Look at the stuff sold for this purposes and buy it or the equivalent.

Use stainless staples or brads. Regular steel rusts out within a two year period in fresh water, probably a year in salt.

The wood underneath must be allowed to dry to stop it from rotting. Paint any exposed areas black to heat it up.

My rails were attached to the trailer with lag screws and the wood rotted out aroud them. Replaced them with stainless carriage bolts = end of problem.

If you have to replace the rails, use redwood heartwood or something that won't rot out quickly. Pressure treated wood might be the best.

My rails are curved to the hull form. Don't really know whether or not they're laminated up from thinner stock on a form. Replacing a curved rail might require you to build a form and lay the rails up from 1/4" strips with waterproof glue. Another wood shop project!

I have 3/4 inch clearance on each side. from 1/2 to 1 inch is probably OK. It may depend on how your side rails / guide-ons are designed. You want to be able to center the boat, but not rub off the gelcoat.

If you can get away with it, move the side clearance lights from wheel level up to the top front of the guide-on to keep them out of the water when launching. Less likely to get smacked by another trailer in the parking lot too!

Joe.
 
Sea Wolf":1iavm036 said:
My rails are curved to the hull form. Don't really know whether or not they're laminated up from thinner stock on a form. Replacing a curved rail might require you to build a form and lay the rails up from 1/4" strips with waterproof glue. Another wood shop project! Joe.
Click to expand...

Joe, I think you'll find your rails are curved more because you slammed them too many times while boating under the influence of Shasta water. Remember, the boat's fat belly has to get past the rear rail mounting posts and if the boards are parallel, 1/2" at the belly point translates to about 3 1/2-4" at the rear. :moon

OTOH, maybe the distance between your front mounting posts is way narrower than usual

Don
 
I have about two inches of clearance with my side bunkers on my trailer. Couple of reason I would not adjust tighter that may be specific to my setup.

First I got rid of the lag bolts that held the side boards to the brackets and replaced with a flathead countersunk stainless 5/16 bolt. Did not counter sink the board I just wrenched the things down and they sunk into the bunker board with no problem.

Now the reason for the additional clearance. I used nylock nuts to attach to the brackets so if I want to remove sideboard with the boat on the trailer I need to get an allen wrench between the side bunker and the boat. Why would you need to remove the side boards? They get in the way when you wax the hull.

stevej
 
Don-

Good point about how the hull's max width must go up inside the rails, which just might not be parallel.

I know the front and back widths are independently adjustable.

Will measure next time I see the trailer (stored elsewhere).

Joe.
 
I think 1/2" is just right. The hole idea of siderails is to help center the boat on the trailer. I have about 2" on each side and quite often I pull the boat out off center and have to float it again to correct it. Never took the time to adjust the siderails after the boats put away. Not too bright!

My problem now is the wood in my siderails in showing signs of wrought so I'll need to replace the wood as well as the carpet. I'd be interested in what type of adhesive to use to attach the carpet. Upholstery staples would rust quick.

Your input would be appreciated. Thanks,
Dick
 
Dick-

As I suggested earlier, stainless steel staples on the sides of the wood that don't face the boat seem to work.

If you want to use adhesives, resistance to extreme heat and some UV penetration would bear consideration.

Regular contact cement or Liquid Nails will work for a few years.

For a permanent fix, go to an RV dealer and get their very best urethane roof sealer, just plan on throwing away the rails with the used carpet after the carpet wears out, as you won't be getting the old carpet away from the wood without using a pneumatic muffler cutting tool!

Joe.
 
I have noticed that my left side guide rail vibrates when towing. Not constanly but frequently. The right side does not do this. Any one else have this problem?

I just noticed the vibrating but on the way home from Desolation Sound last Sept. that rail came loose on one end while trailering. It had pulled loose from the lag screws and it was only 1 year old.

I want to adjust that side to see if I can stop it from vibrating but it is stored elsewhere for now.

Steve
 
Interesting comments. My side bunks are tight up against the hull, with about maybe 5-10 lbs of force. Even with that though, my hull wouldn't center very well between the wheel fenders (only 1/2" clearance each side). So picked up what I call "cheek blocks" from WM at $79 for the pair, they're 2x4's about 2 ft long. They're made to mount to the trailer's frame, but I mounted them to the built-in trailer ladder on the starboard side and the rear vertical strut of the side bunk on the port side. Positioned them low on the hull, just above the waterline. They are very stiff--they don't bend. My boat centers itself now everytime within +/- 1/2"; if high winds I have someone help hold a neutral position for the boat as I slowly pull out -- until the cheek blocks kick in.

Steve
 
Steve-

Your solution sounds like a "breakthrough"!

If you could get a picture of it and post it here or in your album we'd appreciate it very much to help us visualize exactly how it works.

Thanks!

Joe.
 
Took me several attempts to even get this site to come up, might be on its LAST LEGS...

I'll get some pics Saturday and post when I'm home in the 'daylight'. :smiled

Steve
 
Steve,

That sound very much like something I'd been thinking about to help center the boat when retrieving.

I'd like to see a picture as well.

Thanks,
Casey
C-Dory Naknek
 
Well the sun isn't shining but at least it's light out, took some photos of my little invention I call "cheek blocks", really works to center the boat. Couldn't use the frame mounting hardware that came with the set, my frame is too large 6" plus distance from the frame to the lower part of the boat side too far. Thought about just making my own set, but already bought them. Cheap hardware with them as you can see (3 yrs old).

Photos start here http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Here's the first photo to give you an idea of what it is

PICT0029.sized


Steve
 
Darn it Steve... I haven't even finished the rounded table corner project and you came up with another great idea...... I have a set of small rollers that came on a tin boat trailer I had years ago that I think I will try to adapt to the tail of my trailer.... to center the boat...great ideas....

Joel
SEA3PO :bat
 
Steve

Your auxiliary side guides (cheek blocks) look great. The vertical supports on your trailer appear to be quite substantial. Do you think the L brackets (1-1/2” ? light gauge square tubing) furnished on the units sold by West Marine would have enough strength to hold boat in place?

Thanks,
 
Hank,

Not sure how substantial those square tubes are that came with the kit, not even sure if I still have them (but knowing me, I 'packed' them away somewhere anyway...).

Yes they should work for helping to center the boat during loading -- if that is, you can get the geometry worked out to attach to the trailer frame AND end up high enough to do some good. What I mean is, as the trailer comes up to meet the rear of the boat while pulling the rig out, the rear of the boat still has to be somewhat movable by the time it reaches the cheek blocks or else it will just jam against an edge of the block and damage either the block or boat. Maybe I was lucky, all the ramps that I use here are all about the same slope which helps a lot. S-l-o-w is the word when pulling the rig out to allow as much time as possible for the bunks and cheek blocks to center the boat.

Might have to fab a suitable method of attachment if the stock rails don't put the blocks where you need them -- that's what I did.

Steve
 
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