We’re now home in Pennsylvania, and the Cosmic C is moored at the Midway Marina on the Tenn-Tom Waterway. We’ll be back on board in November to start the second leg of our Loop, heading for the Tampa area.
Some loopers are noting that the anchorages along the Mississippi, Ohio, and Cumberland rivers are either disappearing or becoming much more difficult. The anchorages we tried were all much shallower that listed in Skipper Bob, partly because of silting, but also it seemed that the water is pretty low – all the bridge clearances are 2 – 4 feet more than listed. C Dories can, of course, get into fairly shallow locations, and we did anchor behind Angelo Towhead Island on the Mississippi and in Birdsong Creek on the Tennessee river. We found 8 feet for about a quarter of a mile up the Angelo Towhead chute (actually no longer a chute because the upstream ends of this and other chutes have been filled in by the Corps), but the channel in is now very narrow and has shifted, so now one must favor the island and turn in between the tree stump and the island. I’d hate to try it in a bigger vessel, but it’s still possible. The bay at Birdsong Creek is now hardly recognizable, and the depth is no more than 4 – 5 feet, OK for us but not for bigger craft.
Lock 52 on the Ohio is currently a problem. The main chamber is closed for maintenance, and this is causing huge delays for the commercial traffic. Tow after tow is nosed into the bank awaiting passage, some for days. We were lucky. Our wait was only three hours before they squeezed us in. And we do mean squeezed; when the gates opened to let us out, the tow waiting to get in had nosed up so close to the gates that we had only about a 10ft opening to squeeze by. They also let us float in this lock, which was very helpful since they have only fixed bollards which make it quite difficult for small craft.
We enjoyed our stay at the Green Turtle Bay Marina on Lake Barkley and yes, we did go to Patti’s and yes, we did have their two-inch thick pork chops (which provided enough meat for two more meals on board!). On Kentucky Lake we saw the sternwheeler Mississippi Queen, which was a grand sight coming down the lake.
As we were approaching Clifton, Tennessee we heard on the radio that the 24th Annual Horseshoe River Bend Festival was starting that night, so we decided to make an early stop there and join the fun. We listened to the Kentucky Headhunters and other bands, downed fried catfish and hushpuppies, watched a wrestling bout (talk about theater!), and wandered through stalls selling all sorts of Southern memorabilia. A fun evening.
We made the Midway Marina the next day largely because the locks on the Tenn-Tom are no longer opening only every two hours. In fact they acted like locks on the Erie Canal, calling ahead so that the next lock was ready and waiting for us, and the operators were among the politest and friendliest we've met. And all free. Amazing.
We like the Midway Marina. The folks are really friendly, it's far enough off the channel that wakes really aren't a problem, and we feel quite safe leaving the Cosmic C there for a month or so.
Patrick and Mary Fowles
25 ft C Dory Cosmic C
Currently moored at the Midway Marina on the Tenn-Tom
Www.the-fowles.com