C Pelican came with a glass over the table top--and we put different charts under it. I believe that the glass was safety glass. Never a problem with it flying or falling out. As long as the fiddles around the edges are adequate, the glass should stay. I prefer the glass, because of scratching. Lexan is even worse for scratching. We have had plastic chart protectors--and you can polish out the scratches, but for a table, the glass works very well.
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Table modification
- Thread starter matt_unique
- Start date
matt_unique
New member
thataway":viw9is7n said:C Pelican came with a glass over the table top--and we put different charts under it. I believe that the glass was safety glass. Never a problem with it flying or falling out. As long as the fiddles around the edges are adequate, the glass should stay. I prefer the glass, because of scratching. Lexan is even worse for scratching. We have had plastic chart protectors--and you can polish out the scratches, but for a table, the glass works very well.
No trouble with the glass flipping up even through some seas/bouncing? I wondered if perhaps the weight of the glass combined with the support of the fiddles and hull on the sides might keep it in place...
matt_unique":rqpkn0vi said:thataway":rqpkn0vi said:C Pelican came with a glass over the table top--and we put different charts under it. I believe that the glass was safety glass. Never a problem with it flying or falling out. As long as the fiddles around the edges are adequate, the glass should stay. I prefer the glass, because of scratching. Lexan is even worse for scratching. We have had plastic chart protectors--and you can polish out the scratches, but for a table, the glass works very well.
No trouble with the glass flipping up even through some seas/bouncing? I wondered if perhaps the weight of the glass combined with the support of the fiddles and hull on the sides might keep it in place...
Matt-
I would guess that the air pressure as well as the weight of the glass keeps the glass sheet from rising up quickly off the table.
With a tight, flat fit between the bottom of the glass and the top of the table, the glass would be held down by the air pressure, at least somewhat. Ever try to raise a flat sheet of particle board or plywood up quickly from another and feel the air pressure on top of the outer sheet resist a quick separation? (Some would say the vacuum between the sheets causes the resistance, but it's really the positive air pressure on the outer one that provides the real force.)
The weight of the glass is another factor, being just about as dense as most metals. The ordinary rocking, rolling, falling and rising motion of the boat is not so severe as to dislodge the glass unless your out in seas that are going to jar loose everything else in the boat as well. Just be sure the fiddles stop any sliding.
Of course, I wouldn't try the glass like this on a USCG 47 foot Surfboat, though! Going turtle (upside down) and coming up later would make glass shards out of it. It would need a "seat belt" just like the seats for the Coxwain and crew.
BTW: They make clear plastic edge mounting brackets for mirrors that could be used on the table if you didn't mind the bumps they would make on the table top.
My $0.02!
Joe. :thup :teeth
matt_unique
New member
Thanks for the info and ideas.
Where can I buy safety glass cut to spec? Is this something I can get from Home Depot or such?
Where can I buy safety glass cut to spec? Is this something I can get from Home Depot or such?
An auto glass shop will have flat windshield glass available for repairing heavy trucks and heavy equipment glass since they are just a flat piece cut to fit. They use the same safety glass as used in automobile windshields. It has a plastic film in between two layers that holds the whole thing together if it's cracked. It would be a perfect way to go with this project. Tempered glass is tough, but it fractures into a million tiny pieces if it is broken.
Any good auto glass shop can cut and then smooth the edges. If you want to smooth the edges of safety glass, we find that a belt sander works fine.
We have never had any moisture problem with the glass over a chart--but I would not put a truely valuable chart under the glass. Items can get spilled and get under the glass. We were always able to clean this out on the rare occasion it happened. We really enjoy having the planning chart for a cruise under the glass. That way at dinner we can look at the broad picture of the next day's routes.
We have never had any moisture problem with the glass over a chart--but I would not put a truely valuable chart under the glass. Items can get spilled and get under the glass. We were always able to clean this out on the rare occasion it happened. We really enjoy having the planning chart for a cruise under the glass. That way at dinner we can look at the broad picture of the next day's routes.
matt_unique
New member
Thanks again. My antique map of France is laminated so no worries about spillage.
I will research local autoglass shops.
I will research local autoglass shops.
Hi Matt;
I posted the pixs of the plastic table top cover on my page 2 under
"Table Top Cover".
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
Hope this clarifies the overlay cover question.
I posted the pixs of the plastic table top cover on my page 2 under
"Table Top Cover".
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php
Hope this clarifies the overlay cover question.
Does anyone have additional input on this subject? I also have a laminated chart I would like to place on the dinette table.
I don't really like the safety glass approach because I worry about it breaking eather from my son sleeping on it or during the bed setup; a piece of glass that size adds quite a bit of additional weight to the table top.
Not too crazy about plexiglass rather, polycarbonate perhaps but it scratches too easy.
Was actually thinking of using the decoupage approach, but there would be no turning back if I used the original table so thinking of buying a nice piece of Marine plywood and starting from scratch; if that project fails the original table is still intact.
I've been in a number of restaurants with tables finished with perhaps fiberglass resin or something like that, not sure.
The other problem I see using plexiglass or something similar is the chance of it raising up in the middle, this would drive me crazy. I would have to screw it down and that would not be pretty.
So I'm hoping that someone has come up with a more creative or desirable approach..
I don't really like the safety glass approach because I worry about it breaking eather from my son sleeping on it or during the bed setup; a piece of glass that size adds quite a bit of additional weight to the table top.
Not too crazy about plexiglass rather, polycarbonate perhaps but it scratches too easy.
Was actually thinking of using the decoupage approach, but there would be no turning back if I used the original table so thinking of buying a nice piece of Marine plywood and starting from scratch; if that project fails the original table is still intact.
I've been in a number of restaurants with tables finished with perhaps fiberglass resin or something like that, not sure.
The other problem I see using plexiglass or something similar is the chance of it raising up in the middle, this would drive me crazy. I would have to screw it down and that would not be pretty.
So I'm hoping that someone has come up with a more creative or desirable approach..
colobear":5bj2hg4j said:Lexan??
huh, isn't that just polycarbonate?
The glass was not that that heavy, As I recollect it was 3/16" thick. We sat on it, slept on it etc-never stood on it however. The teak fiddles kept the glass in place,--never had any question or issue of the glass coming out of place. I suspect that the glass is still on the table--current owner of C-Pelican?
Both polycarbonate (generic--Lexan is a trade mark for polycarbonate) and Acrylic (generic trade name is plexiglass) will scratch, and can be obtained in "scratch resistant coatings" We made large polycarbonate windows which overlaid the original window openings on the Cal 46 pilothouse--about 1/4" thick, was very impact resistant. It had the "Scratch Resistant Coating"--but if anything sharp/hard hit it, it could make a scratch. The windows were still optically clear after 40,000 miles and over 6 years when we sold the boat.
I have a "laminated" map on the current C Dory 22--and somehow some moisture got under the corner, and it is delaminating. So just having a laminated map or picture etc on the table, does not warrantee it will not have issues.
Most of the professionally built tables are a clear epoxy. We made several in the past, with photos embedded in them. That weight is about as much as the safety glass. Just any epoxy will not be satisfactory, there are several special formulations such as:
http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/epoxy/ Look up the techniques about getting the "gas" bubbles out of the epoxy as it is poured. There are also acrylic casting resins. I think the Epoxy is better for table tops. If you start with plywood, you will want to be sure it is thick, and then put fiddles on the sides--teak are good--but any durable wood will work. It is going to be easier to get a good surface with a epoxy if there is a lip, and you don't have to deal with edges. You will have to finish the plywood, with some paint or surface which will be compatible with the resin. You might even consider some laminate surface. The epoxy should stick well, and it will be easier than trying to get a perfectly fair plywood, painted surface.
Both polycarbonate (generic--Lexan is a trade mark for polycarbonate) and Acrylic (generic trade name is plexiglass) will scratch, and can be obtained in "scratch resistant coatings" We made large polycarbonate windows which overlaid the original window openings on the Cal 46 pilothouse--about 1/4" thick, was very impact resistant. It had the "Scratch Resistant Coating"--but if anything sharp/hard hit it, it could make a scratch. The windows were still optically clear after 40,000 miles and over 6 years when we sold the boat.
I have a "laminated" map on the current C Dory 22--and somehow some moisture got under the corner, and it is delaminating. So just having a laminated map or picture etc on the table, does not warrantee it will not have issues.
Most of the professionally built tables are a clear epoxy. We made several in the past, with photos embedded in them. That weight is about as much as the safety glass. Just any epoxy will not be satisfactory, there are several special formulations such as:
http://www.bestbartopepoxy.com/epoxy/ Look up the techniques about getting the "gas" bubbles out of the epoxy as it is poured. There are also acrylic casting resins. I think the Epoxy is better for table tops. If you start with plywood, you will want to be sure it is thick, and then put fiddles on the sides--teak are good--but any durable wood will work. It is going to be easier to get a good surface with a epoxy if there is a lip, and you don't have to deal with edges. You will have to finish the plywood, with some paint or surface which will be compatible with the resin. You might even consider some laminate surface. The epoxy should stick well, and it will be easier than trying to get a perfectly fair plywood, painted surface.
potter water
New member
Just completed some bathroom woodwork and coated the top of the vanity with LIQUID GLASS over 4 years ago. That is the brand name. Great stuff and following the You Tube video on using the stuff, it went on crystal clear and after much water, soap, etc and cleaning it is still clear and solid. One caution is whenever you coat something with any clear epoxy, make sure that the surface is ultra clean, I mean pre-car painting class of clean. Bubbles do form, and a propane torch is used immediately after coating to kill the bubbles. It is a lot of fun to do and is really quite magical. Search you tube for liquid glass install, and you will probably be impressed.