swim platform question
- Thread starter breausaw
- Start date
Alyssa Jean
New member
The single swim step is just through bolted onto the transom and the edges filled/sealed with caulk. The biggest challenge is getting to the inside to get the backing washers and nuts on.
Just got off the phone with Dave at the Auburn factory who said the swim steps are available -$410 – and that if I talk with Fred he will walk me through installation. Looks like I’ll have to pull the Port fuel cell, but Fred’s the guy who will know.
I plan on swinging by the factory before retrieving Triple J for the long hall back up to Anchorage.
I plan on swinging by the factory before retrieving Triple J for the long hall back up to Anchorage.
I would consider using a boarding ladder hung on the gunnel for dinghy access. I have a swim step on our 25 and positioning the dinghy for access from the swim step is a little tricky. Much easier to tie off on the side and access from the ladder. Ladders are also a lot cheaper and do not require holes in the hull.
GOYO":2teu17ki said:
Whoa Steve,
So I guess the question is, what exactly do most of you use the swim step for…swimming? Don’t think we’ll be swimming much so perhaps your ladder approach would save me some cash.
The only problem I see is storing the ladder on a boat that offers little room for storing much of anything other then basic needs.
Suppose I could strap it up top with the Tender, or??
We use an inexpensive $75 aluminum ladder that hooks over the gunnel to get into and out of the water to swim here on Shasta alake in the summer, but it's no where near as stable as the one that hooks into fittings installed on the top of the gunnel like the factory option model.
The cheaper ladder strains under the weight of 200+ pound mariners, but if you fall into 78 degree freshwater that your were getting into anyway, who cares?
If I were going to use a ladder to get into a dinghy in the PNW, I get a very strong, rigidly mounted one with wide, flat, non-slip coated steps, etc.
Might still cost only a little less than the swim step, though.
What would really work would be a rigid, but removable ladder with a fold down swim step on the side of the boat, or, better yet, a swim step/platform attached to the bottom of a rigid removeable ladder. :idea
Joe. :teeth :thup
The cheaper ladder strains under the weight of 200+ pound mariners, but if you fall into 78 degree freshwater that your were getting into anyway, who cares?
If I were going to use a ladder to get into a dinghy in the PNW, I get a very strong, rigidly mounted one with wide, flat, non-slip coated steps, etc.
Might still cost only a little less than the swim step, though.
What would really work would be a rigid, but removable ladder with a fold down swim step on the side of the boat, or, better yet, a swim step/platform attached to the bottom of a rigid removeable ladder. :idea
Joe. :teeth :thup
Only problem with ladders is the one time you fall in and the ladder is still inside the boat. :sad
Most steps from the motor well can be reached from the water.
Do agree that some of the good ladders are much more stable and a good addition if you want to safely transition to a dinghy.
Merv
Most steps from the motor well can be reached from the water.
Do agree that some of the good ladders are much more stable and a good addition if you want to safely transition to a dinghy.
Merv
Ron on Meander
New member
We have the swim step on our 25. Wouldn't be without it. We use it for boarding the dingy, sometimes boarding at a dock, stepping to shore from the step when anchored, stern to, a sandy beach using our bungee anchor line, and for getting our dogs into and out of the dingy. It works well for us.
Ron
journey on
New member
On Journey On, we tie the dingy alongside either side, and embark/board over the side. The gunnel isn't too high, and if you tie the dingy fore and aft, it's secure enough to stand in.
We use the swim step as its name indicates, for entering the water, with the boarding ladder. However, the primary function of the swim step/boarding ladder is to get on the boat when it's on the trailer and out of the water. We use a small folding step to get to the ladder and then go from there. A third use is in going from the boat to the dock when the bimini is up, and especially with the side canvass on.
In summary, the swim step is great and worth it.
Boris
We use the swim step as its name indicates, for entering the water, with the boarding ladder. However, the primary function of the swim step/boarding ladder is to get on the boat when it's on the trailer and out of the water. We use a small folding step to get to the ladder and then go from there. A third use is in going from the boat to the dock when the bimini is up, and especially with the side canvass on.
In summary, the swim step is great and worth it.
Boris
It is apparently personal choice. I find the swim step a little precarious for loading and unloading from the dinghy. I find the boarding (stout ladder) ladder easier to use and more secure when the dinghy is side tied at both ends and I have things to hang on to. I use both the ladder and swim step to board the boat on the trailer. I store the ladder upright on the right side of the cabin door. Also a side note, I fell off my boat a year ago while cleaning it in the driveway and broke my leg in 6 places, may have something to do with desire to hang on to something any time I go on or off the boat.
On a C-Dory, mounting things in the engine well like a cooler rack, propane tank, generator, kicker motor, BBQ, etc. can certainly play havoc with the access to a swim step.
On a larger inboard boat, a full 9-12 foot wide by 3 ft swim step with a transom door makes for a very useful platform aft of the cockpit.
Joe. :teeth :thup
On a larger inboard boat, a full 9-12 foot wide by 3 ft swim step with a transom door makes for a very useful platform aft of the cockpit.
Joe. :teeth :thup
marvin4239
New member
I've got a swim platform plus the factory cooler rack. It's quite a trick getting over the cooler to the swim platform. A while back someone posted a ladder he had made that used a 1" stainless eye bolt and aluminum angle iron. The aluminum angle iron was padded and attached to the top of the ladder and went on the gunnel and the eye bolt was cut and slipped over the bow rail upright. It's great for use when beaching the boat. I fabricated one and it works great. On a 25 it could be used on the rear cockpit rails if you wished. You don't have to add any hardware to your boat. I tried to find the post but didn't have any luck. Maybe someone else remebers it. I don't have a picture of my set up but will try to get one and post it. Boaters World and West Marine both sell telescoping ladders that the set up can be fashioned from. In my case I already had a ladder that folds. The setup stores easily in the cockpit.
marvin-
Here's the bow ladder idea from Bill and Brenda Russell from a previous thread (link below).
I have been corresponding with Bill and Brenda about the Boarding Ladder and Seat Bench Project discussed previously. They have been very ingenious in following through with the original concept!!!
“I HAVE ADOPTED THE COCKPIT SEAT IDEA FOR MY 22 CRUISER BY USING YOUR IDEA FOR THE SEAT/BOARDING PLANK. THANK YOU.
I ALSO MADE A BOARDING LADDER THAT ATTACHES TO THE BOW RAIL OR THE FRONT CLEAT. IT IS MADE UP OF THE FOLLOWING:
1. THREE STEP FOLDING (BASS PRO) LADDER.
2. EYE HOOK (1/2'') WITH 1'' ANGLE IRON.
3. ALUMINUM L CARPET CUSHION.
4. ALUMINUM FLAT CARPET CUSHION.
IT FOLDS UP AND IS LIGHT WEIGHT.
MY LADDER WORKS GREAT FOR MY 70 YEAR OLD KNEES WHEN BOARDING FROM THE TRAILER OR WHEN BEACHED.
Here you can see the attachment set up. An eye bolt with a slot cut out fits around the rail tube and either a nut or roll pin can be used to lock the eye bolt onto the top of the ladder support. Note the cut out also in the inside edge of the aluminum bracket. The tolerance can be made so tight that the resulting unit rotates on and off the boat without having to tighten the nut or put in and remove the roll pin. End of eye bolt has been covered with a white rubber tube for protection from abrasion to passengers. Great Job, Bill!!!
Here you can see the extensions added to the legs of the boarding ladder to hold it out from the falling away angle of the hull. They have been attached to a carpet padded bunk designed to spread out the load and fit the hull. Bill used a Bass Pro Shops ladder, but it looks exactly the same as the Garelick ladder I have on my stern.
Here you can see the bench seat project in place and the boarding ladder stored. Note how neatly the carpeted pad helps hold the ladder quietly and securely.
Here is the link to theoriginal thread on boarding ladders, boarding planks, and such: (
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=1652
I also have a bow mounted boarding ladder project that is shown at the bottom of the first page in a few photos and text.
*******************************
Joe. :teeth :thup
Here's the bow ladder idea from Bill and Brenda Russell from a previous thread (link below).
I have been corresponding with Bill and Brenda about the Boarding Ladder and Seat Bench Project discussed previously. They have been very ingenious in following through with the original concept!!!
“I HAVE ADOPTED THE COCKPIT SEAT IDEA FOR MY 22 CRUISER BY USING YOUR IDEA FOR THE SEAT/BOARDING PLANK. THANK YOU.
I ALSO MADE A BOARDING LADDER THAT ATTACHES TO THE BOW RAIL OR THE FRONT CLEAT. IT IS MADE UP OF THE FOLLOWING:
1. THREE STEP FOLDING (BASS PRO) LADDER.
2. EYE HOOK (1/2'') WITH 1'' ANGLE IRON.
3. ALUMINUM L CARPET CUSHION.
4. ALUMINUM FLAT CARPET CUSHION.
IT FOLDS UP AND IS LIGHT WEIGHT.
MY LADDER WORKS GREAT FOR MY 70 YEAR OLD KNEES WHEN BOARDING FROM THE TRAILER OR WHEN BEACHED.
Here you can see the attachment set up. An eye bolt with a slot cut out fits around the rail tube and either a nut or roll pin can be used to lock the eye bolt onto the top of the ladder support. Note the cut out also in the inside edge of the aluminum bracket. The tolerance can be made so tight that the resulting unit rotates on and off the boat without having to tighten the nut or put in and remove the roll pin. End of eye bolt has been covered with a white rubber tube for protection from abrasion to passengers. Great Job, Bill!!!
Here you can see the extensions added to the legs of the boarding ladder to hold it out from the falling away angle of the hull. They have been attached to a carpet padded bunk designed to spread out the load and fit the hull. Bill used a Bass Pro Shops ladder, but it looks exactly the same as the Garelick ladder I have on my stern.
Here you can see the bench seat project in place and the boarding ladder stored. Note how neatly the carpeted pad helps hold the ladder quietly and securely.
Here is the link to theoriginal thread on boarding ladders, boarding planks, and such: (
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=1652
I also have a bow mounted boarding ladder project that is shown at the bottom of the first page in a few photos and text.
*******************************
Joe. :teeth :thup
Doryman":21jawg6j said:
The one pictured above on my boat is a Windline.
I can't say that Windline is better than Garelick across the board, but that one is quite substantial.
Look for stainless, not aluminum, and get as large diameter tubes as possible.
Then too, some designs are just structurally better than others.
It's best if you can go to a marine hardware store and look directly at any ladder you are considering purchasing.
Imagining how one fits on to your hull can be very difficult to do; you need to take it out of the store and put it against the hull and see how it fits. Take the boat along to the store and try out several alternatives.
Also, don't forget a railmaker's shop could always make a custom ladder for a difficult situation.
Joe. :teeth :thup
marvin4239
New member
Thanks Joe I searched for about and hour for this. I used a stainless Garlick folding ladder that I already had. If I had to buy one I'd go with the telescoping Windline. I had some adhesive backed rubber that I used in place of the carpet. The eyebolt idea really works well and is easy to put on and take off and very substantial.
marvin2439-
You're welcome regarding finding the article. I seem to be able to remember details that allow one to use the Search engine more effectively, and also know where to look in the Forums.
Either ladder arrangement works well. The advantage of Bill's design is that it can be taken off and stored.
Mind stores right where it is turned up inside the bow pulpit, and doesn't have to have a stand-off leg because the bow rail serves that purpose.
Enjoy your boat!
Joe. :teeth :thup
You're welcome regarding finding the article. I seem to be able to remember details that allow one to use the Search engine more effectively, and also know where to look in the Forums.
Either ladder arrangement works well. The advantage of Bill's design is that it can be taken off and stored.
Mind stores right where it is turned up inside the bow pulpit, and doesn't have to have a stand-off leg because the bow rail serves that purpose.
Enjoy your boat!
Joe. :teeth :thup