This weekend I installed a nice stereo system on our boat that is very simple, sounds great, and is really flexible and unobtrusive. Here's the basic parts breakdown:
* PolyPlanar MA7500W speakers (http://www.hodgesmarine.com/POLY-PLANAR ... a7500w.htm)
* JVC KDR530 head unit (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006B1C3UW)
* Metra 99-9000 under dash kit (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEV9S)
* 8 ft each of red, black and yellow 16 gauge wire
Originally I tried Polk Atrium 4 indoor/outdoor speakers, but they were too big in any position I tried (up front or upper back corners). The PolyPlanars are quite a bit smaller, and the bracket doesn't stick out so far, so there are a lot more options. I chose up front so we wouldn't hit our heads on them at the dinette, and also we can hear them well in the cockpit. From the helm seat, the speakers do not block the windows at all (at least for my height).
The JVC head unit has front and rear AUX inputs (3.5mm headphone) for most devices (iPad, phone, laptop). There is also a front USB input for charging devices, as well as using/controlling an iPod. I bought a 6 foot 3.5mm male/male extension that I ran down between the windows then up through the dash. This will allow us to connect devices and have them be accessible instead of having to put them up on the shelf while connected. There is also a remote for controlling volume, CD functions, as well as limited iPod control.
One other thing that's neat about many USB head units: you can load all your music onto a cheap USB thumb drive and leave that on the boat. You don't need an iPod/mp3 player -- the radio can navigate through the files and directories on a cheap storage device.
The Metra under dash kit worked well for installing under the shelf. I had considered other locations, i.e. under the steering wheel pointed up, but this location allowed better visibility and accessibility.
Installation notes:
I soldered and heat shrunk all the wires from the harness to the speaker wires and power wires. I could have used crimp connectors, but I've had those pull out or get scratchy sound with such small wire gauges.
I needed about 8 feet of wire run (red, black, yellow #16) to go from the head unit to the panel. I used braided loom to keep them bundled. I couldn't find white that day so I used black I already had.
The red and black wires run to empty slots on a Blue Sea expansion fuse block (http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/products/5025) that was already installed. The radio also has a 10A replaceable fuse built in.
Most car radios have an always on connection to the car battery that preserves radio presets, settings, etc. I ran a yellow wire (same color as on the stereo harness) to the terminal that feeds the panel bilge pump switch. This is fused at the battery (5A), so I didn't need to add an extra fuse.
Many radios have a lead that dims the display when headlights are turned on. This could potentially be wired to the nav light switch, and I believe the JVC even lets you pick the panel back light color independently for each setting. So you could potentially switch the display to red at night.
The roof section I installed the speakers into is cored. I checked this before hand by looking into the hole where the radar/VHF cables come through the roof from the radar arch. There is about 1/2" of core in that section of my roof. Be very careful to only drill through one layer of fiberglass.
I used 1/4" or 3/8" cable ties to run the speaker wires over the windows to the stereo.
I used some adhesive velcro to stick the remote to the stereo housing.
* PolyPlanar MA7500W speakers (http://www.hodgesmarine.com/POLY-PLANAR ... a7500w.htm)
* JVC KDR530 head unit (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006B1C3UW)
* Metra 99-9000 under dash kit (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEV9S)
* 8 ft each of red, black and yellow 16 gauge wire
Originally I tried Polk Atrium 4 indoor/outdoor speakers, but they were too big in any position I tried (up front or upper back corners). The PolyPlanars are quite a bit smaller, and the bracket doesn't stick out so far, so there are a lot more options. I chose up front so we wouldn't hit our heads on them at the dinette, and also we can hear them well in the cockpit. From the helm seat, the speakers do not block the windows at all (at least for my height).
The JVC head unit has front and rear AUX inputs (3.5mm headphone) for most devices (iPad, phone, laptop). There is also a front USB input for charging devices, as well as using/controlling an iPod. I bought a 6 foot 3.5mm male/male extension that I ran down between the windows then up through the dash. This will allow us to connect devices and have them be accessible instead of having to put them up on the shelf while connected. There is also a remote for controlling volume, CD functions, as well as limited iPod control.
One other thing that's neat about many USB head units: you can load all your music onto a cheap USB thumb drive and leave that on the boat. You don't need an iPod/mp3 player -- the radio can navigate through the files and directories on a cheap storage device.
The Metra under dash kit worked well for installing under the shelf. I had considered other locations, i.e. under the steering wheel pointed up, but this location allowed better visibility and accessibility.
Installation notes:
I soldered and heat shrunk all the wires from the harness to the speaker wires and power wires. I could have used crimp connectors, but I've had those pull out or get scratchy sound with such small wire gauges.
I needed about 8 feet of wire run (red, black, yellow #16) to go from the head unit to the panel. I used braided loom to keep them bundled. I couldn't find white that day so I used black I already had.
The red and black wires run to empty slots on a Blue Sea expansion fuse block (http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/products/5025) that was already installed. The radio also has a 10A replaceable fuse built in.
Most car radios have an always on connection to the car battery that preserves radio presets, settings, etc. I ran a yellow wire (same color as on the stereo harness) to the terminal that feeds the panel bilge pump switch. This is fused at the battery (5A), so I didn't need to add an extra fuse.
Many radios have a lead that dims the display when headlights are turned on. This could potentially be wired to the nav light switch, and I believe the JVC even lets you pick the panel back light color independently for each setting. So you could potentially switch the display to red at night.
The roof section I installed the speakers into is cored. I checked this before hand by looking into the hole where the radar/VHF cables come through the roof from the radar arch. There is about 1/2" of core in that section of my roof. Be very careful to only drill through one layer of fiberglass.
I used 1/4" or 3/8" cable ties to run the speaker wires over the windows to the stereo.
I used some adhesive velcro to stick the remote to the stereo housing.