Solar vent

M

Moxieabs

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2003
Messages
213
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1
C Dory Year
2003
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Widget
Hi all,
After having moisture build-up problems while stored in the slip, I have been considering a solar vent. Had one on a sailboat long ago that worked well. The new ones seem much larger vs the old one or perhaps Widget is just smaller vs the sailboat. Looks like the Lexan of the Bomar hatch is the place to mount it. Anyone with experience cutting the Lexan, or with the solar vent in general, I'd appreciate your comments before the point of no return occurs.
 
Just a vent won't do much, you need a way to get air IN as well as OUT.

Full mooring cover and dry storage keeps us dry, but on our docked boats I've always used a combination of solar/battery exhaust vent (out) and a louvered companionway hatch at the other end of the boat (in). Teak louvered panel set in a companionway hatch board on most of the sailboats (the J/24 had a custom louvered companionway hatch board). They also come in various types of plastic to match the C-Dory door.

If you're getting water in the boat via the "bilge" you'll have moisture problems despite venting. You leaving the bilge pump on line?

-- Chuck
 
I've got one mounted in the cabin top of the Lynn Marie. It's straight solar but if it ever gives up I plan on replacing it with a 12V/solar combo. The reason for the combo is that I mounted it just over the Wallas cook top and with a plate rack and piece of trim wood also on the ceiling it works as a range hood while we're cooking. The fan does not always run 24/7 since the battery won't completely recharge during the dark winter months,hence the 12v when I replace. It does work well and seems to do the job with just the one. In our 1997 the door doesn't fit real tight and there are enough other holes under the gunnels etc. so air does get in without an in flow vent.

Tim
 
Chuck,
Thanks for the thoughts. I do leave the bilge pump on auto, but we get frequent enough rain and the pump always leaves 1/4" in the sump area so that it is continously wet except for when we get a dry spell.
 
I mounted my Day/Night 2000 solar vent in the middle of my Bomar hatch. The Lexan is about 1/4 inch thick and I just used a 3.5 inch hole saw, cut half way on one side, then finished cutting the hole from the other side. Glued down the deck plate opening with Marine Goop after lightly sanding all the mating surfaces. The Day/Night 2000 works great if it gets sun all day, but after a couple of heavy overcast days, it does not run all night. A bummer as that is when you need it most if you are sleeping in the V-birth. All in all, I am very pleased with the location of the vent in the hatch and it does an excellent job of keeping the v-birth area dry when it runs. Now if I could figure a way to supplement the power for those gray days that don't fully charge the solar vent, I'd be very happy. :D

Jim
 
Sheeesh, just stick a sun lamp up there and shine it on the vent. I also installed one of those solar vents and it seems to help keep things dryer. I made some plexiglass spray deflectors for the windows that help out also. I can leave the windows cracked open and not get any rain in.
A hole saw, as mentioned, is the best bet, if a person wants to get serious about wacking & whittlen on plastic and related materials, a circular saw blade turned backwards works good
 
Ah Widget, the first C Dory I rode on!

As it happens, I am fresh from the experience of installation. I have a 2000 Day/night which I wanted to install. After putting it off for a week, I sat on the foredeck and thought long and hard about whether it would be the hatch or the deck behind the hatch. I called C-Dory to see if structure was an issue. They said no. A friend looked over my shoulder and urged the hatch, saying that if I made a mistake I could always replace that. I ignored his good advice because I didn't want to lose the light through the hatch. Also I figured if the boat was locked, someone could remove the vent or cover and reach through and unlock the hatch.

I measured and drilled a center hole, and scribed a circle. Then I went below and discovered to my horror that the interior was not shaped as I had remembered. The mating of the foredeck and the shelf over the V berth entrance is far forward of the windshield. Commited this far, I decided to move the vent slightly further forward, which would allow the 4.75 inch hole to end just in front of where the shelf starts. There appeared to be adequate room.

I took another deep gulp and started drilling and sawing. I had priced a hole saw (expensive) and bought a new keyhole saw (cheap). It took a lot of careful sawing. I managed to keep on the line (even if you strayed, the flange will be wide enough to cover problems). The hardest part was keeping the saw vertical, so the hole was same top and bottom. The hole came out fine, and the larger insert fit just right. To make the bottom insert fit, I had to cut the flange to fit - I cut it so there is a flat edge that matches the shelf edge. Then I gooped with 5200, and screwed it all in place. Came out perfect. The only bad part is that the 5200 might take a week to dry, which will keep me at home.

Conclusion: I am way glad I didn't put the vent in the hatch.

I'll show it to you when I am over your way, soon I hope.

Dave
 
Thanks for the input from all. Dave, I too narrowed it down to the hatch or the area between the hatch and the windsheild. Looks like I'm going with the hatch; easier to cut and my slip faces dead north and the cabin roof shades the area enough it may decrease the solar power effect. For those wanting to turn their solar/NiCad combo into a 12v option, I believe the correct resistor in the proper wattage would make it a three-way powered vent.
Dave
 
I put ours (Solar 2000) in the hatch. With a hole saw, it was a snap, and the little bugger keeps on running, lo, 14 months after I slapped it in. Things stay sweet and dry--I think enough air gets in without an "inny" vent. One thing though--don't use any of that magic windshield wax that makes water sheet off your windshield glass anywhere near the hatch--I did, and the Bomar is nicely pitted now, from the random spray drops, I'm thinking.
 
After having the NICAD battery repeatedly not kept my NICRO Day/Night 2000 solar vent running during the night, I replaced the NICAD with a standard "C" cell battery. To my surprise and delight, the standard dry cell "C" battery has kept my vent running for over two weeks and counting! And this is with many cloudy, rainy days during the two week period. So now I am just going to use the cheap, easy to replace, dry cell "C" batteries in my solar vent and the heck with the expensive NICADS that have not been doing the job. I love the job the vent does in the V-Birth keeping the moisture levels down while sleeping in there overnight. :D
 
In my limited trials, my vent has run through the night. But I keep wishing that the vent had a switch, so I could save the battery when I wasn't caring if it ran. Maybe it won't matter.

Another issue: how does the vent handle highway speeds? I wonder if that is a problem, and have removed it before trailering.
 
I, too, would like to hear from anyone who's installed a powered vent and added a switch. I've want to get battery powered vent with an on/off switch - but haven't found one.

Any suggestions?

Casey
C-Dory Naknek
 
The Nicro combination solar /12V vent may be the best bet. Run it on solar during the day and if the solar poops out simply switch the cable/switchbox to the CD's battery power. A little spendier than the straight solar, but to me the advantages far outweigh the modest cost differential.
 
Based on the recommendations in this thread, I bought a hole saw and bore a hole in my hatch. While I was fussing with the day/night solar vent, the weakened hatch split spectacularly, diagonally from hinge to latch.

Fortunately, I have web access at my slip and was able to order a new $450 hatch without breaking a sweat.

:shock:
 
.... for me, and I have had the solar one for several years now; would probably go with a switchable combo unit the next time :| and absolutely on the cabin-top :idea :thup where the bulk of all the stinky-air rises :crook (still gotta open the windows and door though---when I torch-one-off :oops: ---not a good fart-fan :crook )
I am constantly stepping on my hatch, for footing, I'd have ended-up in-the-drink if it were on the hatch. Just too rambunctious I guess :teeth :smilep
 
ouch, that just sucks
 
Ken: you said it. I don't know if the hatch window had an invisible, fatal flaw or what, but it sure wasn't a pleasant surprise!

Redfox, since I'm starting over...where on the cabin top did you put it? Dead center? I was thinking about over the stove.
 
CheckRaise":27dzi64y said:
Redfox, since I'm starting over...where on the cabin top did you put it? Dead center? I was thinking about over the stove.
Click to expand...

.... right up towards the radar mounting (rearward) Al on the Moose also put his here, looks spiffy there :tux

Someone was askin about how they do in a strong wind: I have busted-into a 40-knot blow in winter, when my hull speed was 16-knots :xseek freezing-spray and the whole-nine-yards :shock: Mine was fine I think, only a few drops of water came through in about an hours time, in these conditions. I have never had any rain-water leak through while in tow, speeds up to 70 mph.

Here's a little more for you: I remove the fan in it, on winter trips, since I am trying to hold-in as much heat as possible, while keeping the Force-10 cabin heater no higher than half way. Don't know about you gize, but I like it at least half way warm in there. My old Classic, has the open v-berth, most heat circulates quite well in there :thup If I ever get a newer C-D, I'm going to rip out that awful wall, separating the v-berth from the cabin.... don't know how yas can stands it like that... :x (hint hint ---factory) :teeth
 
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