SO WHAT DID YOU DO WITH OR ON YOUR C-DORY TODAY??

Finished adding 2 new 120v power outlets that connect to the 1000 watt inverter. I had one inverter outlet at the galley on the starboard side of the boat, and now I have another on the port side near the AC panel, and yet another near the cabin door (this last one will mostly be used for the 700w microwave).

Now I can easily run almost any 120v device from anywhere in the boat without tripping over a cord. I'm mostly looking forward to being able to heat up my coffee in the morning without running the generator every time (takes me 2 hours to drink a cup of coffee, therefore I heat it many times)! The microwave pulls 65 amps from the batteries, but it runs for such a short time for most things that the draw does not amount to more than a few amp-hours. Even heating up left overs for 3 to 5 minutes is only 3 to 5 amp-hours, but most uses will be far less than that.
 
Well, not just today, but over the last week, painted the bottom, installed new bimini (from Amazon for $150), rebedded two cleats, fixed a leak in the bilge pump area, oil change, and fuel filter change.

Thought we had a leak on the port side midships cleat. Pulled it off...it was only bedded with a TINY bit of silicone! Core was dry. Decided might as well pull the starboard side too while I was doing it. Core was wet! Used a bent nail in a drill to reef out some core on both sides. Dried with a hair dryer. Then injected epoxy, then thickened epoxy, and rebed with Lifecaulk.

Had water seeping in to cabin from area where bilge pump is. I have put fiberglass down twice to try and stop this as I thought it was coming from the wood joint. Still leaked, so figured it must be getting under the gelcoat where some was peeling up and seeping in that way. Well, I SHOULD pull the whole thing apart and fix it properly OR I could go get a can of Flex Seal and see if the stuff really works. Being lazy, I tried the Flex Seal! No more leak!!!!

Yesterday, I put it back in the water! Had enough fun for now!
 
Starting to install EOH on my LoadRite! Might take some time, lots to deal with.
Click to expand...

Hi Alain,
What are you changing? If it's already surge, it's a matter of adding the EOH actuator and a Break-Away battery. And then you can either weld the surge coupler solid, or replace it. I just did all that to C-Traveler. I can go thru my files to see where I purchased the Dexter EOH actuator and a new coupler. (Would have been the best costs I could find, both US companies with their own websites. ) The break away batter required was 9amp or more, and it was kind of hard to find as most are 5amp. I bought mine from Etrailer. In any case, the hardest part was finding a location to mount everything. I did all this work as I wanted electric, and the trailer had stainless steel disc. In retrospect, it would have been a helluva lot cheaper and easier to have removed the hydraulic brakes all together and just gone to all electric. But that's going back to drum brakes... Colby
 
Cruised to one of our favorite beaches almost 6.2 miles, for a walk.

Colby will like the huge snowdrifts on the beach!

I would be doing all kinds of things to this boat, if only it were not so perfect.

Day after tomorrow the days will be getting shorter, and winter is almost here.

Get on the boat!

20200619_134136_1.jpg

John
 
Colby, thanks for the offer but I already have all the pieces , I think.
I got the Hydrastar actuator kit from etrailer and a Tekonsha controller. You are right, figuring out where and how so secure the stuff is the real challenge.
I am building a small platform out of 1/4" aluminum for the actuator and the large electrical J-box. The controller won't be to complicated I hope as I think Ford has a factory installed plug somewhere under the dash (yet to be found)
Where and how did you install the battery? what about the connection between the actuator and the trailer brake line, it looks like I'll need a special connector there ? Just starting on this one, the Toad charger project was very straight forward compared to this, Alain
 
Colby, thanks for the offer but I already have all the pieces , I think.
I got the Hydrastar actuator kit from etrailer and a Tekonsha controller. You are right, figuring out where and how so secure the stuff is the real challenge.
I am building a small platform out of 1/4" aluminum for the actuator and the large electrical J-box. The controller won't be to complicated I hope as I think Ford has a factory installed plug somewhere under the dash (yet to be found)
Where and how did you install the battery? what about the connection between the actuator and the trailer brake line, it looks like I'll need a special connector there ? Just starting on this one, the Toad charger project was very straight forward compared to this, Alain
Click to expand...

The platform sounds like it'll be nice. I ended up just using some angle iron. not real pretty, but functional. You can look in my photo album. Ford should have the factory plug up under the dash, sort of easy to find. The issue will be in the 12vt accessory line. I found on my last Ford, it would not work without the Ford controller. So I just ran a new line from the truck's battery, back to the rearend, and then put that in the 7 pin trailer recepticle. The fitting on the hydraulic line that fit into the surge coupler, was the same size needed to fit into the EOH actuator, so it was just a matter of moving the line from one to the other. I located the trailer break away battery on the side of the bow stop post. Colby
 
We spent 5 days on Lake Pend Oreille on our CD22, Rising Sun. It was Great. Well, except for the short thunderstorm that snuck in on Wednesday.
 
Cruised to the Ft Pickens National Seashore bayside, hiked across for a 6 mile walk on the Gulf Beach.

Air 86 degrees, water 85, 300 ft social distancing.

The days are getting shorter! It can feel a bit frosty in the cabin (depending on the AC thermostat setting).

Get on the boat!
John
 
Heading up to Door County in a few more days, but in the mean time, still working on the boat. Here is the latest. You can see more photos in the C-Traveler nested photo album.

Webasto Heater Install
IMG_9048.jpg
IMG_9050.jpg

Putting new carpet on Bunk Boards
IMG_9058.jpg

New water heater
IMG_9065.jpg

Drawer under table
IMG_9070.jpg
 
colbysmith,

Your post is very timely for me. I just finished a "deep clean" of Tosca. In the process I discovered that the Webasto (Air Top 2000....likely the same model you used), has a mangled sealing ring in one of the caps to the diesel tank. It's a funny ring....not like a ordinary washer, but rather a washer with a groove cut into it that mates with a ridge molded into the cap (for a better seal I presume). I looked on the Webasto website hoping that the tank had come with the Webasto unit, and that spare parts were available, but I saw no mention of the tank on their site

The tank looks identical to the one in the photo above. Did your tank come from Webasto? If so, and even if not, do you know who makes/sells them so I can buy a new cap or washer?
 
Sandy, if it's the exact same tank in my photo, it's from the same company that sells/services the Wallas stove/heater, located out your way. Are you talking about the cap with the fuel pickup line and vent line running thru it, or the cap without? This is what the cap without looks like on the inside:

105693051_890455408116457_8389576770283390745_n.jpg

Is this the one you are talking about, or the other one with the fuel and vent lines? If it's this one, and you don't want to just replace the O-Ring, I think I can help you out. :) When I purchased the tanks for both Midnight Flyer earlier, and then C-Traveler recently, the tank comes with two caps already on it, and then the fuel pick up kit comes with it's own cap. Thus, I ended up with two regular spare caps.

If you are looking for the cap in the photo, I can send you one of the two spares I now have. Just let me know. Colby
 
Colby, thanks for the offer of a cap. In my advancing age I can't seem to remember anything. Right now I can't remember if that mangled seal came from the cap with the fuel pickup pipe embedded in it, or from the filler cap. I'm pretty sure it was the one with the fuel pickup. The boat is on its buoy at the moment. I hope to row out to it tomorrow; I'll have a look and get back to you.

My tank does look exactly like the one in your photo. I'll have a look at the Scan website since, like your tank, I suspect that is where my tank came from.
 
Back
Top