SleepyC on Vancouver Island 2016
- Thread starter hardee
- Start date
Big dave
Member
About 8 years ago I had bottom paint professionally applied. I think it was around $1200 dollars at the time. It really helped with the clean up, and if I could find something to apply to the transducer and lower unit of the motor my clean up problems would be over. I do spend a bit of time touching up the bottom but that really isn't an issue. I do still remember days of had scrubbing and re-waxing before the bottom was painted, for me it was a no brainer to have the paint applied, some years the boat will be in the water for 6 months with a fair amount of usage and I'm just not up to all the work it takes to remove the marine growth when it can be prevented.
Anyway that's me thoughts on the matter.
There are a couple good places in Port Townsend who can do a great job for you.
Dave
Raven Dancer
Anyway that's me thoughts on the matter.
There are a couple good places in Port Townsend who can do a great job for you.
Dave
Raven Dancer
Thanks Dave. A good coating of "Desitin" (zinc oxide cream), on the metal parts, (I did mine on the trimtabs only), will really make a difference. Next time I will also cover the transducer and maybe the engine parts also. Guess it might be a good idea to check with the mechanics or somebody that knows if that could have any adverse effect on the Outboard metal parts.
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
Harvey, with some trepidation like you, we bottom-painted C-Dancer back in 2011. Looking back, I'm glad we did. We've kept the boat wet-moored for at least 6 months or longer on 2 separate occasions and for periods of at least 2 months on 3 other occasions over the past 6 seasons. It's been totally worth it knowing that the bottom is protected. We have not really experienced any bad growth during those times, either that or the bottom growth completely sloughed off while underway. Plus, it kept our mind at ease knowing that if we went on cruises longer than a week or two, we didn't need to worry about excess growth. As Dave mentioned, the bigger hassle was the growth on the trim tabs and any metal that sat in the water, i.e. the skeg of my kicker.
The fact that we kept C-Dancer dry stored at Twin Bridges for the last 2 1/2 years helped keep the bottom paint lasting this long. I'm planning on having it repainted this spring and I'm not sure if I will be mooring again permanently in water again but if I do decide to do that, at least I know the bottom will be well-protected. The only thing I would add would be to paint the trim tabs, actuators and transducers with special paint for underwater metals.
For us, it was worth bottom-painting as it gave us versatility and piece of mind.
The fact that we kept C-Dancer dry stored at Twin Bridges for the last 2 1/2 years helped keep the bottom paint lasting this long. I'm planning on having it repainted this spring and I'm not sure if I will be mooring again permanently in water again but if I do decide to do that, at least I know the bottom will be well-protected. The only thing I would add would be to paint the trim tabs, actuators and transducers with special paint for underwater metals.
For us, it was worth bottom-painting as it gave us versatility and piece of mind.
Big dave
Member
About 8 years ago I had bottom paint professionally applied. I think it was around $1200 dollars at the time. It really helped with the clean up, and if I could find something to apply to the transducer and lower unit of the motor my clean up problems would be over. I do spend a bit of time touching up the bottom but that really isn't an issue. I do still remember days of had scrubbing and re-waxing before the bottom was painted, for me it was a no brainer to have the paint applied, some years the boat will be in the water for 6 months with a fair amount of usage and I'm just not up to all the work it takes to remove the marine growth when it can be prevented.
Anyway that's me thoughts on the matter.
There are a couple good places in Port Townsend who can do a great job for you.
Dave
Raven Dancer
Anyway that's me thoughts on the matter.
There are a couple good places in Port Townsend who can do a great job for you.
Dave
Raven Dancer
Peter, Thanks you for the reassurance that You did the right thing, and I think I am going that route also, because as Bill from Noro Lim said, the use needs have changed. Before, there was never time fore 2 plus weeks out on the water. Now, a week is about a minimum length, and 2 is common.
Here are some threads I found on bottom painting. Don’t know if you have been looking at them, but there are several dozen. For me the more relevant ones are:
Bottom Paint (Feb 2016)
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
Painting the Bottom
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
Epoxy Barrier Coats, (an older thread 2009)
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
And one a little off the topic,
Widespread Blistering of Hull:
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
Lots of good information in these threads, so I hate to start a new “Bottom Paint” thread, especially when there are 2 with exactly the same thread title, just different capitalization.
Maybe we should go back and bring up the Feb 2016 Bottom Paint
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
and use that one for the topic. I know it is a relevant issue for those traveling north for sure, because of the time in the water, so it’s OK we have some of that here too. But it will make this info harder to find later on if someone remembers reading something but not where. (That’s what I find myself doing frequently. –IE, “I remember there were milk, eggs and cheese in the refrigerator, but I can’t find the fridge.”)
OK, now ….
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
Here are some threads I found on bottom painting. Don’t know if you have been looking at them, but there are several dozen. For me the more relevant ones are:
Bottom Paint (Feb 2016)
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
Painting the Bottom
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
Epoxy Barrier Coats, (an older thread 2009)
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
And one a little off the topic,
Widespread Blistering of Hull:
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
Lots of good information in these threads, so I hate to start a new “Bottom Paint” thread, especially when there are 2 with exactly the same thread title, just different capitalization.
Maybe we should go back and bring up the Feb 2016 Bottom Paint
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... yers+epoxy
and use that one for the topic. I know it is a relevant issue for those traveling north for sure, because of the time in the water, so it’s OK we have some of that here too. But it will make this info harder to find later on if someone remembers reading something but not where. (That’s what I find myself doing frequently. –IE, “I remember there were milk, eggs and cheese in the refrigerator, but I can’t find the fridge.”)
OK, now ….
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
Hey Mike,
Yes, the bottom was professionally painted by the factory back when they were in Ferndale and they were doing service items.
After reading several threads on the subject, I had them apply 2 coats of epoxy barrier coat, I believe it was Interlux Interprotect 2000E and 3 coats of Interlux Micron Extra in black, which is an ablative paint. Actually the black looks pretty good once applied and it has done a good job for us.
I think when we have the bottom re-painted this spring, I think I might look at Pettit Hydrocoat SR, which is a water-based ablative bottom paint. I believe boats in Washington State will be required to use non-copper bottom paints in the very near future. Perhaps a brat can clarify.
Peter
Yes, the bottom was professionally painted by the factory back when they were in Ferndale and they were doing service items.
After reading several threads on the subject, I had them apply 2 coats of epoxy barrier coat, I believe it was Interlux Interprotect 2000E and 3 coats of Interlux Micron Extra in black, which is an ablative paint. Actually the black looks pretty good once applied and it has done a good job for us.
I think when we have the bottom re-painted this spring, I think I might look at Pettit Hydrocoat SR, which is a water-based ablative bottom paint. I believe boats in Washington State will be required to use non-copper bottom paints in the very near future. Perhaps a brat can clarify.
Peter
Last spring I applied 4 coats of Pettit ablative hydracoat ECO brand bottom paint, just before going on this years SE Alaska & Yukon River cruises. This is Pettit's latest addition to their bottom coat ablative line & is supposedly the most effective with the least harmful effects to humans & environment. It cleaned up easy with soap & water. I applied this over the original bottom paint that was painted in 2000 & then re coated by me about 8 years ago. It went on smooth & easy with preparation being rough sanding of the old paint followed by a good cleaning with acetone.
We were on the ocean for close to two months with hardly any build up & the little there was came off easily. This paint leaves a much smoother yet harder paint surface then the prior ablative paint it covered. The four layers were hard enough, so as to protect the gelcoat with only some scratches that didn't go all the way through the layers, during several severe gravel groundings on the Yukon River. It's only been one season sense applying, but thus far I'm very satisfied with the application process & all around bottom protection.
Jay
We were on the ocean for close to two months with hardly any build up & the little there was came off easily. This paint leaves a much smoother yet harder paint surface then the prior ablative paint it covered. The four layers were hard enough, so as to protect the gelcoat with only some scratches that didn't go all the way through the layers, during several severe gravel groundings on the Yukon River. It's only been one season sense applying, but thus far I'm very satisfied with the application process & all around bottom protection.
Jay
Robert H. Wilkinson
New member
NewMoon":3bn1ui9q said:
There is a way to pull boats off a trailer, building up cribbing under each corner of transom and a third fore and centered on keel. I have done it a number of times with smaller boats. To get boat back on trailer the procedure is reversed. A bit scary the first time but it works good, many marina's do this if they don't have a travel lift. Very simple - no expensive equipment to buy. I will attempt to remember all the steps and write them out if anybody wants to try it.
Might not work the best on some larger boats. Deep v's are trickier to crib up - 10,000 pds. on a bunk trailer would be a lot of friction, etc.
Regards, Rob
I would be interested in the steps as I might end up doing it in my driveway...
[
quote="Robert H. Wilkinson"]
There is a way to pull boats off a trailer, building up cribbing under each corner of transom and a third fore and centered on keel. I have done it a number of times with smaller boats. To get boat back on trailer the procedure is reversed. A bit scary the first time but it works good, many marina's do this if they don't have a travel lift. Very simple - no expensive equipment to buy. I will attempt to remember all the steps and write them out if anybody wants to try it.
Might not work the best on some larger boats. Deep v's are trickier to crib up - 10,000 pds. on a bunk trailer would be a lot of friction, etc.
Regards, Rob[/quote]
[
quote="Robert H. Wilkinson"]
NewMoon":1llax0t7 said:
There is a way to pull boats off a trailer, building up cribbing under each corner of transom and a third fore and centered on keel. I have done it a number of times with smaller boats. To get boat back on trailer the procedure is reversed. A bit scary the first time but it works good, many marina's do this if they don't have a travel lift. Very simple - no expensive equipment to buy. I will attempt to remember all the steps and write them out if anybody wants to try it.
Might not work the best on some larger boats. Deep v's are trickier to crib up - 10,000 pds. on a bunk trailer would be a lot of friction, etc.
Regards, Rob[/quote]
Bottom painting on a roller trailer can be relatively easy.
1. Paint the 90% part of bottom that is not touched by rollers with the boat on the trailer by crawling around underneath with your paint brush or paint roller. (Counts as your daily trip to the gym!)
2. Move the boat back far enough (about 10"-12") on the trailer to fully expose the part that was obscured by the rollers. (I used the trailer winch at the bow and some blocks and tackle to reverse the normal action and move the boat backward on the trailer.) Finish the paint job on the unpainted areas, then use the bow trailer winch to move the boat back forward. (Day 2 at the gym!)
No Lifting Required.(!)
This is seldom mentioned as an advantage associated with roller trailers vs. bunk trailers.
Saves time, money, and is less dangerous. :wink
Joe. :teeth :thup
1. Paint the 90% part of bottom that is not touched by rollers with the boat on the trailer by crawling around underneath with your paint brush or paint roller. (Counts as your daily trip to the gym!)
2. Move the boat back far enough (about 10"-12") on the trailer to fully expose the part that was obscured by the rollers. (I used the trailer winch at the bow and some blocks and tackle to reverse the normal action and move the boat backward on the trailer.) Finish the paint job on the unpainted areas, then use the bow trailer winch to move the boat back forward. (Day 2 at the gym!)
No Lifting Required.(!)
This is seldom mentioned as an advantage associated with roller trailers vs. bunk trailers.
Saves time, money, and is less dangerous. :wink
Joe. :teeth :thup
Robert H. Wilkinson
New member
Mike_J said:
As often happens, these threads go twisty turny at times, wandering some from the intended course. Based on the direction this one went, I found 2 other threads that take the bottom painting subject on their purposed course.
Here is "Bottom Paint" with lots of great info.
And this on is "What Bottom paint Do You have On Your Boat", which has more specific info and results.
Thanks to everyone for checking in, and for all the responses. I have been looking at Vancouver Island again for 2017. Nothing for sure yet, and lots of time to get it figured still, so keeping up with keeping on.
There are several threads about Port Harvey, one of my favorite places up in the Broughtons. Search "port AND harvey AND resort" (copy and paste that into the search box. Click on all terms and it will be one of the top results in the search.
Also check "Broughtons Summer of 2017" for some good ideas on great cruising grounds.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Here is "Bottom Paint" with lots of great info.
And this on is "What Bottom paint Do You have On Your Boat", which has more specific info and results.
Thanks to everyone for checking in, and for all the responses. I have been looking at Vancouver Island again for 2017. Nothing for sure yet, and lots of time to get it figured still, so keeping up with keeping on.
There are several threads about Port Harvey, one of my favorite places up in the Broughtons. Search "port AND harvey AND resort" (copy and paste that into the search box. Click on all terms and it will be one of the top results in the search.
Also check "Broughtons Summer of 2017" for some good ideas on great cruising grounds.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon