knot flying
New member
I have a 22 foot C-Dory Cruiser. I am installing shore power and I am looking for any suggestions as to the best position to put the shore power inlet.
shore power inlet
- Thread starter knot flying
- Start date
knot flying":3iheoe6i said:
It depends on what the inlet looks like and its dimensions, but a great place is up under the gunnel on the starboard side right behind the cabin, because it's protected from salt spray, rain, and wash water there, and it's close to the galley where the power can be used, and the distribution box hidden or mounted.
Joe. :teeth :thup
I installed a shore power system patterned after Don Anderson's install for the Jenny B. Below is the link showing how Don installed his shore power.
Jenny B Shore Power
See pics on the bottom of the page. And yes, I installed the battery charger and gfi outlet box under the galley against the bulkhead. It works great for us!
OOOPS! On edit, I see you're talking about the inlet. What Joe said.
Jenny B Shore Power
See pics on the bottom of the page. And yes, I installed the battery charger and gfi outlet box under the galley against the bulkhead. It works great for us!
OOOPS! On edit, I see you're talking about the inlet. What Joe said.
My inlet was installed in the starboard gunwale. It worked out well for me. I wouldn't change a thing if I were to do it again.
Don
Don
Here is an alternative location forward on the boat worthy of mention:
Shore power is the square on the left, and to the right is a water hookup. I have seen these features in action myself and they are very handy. The shore power up front can significantly reduce the power cord length needed and it tends to keep the cord out of harm's way nicely. When I went on a cruise with this Venture 23, there were two marinas where I could not reach the shore power with my gunnel mounted 25' cord whereas this boat could.
Shore power is the square on the left, and to the right is a water hookup. I have seen these features in action myself and they are very handy. The shore power up front can significantly reduce the power cord length needed and it tends to keep the cord out of harm's way nicely. When I went on a cruise with this Venture 23, there were two marinas where I could not reach the shore power with my gunnel mounted 25' cord whereas this boat could.
Socrateur":3sltt33y said:
Like most of the others, ours is located under the starboard gunwale. We carry two shore power cords. One is 25 foot and the other is 50 foot.
When we are "bow in" to slips we use the 50 foot cord, however for the past year we've found that we preferred to be "stern first" into slips, so the 25 foot cord works perfectly utilizing the "under starboard gunwale" location. On two occasions last summer (two different marinas), we had to use the 50 foot cord while "stern in" as the outlets were not next to the slip. That being said, regardless of the location of your inlet, you may still happen onto a marina where you will still need a 50 foot cord.
(So far, I haven't had to connect the two to create a 75 footer.... :roll: )
DaveS":23xowfpl said:
Uh what sort of connector do you carry that allows you to create the longer cord, Dave? My shore power cord has that big 30 amp marine shore power connector at one end and a standard 3 prong 20 amp receptacle on the other end. More importantly, where did you buy it?
:twisted: Don
Oh, and I never had any problem needing more than 25 ft. but I'd be a little leery of the exposed inlet on that Venture. We occasionally get green water over the bow around here and in a saltwater vs electrical stuff contest the saltwater always wins.
Sneaks":36118e5g said:
Both ends of each cord are 30 AMP, so there is not problem in connecting them together. If I encounter a marina with 20 AMP service, I have an adaptor that allows 20 AMP to 30 AMP. Purchased all of those at West Marine. Easily stored in the floor hatch under the dinette table.
I also have an adapter that goes from the standard household outlet to the 30 AMP shore power cord, so I can plug in to the outlet in the shop if I want to "power up" the boat while in the shop. (Usually, I'll plug this in the night before I launch the boat so the onboard charger is charging the batteries up).
The Tom Cats come with Galvanic isolators (at least mine did). It is right by the 110 V pannel. I don't think that it would be necessary on a 22, unless you left it in the water and either had a thru hull, or left at least part of the lower unit in the water.
The Tom Cats, have a thru hull fitting for raw water wash down, but also the aluminum engine bracket is in the water and has zincs on it.
The Tom Cats, have a thru hull fitting for raw water wash down, but also the aluminum engine bracket is in the water and has zincs on it.
marvin4239
New member
My 22' came from the factory with a Galvonic Isolator and I'm glad it did. With the factory cooler rack option my Suzuki 90 won't tilt up enough to come completely out of the water with the cooler in place.
Your best "protection" would be to use a "polarity" tester--basically a 3 LED device which shows that the hot, neutral and ground wires on the 110 circuit were properly installed.
As long as you keep the motor out of the water, there is little risk. If you have to have part of the lower leg in the water, then it could be a problem.
Even if the marina is miswired, the galvanic isolator might not protect the boat fully. Best is an isolation transformer--and that is not practical on the C Dory size boat.
As long as you keep the motor out of the water, there is little risk. If you have to have part of the lower leg in the water, then it could be a problem.
Even if the marina is miswired, the galvanic isolator might not protect the boat fully. Best is an isolation transformer--and that is not practical on the C Dory size boat.