securing batteries in compartments and other ?'s

F

ferret30

New member
Hey guys, when I was doing the big clean/detail job last month I took the batteries out of the compartments in the cockpit. One was a cranking battery and the other a house battery(?), one on each side. The starboard side has the battery selector switch, and is open to below with many of the lines to the engine running through it. The battery is tied down with a strap and prevented from moving laterally by some strips on the floor of the compartment.

The port side is an enclosed compartment (except for the drain at the bottom). There is nothing holding the battery in place besides friction. When we got the boat there were some empty sealed detergent bottles in the compartment (floats?) that probably helped keep the battery from moving.

If I want to avoid drilling holes/epoxying for now, how could I secure the battery?

Is the battery selector picking a battery for starting? Or does it select which battery or batteries to charge off the motor?
 
ferret30":1hglih7a said:
If I want to avoid drilling holes/epoxying for now, how could I secure the battery?

Is the battery selector picking a battery for starting? Or does it select which battery or batteries to charge off the motor?
Click to expand...

You can get a box for the battery that comes with a strap and two u-shaped fittings that the strap hooks to. These can be screwed down or, alternatively, held down with epoxy or 5200 (no holes). The box is a good idea b/c it keeps the terminals protected from shorts on the top (as long as you have enough room for it).

The switch determines which one (or both if it's a 1-2-both switch) of the batteries is in use AND being charged.

Charlie
 
Here's how I secured the group 27 house battery that goes in the port lazerette. What it doesn't show is the 1 inch holes I drilled for ventilation. My 2 cents worth is that you need to have some ventilation here. Lots of threads about mold/mildew due to water condensation and the hatch design.

DSC_0005_001.sized.jpg

Here's the starting battery on the starboard side...

DSC_0004_001.sized.jpg
 
It's funny, my starboard compartment was the one with all the green when I started cleaning. The port one just had some grease residue but was otherwise clean!

So when you're doing normal cruising, do you leave the battery selector on "both"? And when you're not using the boat (i.e. in driveway on trailer), do you select "off" (a.k.a. "neither")?

I just found out our CR-V has a radiator leak so I'll look for something to hold the battery when I go pick up the new radiator.

Thanks!
 
ferret30":1aifphg8 said:
It's funny, my starboard compartment was the one with all the green when I started cleaning. The port one just had some grease residue but was otherwise clean!

So when you're doing normal cruising, do you leave the battery selector on "both"? And when you're not using the boat (i.e. in driveway on trailer), do you select "off" (a.k.a. "neither")?

I just found out our CR-V has a radiator leak so I'll look for something to hold the battery when I go pick up the new radiator.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I never leave the battery switch on both. If something were to short in one battery, it could take out the other. I normally start on #1 (cranking), run for a while to recharge, then if I have used the house battery, I change to #2.
 
The only problem with how those batteries are shown (they wouldn't pass a Vessel Safety Check) is that if you drop a wrench or some metal object across them, they would short out. They need to be covered, either with a terminal cover or a full battery cover across the entire battery. Don't feel badly though, mine are the same way... Its a neat installation though!:wink:

When running, I leave my switches on "both" to charge all batteries and then switch to the house battery when anchored.

Charlie
 
Thanks for the pictures. Now I no what that little white plug was that I found in the port battery lazerette. The battery holder hid the hole and I did not know it was there.

I believe running on both works well for me but it is more important that you understand how the switch works so you can decide what you need to charge the most. Also, I have been told that it would be unwise to switch batteries across "Off" when motor is running when you change from #1 to #2.
 
JGrider":haqnzksu said:
Thanks for the pictures. Now I no what that little white plug was that I found in the port battery lazerette. The battery holder hid the hole and I did not know it was there.

I believe running on both works well for me but it is more important that you understand how the switch works so you can decide what you need to charge the most. Also, I have been told that it would be unwise to switch batteries across "Off" when motor is running when you change from #1 to #2.
Click to expand...

Actually, I run with all 4 group 27's combined into one battery. Never been a problem, but if I ran them all down a lot, I'd get the motor started, then charge one at a time to avoid hours of constantly maxing out the alternator on the engine.

Most all modern battery switches are "make before break" designs that connect to battery 2 before dropping the connection to battery 1, and vis'-a-vis.

The idea is to not drop the power to the windings and load on the alternator to zero while the engine is running, as it can cause problems, including diode (rectifier) damage, probably due to electrical surges. Please phone Drs. Edison, Tesla, and Westinghouse for further elucidation at 1-800-zap-bang. :phone

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Late, but I've finally remembered who makes those hold-downs shown in the TOP picture in Wandering Sagebrush. They're Attwood 9091. What I like about them is that they provide a secure hold down with clamps, not a plastic strap, AND they take up the minimum space.

For the spaces in a C-Dory lazerette, a battery box is just too big.

Boris
 
So the floors of the compartments wouldn't be cored, right? So it's probably acceptable to install something (i.e. battery clamp) to the floor with nuts/bolts and not worry about epoxy/sealant, right? Or does any fiberglass penetration regardless of coring need sealant? I have butyl tape but I can get 4200/5200 or whatever if I need to.
 
Sea Wolf said:
"Most all modern battery switches are "make before break" designs that connect to battery 2 before dropping the connection to battery 1, and vis'-a-vis."

Before reading that switching while motors were running could take out the diode I switched them all the time while underway. Always wondered why it didn't take out my diodes. Now I know & can go back to switching without the concern. Thanks :thup

Jay
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just curious as I am about to convert the one battery set up to a 2 battery. why separate the battery to port and starboard side? is it weight or they don't fit? i figured the 2 on the starboard side would balance the kicker on the port a bit.
 
Jake B":q8q02ez6 said:
just curious as I am about to convert the one battery set up to a 2 battery. why separate the battery to port and starboard side? is it weight or they don't fit? i figured the 2 on the starboard side would balance the kicker on the port a bit.
Click to expand...

I had two in one compartment on my previous 22 (on the starboard side). I used the other lazerette for a fish box. I had twins and no kicker so single handed, it was a bit out of balance but that could be managed by filling the fresh water tank. With a kicker, I think it would be nicely balanced. But to answer one of your questions, they fit.
 
In mine it would have been too tight with the 2 batteries, switch, ACR, 2 50A fuses and 50A house breaker. All that plus battery trays and terminal boots. I figured if I eventually want them both in the same place I'll put them in the port side to help balance a kicker.
 
just m2cw

I dont use wing nuts on battery terminals,instead washers, lock washers and a nut (nyloc nut).

After checking the battery terminals, I check the engine side terminals
 
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