SE Alaska & the Yukon River 2016

Jay..........

I once again am lurking and enjoying your adventures via your excellent writing. PLease keep it up for the remainder of your trip and stay safe.
If you happen to make a wrong turn and come up the Cook Inlet we live on the east beach one mile south of Cape Ninilchik and 40 miles north of Homer.
You are always welcome. Then I could get your "story" in person.

Jack on High Tide.
 
The weather in S.E. Is going to crap this weekend. Strong winds and big seas with lots of rain, up to four inches over the weekend. Looks like Tenakee might be a good place to be for a few days. I was planning to launch Blue Moon today and possibly meet up with you but it doesn't make much sense, given the weather. I made an error last night, saying Frederick sound when I meant Port Frederick. Hey, it was late. I tried to hale Hunky Dory on the vhf with no luck. I can often reach North Chatham but not TKE. Given your wise philosophy of early morning navigation, you likely arrived Tenakee Inlet hours ago. Hit the store in TKE early and you can score some great cinnamon roles. There is a really nice anchorage at Saltery Bay, on the south side of the inlet, not far, about five km southeast of TKE. Stay dry.
 
Have been following along and dreaming. Loved the report from G- Bay area and hope to some day make it into there. Like the idea of less competition on the waters. You two be safe and enjoy the seclusion. The first cruise ship for the Alaska routing is in Seattle this weekend, so you have a few more days.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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April 29. We made it to Tenakee early this afternoon with the weather window on Chatham Strait closing rapidly for it's projected 30 knot blow tomarrow & not much better Sunday. Today at 15 knots on the bow not to bad except in the tidal rip areas, where the big Boss anchor was getting a workout when it & the bow buried themselves in the on coming very steep short spaced waves.

There's only about 80 people here in Tenakee this time of year & we saw much less than that as we walked up & back from the harbor, the narrow one lane street going from the harbor to the the other end of town making for a nice 2 mile+ walk. Beautiful planted flower gardens are in bloom along with the wild ones & this along with the unique houses & the view looking out across the waters of the Inlet with the snow capped mountains beyond made for a very pleasant walk. We are now relaxing in the boat for the evening with it facing out toward the inlet, the town across the waters to our right & the same, but now unobstructed view in front as we had in town, as we watch the sun making its way toward the horizon with alternating blue sky's & rain showers passing overhead. There is a hot springs here located in a building near the very center of the town, but to me it's dungeon like & not appealing. We will wait for for one of our favorite hot springs do do our soaking, which is in Warm Springs Bay, where we plan to be in 3 or 4 days depending on weather.

The Tenakee Marina doesn't have restrooms, but the town does provide near its middle & just off to the side via a boardwalk out over the tidal zone a public restroom. It's in the form of a little one seater outhouse with a opening in the bottom to the tidal zone below. Just in case anyone reading this makes it up there & needs to use it, remember to bring your own paper as none is available there.

Fellow C-Brat, Steve Parsons emailed a long time friend of his who had moved here to Tenakee over 20 years ago, that we would likely be here today & Pete came down to the dock & we had a good visit with him here in the boat, where he shared interesting information about Tenakee & some of his experiences of living in this remote setting.

Day 11, 66 miles today & 546 total.

April 30. We were awakened early at at our dock space providing the previous evening beautiful view by being bounced against the side of the dock from our exposed to the wind & waves that had increased overnight. With having to move anyway decided to head out early to check out some of the other inlets toward the head of Tenakee Inlet. The waves weren't bad with them on our stern for a few miles, but then the wind & waves both increased & our checking out inlets turned into a search for a good safe hidey hole. We found one about 16 miles from Tenakee Harbor in a nook off the head of Seal Inlet. Twice we left the anchorage to check & see if we could proceed on up the main inlet, but both time were greeted by some big steep waves brought up by the very high winds now on the main channel. This was forecast for Chatham Strait, but not Tenakee Inlet. Made the best of it by relaxing & reading the day away, which at one point was interrupted to our enjoyment by a very young deer swimming by just a few feet off the bow of the boat as it crossed over from one side of our little nook to the other.

Tomarrow if weather allows we will continue on up to the head of Tenakee Inlet with needing to be back in Tenakee to top off fuel on Monday, which is one of only three days a week the fuel dock there is open. From there we must make it last till eventually reaching Sitka.

Day 12, 23 miles today & 569 total

May 1. We awoke to zero wind & smooth water, so with a quick pull of the anchor, we were off to explore the rest of Tenakee Inlet in the misty rain & have our coffee & breakfast while on the move. No whales or bears, but plenty of birds & an occasional deer along the shoreline. What really kept our interest was the ever changing views of this Inlet caused by the misty rain & fog over the waters & gold rimmed tidal zones, backed by the many varieties of trees in different hues of green with an occasional break through of the higher mountains & snow covered peaks beyond.

Upon reaching the head of this Inlet we found ourselves less that a mile away from where we anchored & took a nap at the head of Port Fredrick several days ago. By going out Port Fredrick, up Icy Strait, down Chatham Strait & then up Tenakee Inlet we have made almost a complete circle on the water of over a hundred miles & then became just separated by a narrow strip of land from where we started.

Just after reaching the head of Tenakee Inlet, the winds picked up causing us to seek shelter until they died back down in the early afternoon. When they did we made for Saltery Cove, which is the nicest one, we have seen on Tenakee Inlet & only 7 miles from the Tenakee fuel dock, where we plan to be in the morning at 10am to take on fuel.

Les/Sandy & Kevin/Laura, tonight we were visited by those ornery transducer wire eating muskrats, but as you know, we were properly prepared, so we will leave here in the morning with the Depth Sounder still working unlike you guys last year on Yellowstone Lake.

Day 13, 52 miles today & 621 total.

May 2. We made it to the fuel dock as planned at about 9:45 am, but the strong wind coming directly across the bay was driving 2 to 3 foot waves directly in to the creosote soaked pilings we needed to tie to for taking on fuel. With it looking likely the winds would continue to blow past the the 2 pm closing of the fuel dock & there not opening again for a couple more days, we decided to head out toward Chatham Strait & to find a nook to hide until the winds on both Tenakee Inlet & Chatham strait backed off & we could make for Angoon for fuel. We found the nook we needed, dropped the anchor & settled in watching the birds close by, when a short time later the only bear we have seen on our entire exploration of Tenakee Inlet showed up close by us on shore. About 3pm, I noticed the whitecaps were off the waves passing just off from our protected spot, so decided to make the three mile run out to see if Chaham Strait was now doable too. It was, with the waves left, being big, but smooth after starting to settle back down from the past three days of high winds. So we made the 24 mile run down & across Chatham Strait without incident. Just after getting into cell phone range of Angoon our friend, Les Fisher called & gave us a weather report for the next few days, which was all good for a change & told us it was good we waited out crossing till this afternoon, as it was small craft warnings here most of the day. We have found the normal access to VHF radio weather reports spotty at best with many days without any at all. From just after leaving Hoonah, we didn't have any reports, until shortly before reaching Angoon today.

Day 14, 47 miles & 668 total.
 
Steve, you were sure right about heavy rain as it did seem close to pressure washing at times. To bad about the storm stopping you from coming over as it would have been great to explore some with you. Like you said we sure liked Saltery Cove too & it was our favorite anchorage in Tenakee Inlet.

Jack, I sure appreciate you letting me know you enjoy my sharing & we do hope to get up your way.

Jim, thanks for the comment & I hope you do make it up here in 2017 or 2018. You won't regret the effort & expense to do so, if you do.

Harvey, yes Glacier Bay is special, but to me worth it only if done off season like we just did, I think Holkum Bay with its Tracy & Indicott Arms, Fords Terror & the multiple glaciers there actually a more condensed & awesome place then Glacier Bay & more easily doable in a small boat than Glacier Bay.

I know the cruise ships are coming & I'm not looking to the arrival of the big ones, but especially all the mini's that are now going into the more remote places. Thus far, we still haven't seen another cruising boat of any kind & very few fishing boats.

Jay
 
Jay,
I could not help thinking about you just moving up there to Alaska. Good to hear you and Jolee are out an about. The Wallas problem even annoyed me as I can't imagine having to deal with that let alone what you have to go through just get to the actual part. I hope all else goes well. How long are you planning to stay up there?
D.D.
 
Good morning Dave & pass on a Hi! & hug to Ginny. Yes, with the narrow good weather window we had for Glacier Bay & needing the dry heat up there, one of the last things we would have wanted to deal with was Wallas problems again. Our relationship with it continues to be a love-hate thing. This now, not so new one, we had shipped to us up here in 2012 never has put out the heat, we thought it should or the older one did & if turned to a low setting would flame out, so I think this pump problem with it has been there since new, even if it wasn't leaking then. At least the replacement of the pump has solved the low heat output. Now at the lowest setting it puts out more heat then the highest would before & no matter the temperature outside can now reach 70 degrees inside if desired.

We plan to be off the waters here in SE Alaska soon after the 1st week in June, then do the Yukon River followed with being back home to spend time with kids & grandkids in early July.
 
Brent & Dixie, I forgot to mention when we were in Auke Bay having the window replaced, tied up just across the long walkway dock from us was the Sea Ranger, the floating lodge we saw last year just before entering the narrows to the Bay Of Pillars. Up close the accommodations on it looked good but the large wooden vessel looks very rough just above & below waterline. I don't think any of us would have slept well on it.
 
May 3. We just left Angoon & are now started out back across Chatham Strait on very calm water & finally blue sky.

The locals guide to SE Alaska pamphlet & the cruising quide both come up way short on providing where to go for docking & fuel access in the small native town of Angoon. We squeezed by a large fuel barge last night checking out the long pier on the outside access to Angoon & didn't find any docks at all for town access, so went in the fast water, narrow channel behind & found the town Marina & separate fuel dock. This morning we went to the fuel office & the sign said it was closed on Tuesday & even worse when we found the owner it wasn't opened up at all yet from the winter shut down. Fortunately, they did a early start up just for us, so we are topped off on fuel for the boat & diesel for the stove. We took on 35 gal of gas for the last 210 miles of running giving us a very good 6 mpg & we have now gone through 6.5 gallons of diesel in the Wallas in 2 weeks. The people we met in Angoon could not have been more friendly & helpful to us roving strangers.
 
The residents in those small Alaskan town are friendly people. You'd be too, if you hadn't seen anybody new all year. If you weren't glad to see a new face, and there are some, you' be a misogynist. (If I got that word right.)

Boris
 
May 3 continued. It's evening & the sun is setting on an extraordinary good day. Following the smooth crossing we again checked out beautiful Takatz Bay, of which from our first time there, we have made it a ritual to always go back in, if passing by even if just for a few minutes. The miracle of modern technology then let us Skype with one of our grandkids & parents just outside the the entrance. Then upon arrival at Warm Springs Bay, we found only one other boat & they are caretakers here. On the way into the bay we passed a whale & a couple hours later it was all around the dock & right up to the huge water fall seeming to enjoy the fast current there. It was a wonderful experience & not one we've ever enjoyed before. To top it all off we both soaked for a long time in the hot spring water, while watching the last of the sun shine off the snowy peaks above the sides of the bay. Th only down side is we saw our first other cruising boat today, while crossing Chatham Strait & know many more are on there way.

We noticed for the first here, that the IPad AT&T Internet & AT&T cell phones can be accessed from the plane float off the edge of the boat dock, so I can can just walk down the dock & send this into cyber space from Warms Springs Bay, Alaska.

Day 15, 47 miles today & 715 total
 
Good to hear that AT&T now has connectivity at Baranof Warm Springs! Previously I remember that the back of the bay was pretty cut-off - not even a VHF signal (so getting wx wasn't even an option).

Mary's FAVORITE place in all of SEAK was BWS.

Best,
Casey&Mary
 
May 4. We were rudely awoke in the middle of the night by a large 90 some foot fishing tender wanting dock space. We moved our boat out of the way for them, but they hit the old dock very hard & now it's got an even bigger bow in it. I noticed all but the two steel support pilings are easily moved about by hand, & this dock won't take many more hits like this one. The Captain who wants to wait out here, some more gales in the Gulf Of Alaska is on their way to Bristol Bay, but could have easily just anchored & waited until morning to dock. On the good side it's named Whale & the whale that was around the dock & falls last night returned this morning for an even better show. There's a group of whale researchers staying here for the summer & the leader says they think this whale has figured out a new source of food in close to the dock & water fall as there normal food has not arrived here yet, but this one was bubble feeding on fingerlings. Les & Sandy, I'll bet it's the same one you guys saw here around the dock last year.

Casey, unlike Mary, this normally may not be our favorite place, as we prefer the more remote, but with all it has to offer, like the beautiful walking trails, hot tube soaks at any time, the magnificent views all around including huge water fall, a free dock to tie to & now the visiting whale it's making for us a very hard choice to move to Red Bluff bay, while the weather window is open tomarrow or be weathered in here until the next big front goes by. It's a tough call but either one will be wonderful, so more like choosing between two gold nuggets of different shape.
 
Jay,
Very good to hear about the fuel in Angoon. Earlier this month, there was an article about them closing down due to an initiative to bring in pellet stoves and they were concerned about not being able to make it with the lost revenue.
Thank you for the update!
Julie
 
May 5. The storm has arrived & we are being rock & rolled at the dock here in Warm Spring Bay this evening.

This has been another fantastic whale watching day with Hobo (this is what the whale research group here has named her) the 42 foot humpback coming in close to the dock & feeding on fingerlings three times. Also the resident otters & mink are good for an occasional showing & in between us soaking in the hot pool. We added to this during the day, while making a run out to the bay entrance for faster internet to post whale whale watching & video on face book, a run up a narrow channel into a lake just east of the dock. Fantastic views up there, that I knew about from taking the Mokai there in the past. We checked it out during low tide & decided it couldn't be any worse at high tide than some of Lake Powell's narrow Canyons we have explored. It turned out no problems with much fun doing. JoLee got a good video of it on the old IPad.

12 miles today, & 727 total
 
Hi Jay,

Enjoying your posts. Thanks. Guess it was better to have to wake up and move that have that guy raft to you :shock: :lol:

I was at Browns Bay Marina, Campbell River last summer for a night. A big (90ish foot tender came in at about 2300, and about MN there was a huge ruckas at the dock. It was the manager and the captain fighting, (actually shouting from the dock to the wheelhouse), about him tieing to the fuel dock even though they were closed and the skipper had supposedly arranged ahead of time to be able to fuel at 04 and be off the dock by their opening time. Long story short, the skipper didn't win, but the moored boats got the wake-up ride of the night when he left with the thrusters on at full power, and the mains at close. Equaled about 3 foot waves in the marina. It would have been a better night at a quiet anchorage anywhere else.

I have seen a bit on the news twice in that last week: A short video of a humpback whale feeding in a bay very close to a dock and the boats tied there. Maybe they are learning and passing the info from individual to individual.

Thanks for the updates. Stay safe.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Jeff & Julie, we didn't know anything about the Company providing fuel in Angoon having problems, but yes, good to know they are opening back up now. Next time, I will call them before passing up fuel elsewhere.

Harvey, good story. Last night we had two large tenders tied up here waiting out the storm out on Chatham Strait & the Gulf. Today a large 65' charter boat "Suveyor" replaced one of them. Last year when we were with Brent & Dixie, we saw it by Slocum Arm on the outside Chichagof wilderness area & then again later tied to the dock at Sitka.

Today, we tried to use the hot tubs & for the first time here, the water was brown with the tannic run off from the very heavy rains & to cold to be comfortable, so after a good walk in the rain we are reading & relaxing in the boat this afternoon. A big tide is coming tomarrow morning with a 22 foot difference between high & low.
 
May 7. After a long hot tube soak we have left Warm Springs Bay & the whale. It was tough to do, but we are heading directly to our favorite place, Red Bluff Bay & after the big storm have a good weather stretch to look forward to.. It may even last long enough for us to get around Cape Ommaney.
 
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