After a lot of thought on adding A/C, I finally decided to make that happen. Photos are in my photo album.
The issue: Living in Central Texas, A/C is appreciated most anytime. I did not want to cut a hole in my roof. I felt it would add top weight to the boat, it was an expensive option, and I'm just generally against cutting holes in boats. So, I went with a window unit in the starboard rear window. I saw where Texair had done the same in his boat, "Bixby's Cub", so I traveled down to Katy to see him. He was good enough to show me his CD22 for a couple of hours.
Step 1 - Remove the starboard rear window. More of a problem than I thought. I really found it useful to use a product called Marine Formula (pic in my album) to help dissolve the "gooey" adhesive that holds the glass in. An important note, the glass is help with this adhesive to a metal frame. This metal frame extends into the opening for the glass about 1/2 inch. This is important when we go back with our own frame.. Once you remove the adhesive, you must get your putty knife under the glass from the inside (the outside is relatively easy). Once you can get under the adhesive from inside, work that all the way around the glass, and the glass will push out, intact towards the rear of the boat.
Step 2 - use the glass as a model, or pattern, to create 2 wooden frames. I used plywood. I need 2 frames as I am going to "sandwich" them together around that 1/2 extension that is still in the boat. I made 2 cutouts in each frame. One for the A/C unit and one for a window.
Step 3 - I had only hand powertools, so I used a skill saw to cut out the forms and the cutouts, and them used a belt sander to shape the cutouts and the frame.
step 4 - after all the fitting is done (easier said than done) I painted the forms.
Step 5 - assembly the 2 forms in the boat, sandwitching them together. For the window, I used plexiglass, also sandwitched between the frames. The plexiglass is also held in place by screws. (drilling holes in plexiglass can be done.....do it slow to avoid cracking)
step 6 - frames are now in, being held in the boat by about 10 bolts, close to the edge. I then installed the gasket from the original window.
Step 7 - install the a/c unit in the boat. I secured it with screws into brackets which came with the a/c unit. I also created a support bracket braced off a handhold which was already in the boat.
STep 8 - wiring was simply snaked through into the cabin, and plugged in to an existing 120 plug which is wired in to my shore power situation. I can also use a EU2000 generator to supply "shore power" so I can use the a/c while on the hook.
Pictures are in my album.
(note. it is now 70'F in the cabin. Temp outside is about 90....
The issue: Living in Central Texas, A/C is appreciated most anytime. I did not want to cut a hole in my roof. I felt it would add top weight to the boat, it was an expensive option, and I'm just generally against cutting holes in boats. So, I went with a window unit in the starboard rear window. I saw where Texair had done the same in his boat, "Bixby's Cub", so I traveled down to Katy to see him. He was good enough to show me his CD22 for a couple of hours.
Step 1 - Remove the starboard rear window. More of a problem than I thought. I really found it useful to use a product called Marine Formula (pic in my album) to help dissolve the "gooey" adhesive that holds the glass in. An important note, the glass is help with this adhesive to a metal frame. This metal frame extends into the opening for the glass about 1/2 inch. This is important when we go back with our own frame.. Once you remove the adhesive, you must get your putty knife under the glass from the inside (the outside is relatively easy). Once you can get under the adhesive from inside, work that all the way around the glass, and the glass will push out, intact towards the rear of the boat.
Step 2 - use the glass as a model, or pattern, to create 2 wooden frames. I used plywood. I need 2 frames as I am going to "sandwich" them together around that 1/2 extension that is still in the boat. I made 2 cutouts in each frame. One for the A/C unit and one for a window.
Step 3 - I had only hand powertools, so I used a skill saw to cut out the forms and the cutouts, and them used a belt sander to shape the cutouts and the frame.
step 4 - after all the fitting is done (easier said than done) I painted the forms.
Step 5 - assembly the 2 forms in the boat, sandwitching them together. For the window, I used plexiglass, also sandwitched between the frames. The plexiglass is also held in place by screws. (drilling holes in plexiglass can be done.....do it slow to avoid cracking)
step 6 - frames are now in, being held in the boat by about 10 bolts, close to the edge. I then installed the gasket from the original window.
Step 7 - install the a/c unit in the boat. I secured it with screws into brackets which came with the a/c unit. I also created a support bracket braced off a handhold which was already in the boat.
STep 8 - wiring was simply snaked through into the cabin, and plugged in to an existing 120 plug which is wired in to my shore power situation. I can also use a EU2000 generator to supply "shore power" so I can use the a/c while on the hook.
Pictures are in my album.
(note. it is now 70'F in the cabin. Temp outside is about 90....