RuleMate 1100 replacement in 16' Cruiser

R

rjg

New member
Greetings bratties. I recently acquired a 2006 16' Cruiser. One of the improvements I'd like to make to "name pending" is replacement of the base of the RM1100 bilge pump. One of the 2 latch points which retains the upper "works " of the pump has gone missing. (I will test the pump for functionality--if it fails I will be replacing the entire 3-wire version pump.) The problem is in how the RM1100 base is attached to the hull. No visible screw attachments, which is a relief in a way. But it appears the plastic base is really bonded to the rough hull interior bottom--? as in epoxied or glue welded. I don't relish getting out chisels and other major surgery tools. If someone can confirm the base is epoxied or glue welded in place, my tendency would be to leave the problem base in place while carefully "dremeling off" the side, or vertical edges. I would then attach a replacement base/new pump (as needed) to the original base horizontal. I would probably silicone the replacement in place, assuming durable bonding properties between the old and the new.

Please & Thank you for some "bratty advice." rjg
 
rjg":26p3u0l8 said:
Greetings bratties. I recently acquired a 2006 16' Cruiser. One of the improvements I'd like to make to "name pending" is replacement of the base of the RM1100 bilge pump. One of the 2 latch points which retains the upper "works " of the pump has gone missing. (I will test the pump for functionality--if it fails I will be replacing the entire 3-wire version pump.) The problem is in how the RM1100 base is attached to the hull. No visible screw attachments, which is a relief in a way. But it appears the plastic base is really bonded to the rough hull interior bottom--? as in epoxied or glue welded. I don't relish getting out chisels and other major surgery tools. If someone can confirm the base is epoxied or glue welded in place, my tendency would be to leave the problem base in place while carefully "dremeling off" the side, or vertical edges. I would then attach a replacement base/new pump (as needed) to the original base horizontal. I would probably silicone the replacement in place, assuming durable bonding properties between the old and the new.

Please & Thank you for some "bratty advice." rjg
Click to expand...

I've seen them put in a number of different ways - 5200, epoxy, JB-weld, screws. But if yours is bonded down it's most likely 5200 or epoxy. There's no particular downside to what you propose other than the pump will be a bit higher in the bilge (e.g. raised by the thickness of the remaining base). 4200 would hold it firmly especially if you rough up the bases as bit when applying. I wouldn't use silicone since it can be a PITA to get off of a surface if you ever want to do anything else in that area (re-epoxy, paint etc).

However if it were me, I'd probably remove the old base - either with some gentle tapping with a chisel or with the dremel tool to cut under the base. If it is epoxy or JB weld that is holding it down, it may come up easier than you think. However, I certainly understand the concern that you might bring up a little glass that is attached to the base. I wouldn't worry about that as it's quite easy to mix up a little thickened epoxy and fill in any chips.
 
On my 2006 16' the pump base had some sort of adhesive (it cured hard and was over the entire base) that held the pump base to the hull. I never replaced the pump so I don't know how much work it would be to remove the base. If it were me, I would pry as much of the base off as I can and then use a grinder gently to remove the remaining. However, I would not use silicon to attach the new base. I would probably use some type of epoxy, but only on a small part of the base so in the future the base would be easier to remove. I am sure others on this site may have additional ideas.

Good luck!
 
I generally use a "soft" adhesive such as 4000 or 4200 by 3M. I figure a bilge pump lasts a few years maybe so you want it easy to change out. My new 22 had sealant and 3 screws holding it down. ( I specified no screws there on my order). Fortunately I checked when new and filled the holes with epoxy then 4200 to secure. Heat from a hair dryer or solder gun may help you remove the base.
 
rogerbum, Rcbeach and ghone, I really appreciate your responses to my RM1100 pump situation. Once I've resolved the situation I will post what was found and the solution chosen. Thanks. rjg
 
Oh I read your post the other day and forgot the woes I had with that crummy blue plastic base. I broke two on my B Whaler, so I took a new one to a frabration shop and had them make me one out of metal, well it never broke again. I run a 16 cruiser now and have for two years managed to not break this one, how ever if it does I'll go back to the shop and have one fabracted, oh I'll also get it powder coated instead of paint. Good luck, I sure hate having to lay on the floor and do that kind of work. :cry
 
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