RUB RAIL REPAIRS (I THINK THAT'S WHAT IT IS CALLED)

B

bschell

New member
I HAVE A 2003 22' CRUISER, AND MY NEXT PROJECT ON THE BOAT IS REMOVING THE BLACK RUBBER RUB RAIL AROUND THE BOAT. THE FACTORY INSTALLED THESE SILLY ANCHORS (NOT THRU BOLTED) TO HOLD THE ALUMINUM RUB RAIL RETAINER TO THE BOAT.
MY QUESTION, HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE RUBBER, AND THEN, HOW DO
YOU REINSTALL IT.

BRIAN SCHELL
 
Just pull it out. Best put back in with a scew driver (broad tip-1/2" wide). You may want to put a little silicone seal in when you put the vinyl back in the extrusion. (not sure if you mean end caps which look like anchors?).
Usually it is just fitted in the grove, and sometimes a plastic end cap installed.
 
HEY BOB,

THANKS, THE END CAP I GET! IT'S THE SHABBY WAY THE EXTRUSION
IS MOUNTED. I WILL GIVE IT A GO!

THANKS FOR YOUR KIND INFORMATION

BRIAN SCHELL
 
Brian,

My rub rail came lose in several places. I pulled the rubber insert strip out from the transom and half way down both sides.
Then I drilled thru the aluminum strip and the fiberglass hull and put in #6 stainless bolt with fender washer backing and a nylock nut. I did this between each failed rivet. Then replaced the rubber strip, As told above.....a little silicon spray and a wide screwdriver blade did the trick. Keep the rubber pulled tight so that it meets end to end when done.
 
Brian,

I undertook the same project as my rub rail was separating in several places. I my case, I removed the rivets completely and the used the same hole to install SS bolts, fender washers and Nyloc nuts. I pulled the rubber out easily once you get the end of the bumper up and out...just pull the rubber out and clean it and use ArmorAll to brighten it up. I then took the aluminum rail completely off...also a good chance to clean it up. It will take 2 people to do the re-install as you need someone on the inside to put the washer and nut on. I also stuck the tip of a caulk gun into the hole through the rail from the outside and when my partner saw caulk in the hole on the inside, I pulled the tip out while still pushing caulk so that I got caulk in the space between the back of the rail and the boat. After all screws were installed the rubber rail was easy to install with a rubber mallet. Screws and washers in each end of the rubber keeps it from pulling back short.
You can view pictures of this project in our Album.

Good Luck...Tad
 
I have been looking at the C Dories for some time. The first thing I noticed were the dimples in the cabin from the rubrail. Very unsightly and very unprofessional. I don't understand how the factory knows it is a problem and makes no attempt to correct it. That's the question that people should be asking. It makes me wonder about the rest of the boat too. Kevin
 
The C dories have the hull to deck joint glassed together, so that this gives the strongest Hull to deck joint available. This joint is a source of failure and leaks on many other boats. The pop rivets only hold the rub rail (which both hides the joint on the outside, and gives protection to the hull), and are not structural as the rivets are in may other boats.

I barely notice the small lump over these--and although they are present, I don't see them as a negitive--it tells you where these are.

Consider that the C Dory is a utilitian interior. If you want a gelcoated perfectly smooth interior which hides a number of structural defects, then you will not see the rivets. I prefer the utilitiarian interior--and If necessary I can turn the hose on the boat and wash it out, or see where a leak may come from. Inciently having owned 3 C Dories, I have yet to have a leak from a rub rail. Most other boats I have owned, involved chasing down leaks.
 
It is not that the "bumps" are a visual problem, but to me, more that the factory sees the rub rails popping out with this rivit installation. Why not nut and bolt when the boat is being built and allow the new owners more time on the water enjoying their boats then spending hours drilling and fixing what could/should have been done properly in the first place? I know that my rub rail is pulling away in some places and the fix is not appealing. Many of the projects that I have done on my boat were to customize for my enjoyment, not to make a repair that could have been avoided.

Just my 2 cents.

John
Swee Pea
 
Maybe this is a problem on newer boats? I didn't have any problems on the 1992 C Dory22 and don't have on the 2003 25 nor the Tom Cat. When you drill and put a bolt and nut on it, you then have a hole in the hull which can leak. It is much more difficult to epoxy over the bolt--but can be done.

I don't know what rivets are being used--Monel is the best metal and is what I would use--if Alumium is used, it may be the problem. Consider that putting in bolts and nuts requires two people and several more steps--if you want to pay more for the C Dory (most boats are built to a price point) then I suspect that you would pay at least $100 more.

It might also depend on what sealant adhesive is use--if you use 5200, then there is much less chance of failure than if you use a silicone or lifecaulk or Bostick.
 
Am I wrong, or don't the rivits go through the hull anyway? Then they are coated with a sealer and then painted over?

I would have gladly paid an extra $100 for my boat knowing that the rub rail was put on properly. $100 extra on top of the price of a $50,000 boat, financed for 15 years, would be about a penny a month. As a matter of fact, I am willing to pay the factory or one of their reps $100 now to fix the problem. That's not going to happen.

The point to me is that this rub rail problem is not supposed to happen, should not happen, and is obviously a manufacturing design flaw, whatever the reason. It is happening to far too many C Dorys. My theory is that water gets behind the rub rail and sits there. Winter comes and freezes behind the aluminum rub rail and forces it out. Whatever type of rivits are used don't hold. Could be wrong about the cause. Not wrong about the rivits not holding.

I do not know what/how the factory has sought to correct the problem on new boats, but it is not a fluke. It happens. It is my understanding that the only way to fix the problem now is to bolt through. To add to the problem, some of the rivits are inaccessable due to interior builds. Or, you have to be a contortionist to attempt to access all the rivits.

Don't get me wrong. I have been tremendously happy with my C Dory. But this rub rail thing could have been avoided. It is the one sore spot that aggravates me. I agree that I am not a boat builder... but someone should have seen this coming. It especially irritates me because I know I am going to eventually have to deal with it and from the looks of the fix process, it is not one of those fun weekend projects.

John
Swee Pea

P.S. The other thing I have been watching for are osmosis blisters that seem to appear in green hulls, 2004 vintage. Swee Pea is a green hulled 2004 vintage.
 
John,
The hull to deck joint is one of the biggest problems in all boat construction. The best way is to glass over it--and that is what C Dory does--less than 10% of boat builders do that. Some boats have actually had the hull to deck joint separate when underway--and some have been lost due to that. (including some very expensive boats).

If there is a major problem currently, then they need to do something differently. No excuse for having problems. The financial problem is not just that $100 (if that is what it is) but it is multiple $100 extra problems. More glass here, more plywood there, undercutting and epoxy all holes in the core and deck etc--These things are just not right either--and those who are maticulous about their boats will fix them. Others will not--and eventually there may be some problems.

Almost every boat I have owned (except the C Dories) I have had to go through and redo some of the hull to deck joint. Some were much more of a problem than just putting in a few bolts and nuts. If you have read the problems I had with the Tom Cat 255, you would know my unhappyness with some of the quality control issues with c Dory.

I'm not defending C Dory--just pointing out the facts of life in the boating world.
 
Swee Pea,
I'm glad somebody seems to agree with me regarding the design flaw in the rub rail installation. Who wants to spend 50K on a boat and then be aggravated fixing something that should not have to be fixed in the first place. Don't get me wrong, I think these are very good boats and would like to own one someday. No boat is perfect, but I think the factory needs to address this immediately, and without being pushed. Isn't this something that is covered with the warranty? I would certainly think so.
 
It is annoying to have to fix. But, as Bob stated, many other boats have
similar problems, and with most other boats, the problem is structural as
well as cosmetic. At least with the C-Dory, it is cosmetic, and not really all
that hard to fix.

They could use a more substantial fastener, but would such a fastener
pull right through the rail? Especially a Monel rivet?

If my boat was under warranty, I would have the dealer fix it.

I've wondering if it makes more sense to install a much more substantial
rubrail when doing the project? The one that comes with the boat is
pretty small and easily damaged.

Mike
 
I'm currently doing the rub rail rivet replacement job, trying to limit it to the forward half of each side (approx 50 rivets). Some rivet heads were corroded off, some of the rivets "anchored" themselves during installation mid-way through the fiberglass, and some even pulled all the way through to the aluminum rail providing no hold at all! A very poor implementation by the factory as others have stated.

I was wondering whether to use 5200, Boat Life or a good GE Silicon to seal up the holes as I reattach with SS 10-32x1 screws (1 1/4" in some places), nylock nuts and oversize washers? 5200 seems too permanent and might not allow enough flexing with age.

Ideas welcomed!
 
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