Roof rack modification help

B

breausaw

New member
Trying to devise a way to elevate my Tender off the top of the cabin about 3 inches.
Would like to attach some cross members to the existing top rails.
Haven’t been able to locate off the shelve stainless rail clamps to make the mod, maybe someone knows a source?
I’ve been looking around the site with no success.

Help with ideas or resources much appreciated

Thanks,
 
Jay, I just posted some pics I took of my brother's set-up atop his CD22, Sound Investment, in my album for C-Alaska. He has been using this for about 4 years now and seems to be holding up well. Let me know if you have questions and I can put you in touch with him. Steve
 
Surfboard racks could be clamped to the bars. Yakima makes a rack without the surfboard bungies. The bars can be ordered various lengths to fit your needs.
The racks usually have a rain gutter clamp which could be modified to fit. The tower is what gives your elevation and the yakima has various tower sizes. Then use the strap tie downs and you are ready to get underway.

On a budget you could mount 2 x 4 's with a ubolt and then come up with a strap tie down.
 
I used a standard Yakima roof rack on my CD-22. I have the high top so I got the high tower model. The attachment was for the old type rain gutters and they clamped onto the grab rail with a little persuasion. Also had to put a double bend (easy to do with a vise, a little harder with visegrips) in the Yakima supplied wrench that tightens the clamps; the high top got in the way of using the wrench. Didn't need to bend the cross bars as C-Alaska did; they cleared the top center by a couple of inches.
 
doc":grovmr5l said:
Jay, I just posted some pics I took of my brother's set-up atop his CD22, Sound Investment, in my album for C-Alaska. He has been using this for about 4 years now and seems to be holding up well. Let me know if you have questions and I can put you in touch with him. Steve
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Steve,

Please put me in touch with your bother, I’d like to now where he purchased the Yakima unit; the rail clamps and cross members is all I’d need.

Sent you a PM,

Thanks
 
Jay,

I don't know if you saw my modification, but I took a couple of stainless steel rail mounts for a VHF antenna, welded a stainless T over the threads and added a 1 in steel tube across it with two end caps. In the center it clears the roof by about 1.5 inches. On the rear I used u-bolts to clamp the 1 inch tube to the rear vertical support of the radar arch.
 
tpbrady":3m4p9ycc said:
Jay,

I don't know if you saw my modification, but I took a couple of stainless steel rail mounts for a VHF antenna, welded a stainless T over the threads and added a 1 in steel tube across it with two end caps. In the center it clears the roof by about 1.5 inches. On the rear I used u-bolts to clamp the 1 inch tube to the rear vertical support of the radar arch.
Click to expand...

I’ll have to check that out Tom, actually looked at the antenna rail mounts thinking they had possibilities. It’s the stainless weld part I’d have issues with; it always seems to lose its corrosion properties even with stainless wire.
The stainless wire for my Lincoln costs a fortune.
 
Jay,

I don't have any corrosion on mine after 5 years. You can see where the welding discolored the metal but no evidence of corrosion.
 
I made a roof rack out of cheap wood. Cost less than any mount system. Painted white. Pops on and of easily . No alteration to the boat. Very strong. Can hold anything you care to put up topside. Makes a great sun deck. Makes a great shade for the cabin in the hot South. A few pics in my album.
 
C-WEED":2ltywkfb said:
I made a roof rack out of cheap wood. Cost less than any mount system. Painted white. Pops on and of easily . No alteration to the boat. Very strong. Can hold anything you care to put up topside. Makes a great sun deck. Makes a great shade for the cabin in the hot South. A few pics in my album.
Click to expand...

Chris,

Nice looking roof rack, I like it!

Could use cider in combination with composite decking held together with ceramic coated deck screws. I suppose cheap wood would work just a good, the composite decking is heavy.

It’s got me thinking, the brain is swelling here!

Thanks for sharing,
 
Sea-Wolf Joe, breausaw:

Thanks for the comments. I am far from any metal fabrication so cheap pine wood is what I tried. If the prototype didn't work I wouldn't be out much. I used a router to make a u-shaped channel on the two base rails. This allows them to balance above the rails. The proper height side rails will allow the middle section to just barely clear the center roof. With a load it just kisses the center for support. The five notched out areas allow access to five band clamps per side and hold everything with no holes drilled in the boat. The band-clamp screws are on the backside of the base rails. They go thru slits cut midway in the base rails. I only installed four per side and it is very strong. Brass screws hold all the parts together. I decided to keep the middle deck narrow to allow airflow when cruising waterways and on the highway. The low profile doesn't seem to noticeable, wind wise.

The slated edges allow good hand holds as well as lashing points. My boat came with very large dock bumpers. I tie one inline with the helm seat. When I motor, I just pop it on the roof without untying and it rides in the channel of the open slates. Someone here on the site suggested using paint when I asked for a coating/sealant recommendation. I used a few coats of some latex house paint I had and it is quite durable. No touch-ups yet. I think the white rack with the white boat looks good. A better paint match might be even better.

When I laid it all out on the roof I would get the spacing parallel with the cabin top on one side. Then I would measure the other side and find it off! After a bit of head scratchin. I realized the two metal rails taper in slightly as they go forward. Not much of a woodworker, but I couldn't be happier with the utility of how it turned out. Especially for the small $$$ invested.
 
Chris,
Thanks for the further construction tutorial; I like the self portrait ZZZzzzzZZZZZ.
Defiantly gives me some ideas because I’d like to have a raised platform, will make a nice spring project when the winter covers come off.

Jay
 
I have been in contact with Brooks Marine Fabricators to work up a price on a 22' Cruiser removable roof rack that would be similar to the stainless steel one created by Tom on Bidarka. Simply attach the cross bars (1 pair) to the roof handrails, similar to a Yakima system. Then you could attach commercially available baskets, clamps, etc. to them. You could even order three crossbars or more to increase your "platform".
I asked for a multi unit price in case some of you want one fabricated, if the "Price is Right". The only thing I need to supply to Brooks (I am not at home able to measure) is width of the cross bars we need - I assume from roof apron to roof apron and the height of arms at clamp to keep the rack comfortable off the roof. Assume we can lift the crossbars as high off the roof as possible.

Any suggestions? Anybody? Tom? Bob? :lol: ?????

John
Swee Pea
 
Just a quick note. The rack quote from Brooks was $581 plus shipping for a pair :cry . I will pass - too rich for my blood. :crook Will probably make my own as described.

John
Swee Pea
 
Roger,

Do you know what schedule of PVC pipe that was used? Will regular white PVC hold up to the sun's UV rays?

I am going to build one for my 22 Cruiser, but need to split the t fitting and use hose clamps and elevate the rack so it doesn't hit the cabin roof.

Thanks,

Patrick
 
Chris,

I too like your wood top. I've been going to make a cobia fishing tower for our boat and this gives me some ideas.

I am sending you a PM.

Dan
 
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