Retrieving a stuck anchor

P

pcg

Member
I'm starting a new thread to continue the discussion that begins with B~C's comment about half-way down this page.
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... c&start=15

B~C discusses a method that involves attaching the anchor chain to the crown of the anchor instead of the end of the shank, and then tying the anchor chain to the end of the shank with zip-ties or gangion. The idea is that under normal use the anchor is positioned such that it gains a purchase on the bottom as desired, but under stress the zip-ties or gangion breaks and allows the anchor to be pulled from the crown, thus allowing it to roll up and free itself. The risk is that the zip-ties or gangion would break when not desired to do so.

Here's another idea... why not just tie a second short line to the anchor crown that is just long enough to reach a float on the surface. If the anchor becomes stuck then just motor over to the float and tug on the line to pull the anchor up by the crown to free it. This seems simple to me, but that's just probably because I have little experience anchoring and am overlooking something obvious to an experienced user.
 
I have used the float on a line from the crown of the anchor multiple times, especially in rocks and areas with snags. I have had boaters think that was a "mooring" buoy several times and also a fishing boat get that tangled in his prop...intentionally? Maybe. It does work. I got to labeling it "anchor retrieval buoy, not a mooring! Also using a larger float so it was more visible.

There are a number of anchors with a slot in the shank, and you can either put the shackle of the chain thru a single hole, or in the slot--not a good idea in places where the load will reverse with tide or wind shift.
 
pcg":2oifwcvn said:
I'm starting a new thread to continue the discussion that begins with B~C's comment about half-way down this page.
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... c&start=15

B~C discusses a method that involves attaching the anchor chain to the crown of the anchor instead of the end of the shank, and then tying the anchor chain to the end of the shank with zip-ties or gangion. The idea is that under normal use the anchor is positioned such that it gains a purchase on the bottom as desired, but under stress the zip-ties or gangion breaks and allows the anchor to be pulled from the crown, thus allowing it to roll up and free itself. The risk is that the zip-ties or gangion would break when not desired to do so.

Here's another idea... why not just tie a second short line to the anchor crown that is just long enough to reach a float on the surface. If the anchor becomes stuck then just motor over to the float and tug on the line to pull the anchor up by the crown to free it. This seems simple to me, but that's just probably because I have little experience anchoring and am overlooking something obvious to an experienced user.
Click to expand...

This would be my preferred method. The ziptie sounds quick and easy. But I already worry enough about dragging my anchor, I don't need the additional worry of will the zip tie (or two zip ties), break in the middle of the night if some wind comes up. I don't always have the second line and buoy with me, unless I'm going to a known location with rocks or stumps. And I tend not to anchor in those kinds of locations anyway. There has been once or twice where I had my anchor lodged, but was able to free it by pushing or pulling with the boat at different angles under power. It was interesting to read a post on the FaceBook ICW group, of some whiner complaining about folks that used such a retrieval line with a buoy, whining about how it took up anchorage space. I didn't comment, but first thought was if you need to drift over my anchor, you need to anchor somewhere else! Colby
 
I'd use the zip tie method only for fishing or a lunch anchor, not for overnight.

A method I've used a couple of times is to shackle an ~18" loop of chain around the anchor line, tie a light (1/4"?) line onto the shackle, and let the loop slide down the taut anchor line and onto the anchor shank. Then by pulling on the light line until I found the right direction, I was able to back the anchor out of what it was snagged in.
 
For most of the 1st 10 years on our CD22, we had a 22# claw anchor, that in some not trusted anchorages, I would use the line tied to a buoy & the anchor crown. In 2014, when we switched to the 25# Manson Boss anchor, I would use the slot that ran the length of the anchor shank for connecting the chain to the rode. The cut out slot has a sliding lock that allow for the shackle to stay at the end of the shank or slide up to near the anchor flukes. In our extended 2015 & 2016 SE Alaska cruise, I would leave the lock at the fluke area for anchor retrieval if hung up, only when anchored in suspect anchorages. The Boss anchor never lost its set even in the suspect areas with high wind & tide reversals during those cruises, so on our 2018 & 2022 extended cruises & on all our other anchoring, the anchor slot has been left with the shackle allowed to slide to the fluke area if needed. Not once with hundreds of anchoring now has it dragged or in anyway lost its set, other than the immediate resetting following a tide or wind reversal. This has become my preferred method of preventing an anchor loss, though if I was preparing to anchor during very bad weather, combined with high tidal changes & poor bottom, I would set the slot lock to keep the shackle attached directly to only the end of the shank. Also I’m not recommending others to do like me, unless they have gained the confidence over time in their anchor to do so.

This is the Manson Boss anchor with slot & lock.
010_G.sized.jpg
 
Back
Top