Replacement of older G4 Tie Down disc brakes

S

SeaSpray

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C Dory Year
2004
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22 Cruiser
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SeaSpray
I have an 04 King trailer and went out to check the brake pads. The first wheel I looked at had frozen pistons in the caliper. I was able to push out one piston but don't think there are rebuild kits for these.

Has anyone replaced the Tie Down G4 with stainless rotors with a newer system? Tie Down seems to make two G5 models - the Eliminator non-stainless with GALVX coating, and a stainless rotor Eliminator.

I did find replacement calipers for my G4 brakes but these have always seemed to wear the pads quickly and I would have the same rotors. The price of just the calipers is about $330 and the others $450 and $600.

Any experience with these models or suggestions?
 
OK, I have a EZ Loader, but in general brakes is brakes. First, I'm not sure why your calipers cost so much, unless that's for 4 calipers. Journey On's trailer takes these calipers: Kodiak Calipers they aren't SS, but I've still got 3 of the original calipers and we've been launching in salt water for 6 years.

Second, it's not the calipers which grind down the pads, unless they're crooked. For me, it's the rust on the disks that wear out the pads. You get rust on your car pads, but salt water and infrequent trips do a number on the trailer. I've changed to ceramic and wear seems to be better. I guess you have SS, but it's still the disk, the caliper just shoves the pad against the rotor.

Boris
 
I'm not sure but you might look into replacing the complete axle assembly with brakes already installed. I don't know if you have torsion or leaf springs but complete axles sometimes are priced pretty aggressively. Just a thought since your axles are eight years old. Try the www.trailerpartssuperstore.com who are east coast but have decent prices on brake parts.
D.D.
 
I have ordered the Kodiak brakes to replace my Tie Down G4 models. I have a set of brake pads for the G4's and I will have 4 complete hubs/rotors and calipers that could be used for parts. Let me know if interested.

Steve
 
Gonna replace all four of our G4 brakes w/ then newer G5. Has to be done; the rotors are shot and the pad are worn. Question is this: HOW DO YOU BLEED THE SYSTEM? :?
 
Mark I am in the process of replacing all 4 of my rotors, calipers,pads,bearings, seals as we speak. On my coupler there is a lever on the underside just behind the reciever cup push that up poke a flat tip screwdriver in the hole pump master cylinder. It Is a two person job. One to pump and add fluid the other to crack the bleeder nipple at the calipers. Don't waste your money on those small hand vaccum pumps that claim to make it a one person job. I have two and neither are worth a crap. I don't know who makes your coupler mine is a UFP. There is a picture of how to pump the master cylinder and a short discription on their site. Bleeding the system is the only real PITA on the whole job. Have fun
 
Thanks guys. I found the answer once I got cleaned up and put all the tools away.

I have a Titan "Surge-O-Matic" model 10. I "GOOGLED" that and found detailed instructions. Duh... :roll: I always jump to "trying to figure it out..." before I remember the inter-web is here now and has answers for everything. :oops: Now to just order the parts; $190.00 per wheel from Trailer Parts Superstore. :x :cry Oh, well. It's just money....right? :|
 
The results of my brake change have been good with a little problem in the beginning.

The new Kodiak brakes work much better than the Tie Down I had. But I am not sure how long the calipers have been so corroded they where not working.

When I installed all 4 new hub/rotors, bearings, and calipers I took it for a test run to my local ramp - about 10 miles low speed. When I got there on of the outer wheel bearings had destroyed itself and the hub was running on the nut. I have never had a failure like this and have no idea what caused it. I installed all 4 the same way and only this one had a problem.

I talked with Kodiak and they sent me a replacement hub and bearings. I am very grateful they did this since I purchased online and there was no way for them to know how I installed it.

With a new hub and bearings I made a trip to Lake Powell and back (2000 mi) with no problems except a blown tire.

If anyone has the Tie Down G4 brakes I have a new set of brake pads free for pickup or you pay shipping.

Steve
 
If all four were properly installed and equally torqued w/ the end play properly adjusted, a defect in the wheel bearing itself would by my first guess. It's the most "complex" piece of the puzzle, and as such, the most prone to failure.
 
Disk brake calipers are very easy to rebuild....and you sure don't need to order a rebuild kit or have someone rebuild them....

You can buy the parts separately from a quality parts house...like a Napa Dealer...but they have to want to help you...it takes some looking...
the ONLY part that touches inside the caliper bore is the square cut seal...and those are standard sizes... you can have rust pits inside the caliper bore and that will not cause any sort of problem...only if they are inside the groove where the square cut seal rests.

The dust boot is also available separately as is the piston...the piston on all caliper systems is nickel plated..if it is pitted replace that..it will be the same as a car piston...Napa can find that too...

The caliper rebuild kit is expensive...and once you look inside you will feel robbed....because there are only two pieces...a new square cut seal and a new dust boot...that is it.. you can buy them for much less from Napa as separate parts...easy to do...there is a special catalog they have that shows the parts.... it's called a Illustrated Parts Guide A400 if I remember correctly.

It takes less than 10 minutes to clean a caliper and rebuild it...if anyone wants me to rebuild theirs...buy the parts, send everything to me and I will be happy to rebuild them for free...it's that easy.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Napa also has a caliper rebuild service and it costs something like $30 and includes the new parts....

If the caliper itself is rusty, I think I would send it in and have them cadmium plated..it is not very expensive...cad will not build up like powdercoating.

Joel
SEA3PO
 
We have a 2006 King trailer with Tie Down Engineering disc brakes on both axles. I am hoping to convert from a surge brake system to an Electric over Hydraulic sytem. I prefer the Carlisle Hydra Star unit. I talked with the tech rep at Tie Down Engineering today and he informed me that whatever system I choose, it cannot exert over 1000 PSI. He said that even 1001 PSI would destroy the aluminum calipers.

I know that many of the C-Brats have the electric over hydraulic systems on their trailers. Do any of you have the system where the TieDown disc brakes are used?

Thanks for any information you can provide.

Gary
 
Golerud":3d1xigli said:
I talked with the tech rep at Tie Down Engineering today and he informed me that whatever system I choose, it cannot exert over 1000 PSI. He said that even 1001 PSI would destroy the aluminum calipers.

Thanks for any information you can provide.

Gary
Click to expand...

That "tech rep" must be an English Major, he' certainly not an engineer!

Charlie
 
I remember reading that the Tie-Down G5 brakes cannot be used w/ electric over hydraulic systems. Now why exactly, I didn't ask since we were not going to replace the working Titan surge acutator.

I got them here:
http://www.boattrailerpartssuperstore.com/product_p/82092.htm But it doesn't say anything in particluar as regards this.

However, here; http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-down-1175-ss-g5-disc-brake-assembly-6-lug-82092

it says:
• TIEDOWN DISC BRAKES ARE NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH ELECTRIC-OVER-HYDRAULIC BRAKE ACTUATORS THAT PRODUCE MORE THAN 1000 PSI
Click to expand...
 
I was referring to the "preciseness" of his statement. :shock:

Charlie
 
Yeah, I got it Charlie. It was pretty funny on his part. :lol: 1,000.000001 psi. :wink: BANG! :shock:

I was commenting on just what I had remembered reading re: surge vs electric on this particular kit. It's interesting how one website specifically says it; one doesn't. :?
 
Just one more reason to go with Kodiak disc brakes.
D.D.
 
I looked at the Kodiaks too. The reason I went w/ the G5's was we primarily boat in the Puget Sound (salt water) and I wanted the stainless rotors. The last coated set of brake rotors (G4s) showed heavy, deep rust in less than 5 yrs of use, and I religiously rinse/wash after every trip. Hopefully, these will last longer. Time will tell.
 
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