Replace Transducer?

L

Lost Petrel

New member
The depth readings on my Raymarine DSM300 sounder with a P66 transducer went bad intermittently last fall. It started when on plane crossing the Straits of Georgia and then would only read correctly once in a while while in Desolation and then worked for awhile coming back.
I have researched online and come up with various theories and mostly suspect the transducer. Replacement of it would be relatively easy for me right now with the boat on the trailer, but I hate to do it on just a guess. Infinitely difficult to test it out of the water. Of course if I wait it would get a whole lot more expensive if I put it in and then have to haul again.
I am inclined to just replace it on the hope that it is the problem, any opinions?
 
Other than checking all connections are secure there isn't much to do on transducers. Given the era of that unit it may just have died. But....how does it work in US waters? I have heard of countless issues of Raymarine's units going intermittent or failing totally when crossing into Canada when "falling" off the map chip. The unit then wants a soft reset. They seem to get lost and suffer. There were issues with many DSM's from '06-'09 in Raymars struggle years. Surprisingly Raymarine's products tended to be very sensitive to voltage. Any issues there with low volts? Call Raymarine, if by chance you have a Mexico made DSM they will likely replace it. They switched to a better mfg in 2010 when FLIR bought them. . Google DSM 300 problems. I dunno. Best of luck.
George
 
Have you looked on transducer element? Is it cracked or scratched?

Checking and cleaning all connections (power, ground, etc) and adding dielectric grease if not sealed is another idea. Using a voltmeter and check the voltage at the panel and at the power plug attached to the unit is easy to perform along looking for bent pins

m2cw
 
What do you mean by going bad? Our Raymarine C80 unit has an issue when the water gets very deep, 200' + it looses track of the bottom and reads between 25' and 35' when the charts confirm its deeper. The only time its an issue for us is when we are shrimping and looking for a good hole at 300ish feet.

I posted an inquiry about it on here a while back, and also to see if anyone had any reviews of some newer technology they could recommend.

Dr. Bob (Thataway) suggested replacing the transducer as a solution to my problem. I have yet to do anything to solve the problem and have been just learning to live with it loosing the bottom occasionally.

I was told the transducer looses some of its power over time, and what its picking up on is separate thermoclines in the water column.
 
Thanks George, I have yet to call Raymarine, but probably should given the information you shared.

Brent, I have checked all physical aspects of the transducer and connections, because it is out of the water now it is difficult to check much more than that.

Paul, the unit basically "0" out went it went over the very deep Strait, but then it never returned when getting shallow again. It did seem to read immediately after turning everything on the next day, quickly lost signal (read badly) once underway.

I would be willing to let it go until going out again, except the next cruise might be Powell for which I would really like it reading accurately.
 
With the boat on the trailer, are you able to hear the transducer clicking when turnrd on? If not or if the clicking is not strong, it's time to replace the transducer. They are wear items and need to be replaced periodically.

If you are loosing bottom at a cetain speed, it's generally because you are cavitating the face of the transducer or taking the transducer out of the water all together. The latter has been the problem on the last two training sessions I've been out on. Lower the ducer into clean water.

Next is to look at the ducer placement. If there is anything in front of it like a hull projection or lifting strake, the cavitation will blind your sonar. Move the ducer.

If it used to work really well and all of a sudden is different, inspect the ducer for physical damage such as cracks or deep pits in the housing.

keep us posted on what you find.
 
Thanks Steve

I will check for the quality of the noise from the ducer, had not thought of that.

Regarding the other things though, The incident was not at any particular speed and has been working fine in its place for quite a few years. I did check for external damage and there is none.

If there is a problem with the transducer, it is internal.
 
SounderSolutions":hj4jsukw said:
Definetly sounds like you have a new ducer in your future. At $125 for a P66, its not horribly expensive.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking and it would be easy for me to put it in right now

Thanks
 
I had the same sort of problem with a humming bird sounder, after about 80 ft it was all over the place, it was rated for 450ft, they sent me another one, it did the same thing using the transducer that came in the box with it.
If you know someone with the same set up, you might want to try your stuff on there boat, your transducer, just hanging over the side of the boat, and your sounder hooked up to their transducer.

good luck
 
I have the exact same setup, and year C80 with DSM300. Largely used in fresh water. Since new, I occasionally lose bottom when on plane, but infrequently. I attribute this to momentary disturbance of water near the Transducer. This can happen in shallow or deeper water. I often am in 400-700' feet of water, but depth does not seem to affect, whether on plane or just cruising slowly. Rarely, I will lose bottom at greater depth for a prolonged period while on plane, but within several minutes it resets automatically. I have 750 hours on the DSM at this point. All connections were made with dielectric grease initially.
 
So I went ahead and picked up a new transducer. I managed to get enough of the bottom paint off to release and remove the old one without breaking it (going to hang onto it until I know for sure that it was the problem)
IMG_1426.sized.jpg

I drilled out to fill the screw holes before remounting. I saw no need for and additional mounting plate as I am replacing with the same, and will need no new adjustment.
IMG_1428.sized.jpg

At the same time I upgraded the Crossover Connector (needed with the E80 that I have) to the recommended Raymarine
IMG_1434.sized.jpg

from the one that I am assuming was factory installed.

IMG_1436.sized.jpg

I just filled the holes, once set I will re-tap for the screws, set the ducer and give it some bottom paint, then I will have completed all my known projects before putting her back in the water.
 
ghone":1jfr2t0m said:
If that phone jack is what your transducer was plugged into....I think you just found the problem.
Good luck.
George
Click to expand...

:lol: Well I don't think it was just a phone jack, it was a CAT5E RJ45 Unshielded Cross Over Inline Coupler. It had been doing the job for awhile working fine, but it did not secure the cables well like the new one, so it possibly could have been the problem.
Like I said earlier though, it was easy to replace the transducer now where it would have been a much bigger problem after it was back in the water.
 
Good find. All connections need to be vibration and moisture proof, hopefully you'll have cured your issue. Best of luck.
George
 
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