Recommendations on a Trailer C Dory 2006 Cruiser 25

L

Lou

New member
Hello All C Brats.
Im looking for a trailer for my 25'Cruiser. Trailer That I have now is a Loadrite that has been neglected by previous owner.
just had the Brakes/Rotors & brake Lines replaced.
After that issue, then wiring issues on trailer, further inspection shows Bolts & Bunks to be deteriorated. I really don't know if its worth rebuilding the trailer or to just purchase a new trailer. Any insight is greatly appreciated. whether it be to repair the issues as is or to just trade in and purchase a new trailer.

I along with my Beautiful Partner Lori Bought a C Dory 2006 Cruiser 25 a Year and a half ago. We got the Dori Den for a good price knowing that there would be a lot of elbow grease involved with numerous upgrades ahead of us. well we have gotten the Dori Den running good and many upgrades throughout.
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The preferred trailer is a Load Rite, with the target bunks, and as I recollect a rating of 8500#. I may have a photo of the sticker giving the model number. Colby or Tom (C Otter) also have this same trailer. My recollecting is that Colby had some issues with his new one--so you may be best off getting new components. The new trailer is not cheap. You can put new torsion axles, and all new SS hardware, plus bunks etc for a fraction of the cost of a new one. If you do a lot of trailering, then the Electric over hydraulic brakes are strongly recommended. I was towing my with a 1/2. ton gas Yukon XL and switched to a Ford 250 diesel--the tow experience was night and day difference--I feel that one really does better and safer with a 3/4 ton.

For the lights, just get a full set of LED sealed lights, and junk anything on it. I like to use crimps with heat shrink adhesive lining, then cover with an other tube with adhesive heat link. I also like to put lights on the upper poles of the guides. That shows much better than the frame lights if someone is following. I also put both red and yellow LED clearance lights on the top of the Guide-ons. Preferable tinned at least #14 wire is best for the wiring. There are some kits which have decent, but not perfect wiring.

The brakes are one of the more expensive items, so if you have the trailer with the capacity--then just fix it.

Tom from C Otter posted that.
Load Right Lr-Ab26TB400102LTB29,940 lb GVWR. Carrying Capacity 8,400 Lbs is the perfect trailer for the C Dory 25.

Some photos of your frame and fittings might help us advise you about part replacement. Some trailer builders are better than others. In our area of the World "Owens and Sons of St. Petersburg, FL, Sport Trail of Bay St. Louis MS and Float ON from Indian River FL. are all top trailer builders. Aluminum frames, with SS hardware are preferred.
 
The initial issue I had with my trailer was basically the tail light wiring was chaffed where it ran between the rear upright poles and the frame. (This was inside the frame, where the bottom L of the uprights enters into the frame. Not really a big issue. Otherwise, I've been very happy with the trailer. I paid $6558 for it new. That included a spare tire and carrier, stainless steel hardware and the Electric over Hydraulic brakes. I bought it from Enterprise Marine and RV LLC. This was a few years ago. Not sure what they are selling for now. But that price was very modest compared to what a lot of dealers wanted. Colby
 
Lou, since you've already got the brakes done and i assume the bearings are ok if you've done the brakes. It isn't that expensive to put new bunks on compared to a new trailer. I would put on the new bunks and cover them with the plastic skids. They make loading/launching much easier. You'll definitely want good stern straps because the plastic bunk covers are slick and your boat can slide on sudden stops. Most marine stores will have electrical wiring kits to replace worn electrical. Get led lights in waterproof lenses and lastly check your tires to make sure they are in good shape. Replace them if they are checked or are old. A good trailer tire to replace with are the Goodyear Endurance, they hold up very well. Good luck.
 
Schuster":2wk8vegq said:
Lou, since you've already got the brakes done and i assume the bearings are ok if you've done the brakes. It isn't that expensive to put new bunks on compared to a new trailer. I would put on the new bunks and cover them with the plastic skids. They make loading/launching much easier. You'll definitely want good stern straps because the plastic bunk covers are slick and your boat can slide on sudden stops. Most marine stores will have electrical wiring kits to replace worn electrical. Get led lights in waterproof lenses and lastly check your tires to make sure they are in good shape. Replace them if they are checked or are old. A good trailer tire to replace with are the Goodyear Endurance, they hold up very well. Good luck.
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Schuster Thanks For your input on this. Why I'm asking whether to upgrade this trailer or by a new one. I plan on driving from the ocean city Maryland down into Flamingo/Everglades NP and then boating throughout the everglades area then into the Keys eventually down into the Tortuga's Febuary/March of 2024. I just know that the loadrite trailer that i have now needs a lot of sweat equity with replacement of tires,Bolt,nuts new bunks with platic bunk covers a new electronic winch. and of course running lights throughout.
So. do I rebuild the trailer or just purchase a new one. I'm getting ideas/recommendations from fellow C Brats on a new trailer or rebuild what I have.
 
colbysmith":1cdalhqi said:
The initial issue I had with my trailer was basically the tail light wiring was chaffed where it ran between the rear upright poles and the frame. (This was inside the frame, where the bottom L of the uprights enters into the frame. Not really a big issue. Otherwise, I've been very happy with the trailer. I paid $6558 for it new. That included a spare tire and carrier, stainless steel hardware and the Electric over Hydraulic brakes. I bought it from Enterprise Marine and RV LLC. This was a few years ago. Not sure what they are selling for now. But that price was very modest compared to what a lot of dealers wanted. Colby
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Colby. Thanks for the info. im gonna be working on the wiring this weekend. ill check out the areas you mention with the wiring. when you bought your trailer was it for a 25' cruiser ? and if so do you know the Make & modrl of the trailer ?

Thanks Lou
 
Lou,
It was for my 2009 CD-25.

Model LR-AB26T8400102LTB2 (Loadrite)

This was the price break down. Trailer $5320.00
EOH Brakes on Tandem $ 676.00
Spare Carrier w/ Spintle Hub Assy for I-Beam $ 120.00
Main Frame S/S hardware $ 150.00
S/S bunk tube fasteners $ 60.00
S/S brake lines $ 120.00
Spare tire w/ galvanized Wheel 225R15D Raidal $ 112.00

Colby
 
New Loadrfite is going to cost you about $7,000

Rebuild and new tires: $2,000

Tires for your trailer (Goodyear endurance $1000

Bunks and hardware less than $1000.

Your labor?? What is it worth? How much do have to earn to make up for your labor time>.

Take some photos of your trailer so we can evaluate what you need.
 
Lou, if you've already replaced the brakes and lines, and doing the wiring with new LED lights now, if the main trailer frame and running gear is in good condition, I'd be in crowd that says just replace your bunks. I am not familiar with the plastic bunk covers, but not sure how they'll affect the hull or any bottom paint you have. I have been satisfied with just a good quality carpet on my bunk. Which model Loadrite trailer do you have? If it is the appropriate one for a 25 foot boat, again if the main frame and running gear (axles) are in good shape, I'd just put new bunks with carpet on it. You are thinking in the right direction of wanting a good trailer for your boat. Especially if you will be trailering a lot or the boat is stored on the trailer a good part of the year. You have a decent sum of money invested in the boat, you want to have a decent trailer for it to sit on. Also, since a few have recommended Goodyear Endurance tires, I'm going to throw my experience in with Carlisle Trailer Tires. I run about 10,000 miles a year and have been quite happy with the Carlisles. They are not as expensive as the Goodyear's. I think any decent tire if properly inflated and covered when not in use, and replaced every 5 or 6 years, is going to do well. Colby
 
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