Ranger 25 Modifications and Add-ons

J

jlgray

New member
So what have you modified or added to your tug that you can share? It has been awhile since some ideas where posted and photographs taken. We have had the Laurie Ann for a year, now has 150 hours, and we just updated our photo album with the highlights of our modifications.

By the way, we are trailering the tug to the Mississippi River in two weeks to take her down the rivers to Mobile, Alabama; 1100 miles in 10 weeks and our first installment of the Great Circle Loop.
 
No pictures yet, but I just added 2 120W solar panels along with 2 additional house batteries (now a total of 400AmpHr) to Island Ranger. In the rain, at 3pm, it was adding 4 amps to the batteries. Max should be somewhere around 14 amps.

We're hoping that the panels will recharge the batteries enough to allow us to stay at anchor for 5+ days, running refrigeration, without starting the engine. We're leaving Sept 1st for the month to cruise the Queen Charlotte Straights area (Broughtons, etc).

We're at 600+ hours on our Yanmar 110, 4000+ miles & took delivery April 2007. We've just changed from 10 kt (2800 rpm 2.4 nmpg) to 6 kt (1600 rpm 6.0? nmpg) cruising. Still a great boat!

Mac & Linda
 
I will really be interested to see how much power you get out of the solar pannels in the Broughtons. Our experience there earlier in the year, was over cast and cold--plus rain on a few days. We did plug in at docks some days-but did not run the generator even with several days at anchor--we ran enough to keep the batteries charged. We have 3 house batteries--group 31, beyond the engine start batteries--which gave us about 360 amp hours of batteries(usable 180 amp hours if you don't discharge more than 50%).
 
Mac,
Sure wish you would get pictures posted on your solar panels. I have ordered the 31 AGM batteries for house and would like solar panels. Did you fit them on the sports rack? Any details on regulators? Where did you get them?

Sounds like you have a great trip planned. We got to do that one some summer.

When we get delivery of the Lucky Fin :lol: , we plan on heading to Florida. Put in the St. Johns River, Out to the InterCoastal to Palm Beach, to the Bahamas, to the Keys, around to the Barge Canal, back up to the St. Johns. Lord willing and the creek don't rise, we will catch up on a lot of cruising we have missed the last couple of years. Should take all winter.

All I got to do is learn to use a ladder coming down off the roof. 8 ft to the concrete is to much for a 70 yr old. Trip was fast but painfull. I lucked out and broke no bones. Few stitches and a couple weeks and I can get back in the saddle. ( or better yet in the boat). :thup

captd
 
The jury is still out, but here's what I have so far. I installed 2 x 120 watt Mitsubishi solar panels (MF120EC4)- the ones recommended by Wholesale Solar for RV/Marine use. They fit perfectly on the sports rack using the RV mounts they have available along with an aluminum backing plates I made. I also installed the Morningstar Prostar PS-30 (30 amp) controller. A bit of overkill, but I wanted the gauges to see what power was being generated.

The installation instructions that come with the Mitsubishi panels say that they cannot be used within 500 meters of salt water. That was a surprise to me, and to Wholesale Solar. The Prostar says for acceptable life expectancy, don't subject it to a marine environment. I contacted Mitsubishi, they confirmed the corrosion portion of the warranty is void if the problem was caused by salt water. I am waiting to see what Wholesale Solar says, but I don't expect much. I contacted Mitsubishi again - to find out what corrodes and maybe try to prevent it. We'll see what I learn, if anything.

In the rain, with the panels away from the sun, I got ~ 4 amps charging the batteries. When the sun came out, I got 6-8, and when I rotated the boat so the stern was aligned with the sun, I got 8-10 amps (at 11am). The two panel combined rating is 13.6 amps at 17.6 v. The batteries were fully charged at the time, I don't know yet if that makes a difference.

If I only get 4-5 hours of 4-6 amps, that will be roughly half of our daily consumption (I think). That's mostly refrigeration. I hope to get twice that - and still am hopeful. I have 4 x 100amp (group27, maint free) house batteries, so have 200 amphrs to consume. Without the solar, I think I have 4 days of battery power, if I only get 25 amphrs/day from the panels - that will give us 8 days at anchor. If I get 50 amphr/day, we'll start thinking about a water maker 'cause we may never have to leave.

More later,

Mac
 
It only took my first solo cruise to realize that, without auto-pilot added to the RayMarine GPS navigation system that came with the boat---well, I would be on the rocks.....so I added Auto-Pilot, also from RayMarine....
a fascinating device, whether just continuing on the course you've already set (degrees on the compass) or actually plotting its own course to a point on the "chip" of the body of water, where you have placed the cursor, and said, in effect, "Go."
Then, I wrestled with the bottom paint question, read the threads here on the C-Brat site, talked with a few people, and concluded that I didn't need to go whole hog with both epoxy layers and bottom paint, but that one solid coat of bottom paint might avoid sea creatures growing from my hull too fast, as I inevitably end up in the water for weeks, if not a month or two, without a haulout.
The next thing I'm going to do is figure out that access panel to the fresh water tank, which I saw on this site, right under the bulkhead cushions. More on that later. Right now, the boat is in Oakland and I'm in Sacramento, but we're leaving for Lake Powell shortly.
 
Mac,
I am in the process of ordering this setup on solar panels. They sent me a picture of the RV mounts and they are for a flat surface mount. Are these the ones you used for the sport rack? They want $40,00 a set for these. needing two sets. $80.00
Did you get the PS 30 with meter (ps 30 M) $185.00 Or the PS 30 without meter? $155.00.
Darrel
 
I am amazed.

I received a response from Mitsubishi regarding the effects of salt water on their solar panels. They said the issue was salt water/air - it could attack any exposed metal. But the only exposed metal I see is the aluminum anodized frame, so I'm beginning to think that it might be fine.

But... then I got two emails, and a phone call direct from Wholesale Solar in response to my message. They said they made a mistake - and to ship the Mitsubishi panels back (at their expense). They already shipped two Kyocera KC130 panels to me - and they will be here tomorrow. They are covered under warranty for marine use. Holy Cow!

I got the $185 Prostar 30, with the display that shows battery voltage, solar amps (and load amps if you have load connected). I think I can spend all day just watching the current flow into the batteries....

I got the RV mounts (they used to be $20 a set, just went to $40 a set). A ridiculous price, but I don't have a good way to bend aluminum accurately, so I spent the $$. I then bought a piece of aluminum stock - cut short 3 inch strips, drilled holes and bought stainless bolts with locking nuts to secure it. The strip bends a little as you tighten and wraps around the sports rack. Worked like a champ. I will try to get pictures tomorrow if I can get time to get to the boat.

Good luck -

Mac
 
Thanks for the info Mac. I too am interested in going solar and would like to hear more as your project progresses. The price you found with Wholesale Solar seems to be an excellent one!

I would be cautious about mixing aluminum and stainless materials together in the mounting system. In the salt water environment, these two materials will react with each other causing corrosion and eventual failure. I found this out the hard way even after hearing advice from my wise expert.
 
Interesting.

I think the difference in warranty is that Mitsubishi specifically states that operation within 500 meters of salt water voids the warranty. Kyocera panels have been more the industry standard for boats, and do not exclude marine use. I see that they say they exclude damage caused by use on a mobile vehicle - but what failure would be caused by such a use? My guess would be something like an impact damage or getting thrown off. I'm not going to worry about it.

The RV mounts are aluminum. I used a 4 ft strip , 1 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick of aluminum - cut into straps for the other side.

The Kyocera unit that is coming also uses the same junction box as the Mitsubishi (according to the data sheet I received)- although it appears both companies seem to have now changed connectors.

Here I sit...waiting for Fed Ex... Gonna be a long day...

Mac

mac
 
jlgray":1dtj20ld said:
I would be cautious about mixing aluminum and stainless materials together in the mounting system. In the salt water environment, these two materials will react with each other causing corrosion and eventual failure. I found this out the hard way even after hearing advice from my wise expert.
Click to expand...

There is a product called Tef-Gel which seems to be working pretty well to control the unlike metals corrosion where stainless hardware is used on aluminum. I have used it in a few applications in the past few years, and my preliminary opinion is that it seems to help. A real test will require more years to see what happens, as I'm mostly using it on new boats.

The guy at the local Ace hardware recommended a special kind of grease, but I forget the name. It's supposed to do pretty much the same thing as Tef-Gel, which is form a slimy, insulating barrier between the unlike metals. I tried some, but find the Tef-Gel gooier and stickier, which made me guess that it will hold up longer.
 
:beer :beer :beer :beer
The Lucky Fin now has a hull #, US-FMLT25281809

To be started in a week or so and to be completed October 20th.

The 150 Cumins is the biggest reason to sell the Mis Dee and order a new one. Although the Yanmar was zero problems, it was a little slow for my taste. Anyone thinking of buying a Ranger or a Nordic Tug. I can tell you Ranger stands behind it boats. They are a pleasure to do business with. They took care of every problem I had with the early production model, hull #6. And it did have a few nickel dime problems that were always taken care off. Wefing is a dealer you can count on. It pays to go all the way to Forida to buy a boat. ( 3000 miles) I like the Ranger enough to go for seconds. The 150 Cumins will allow a little quicker crossing to the Bahamas.
Solar panels are on order, thanks to Mac. ( Island Ranger)

Pictures in the Lucky Fin album and posts forth coming.
captd
 
captd, are you sure that's the number?

The conventional numbering scheme would have the last four be "I809" not "1809". In that system, the "I" means "September" the "8" means built in 2008, and the "09" means it is a 2009 model.

I'm not certain Ranger uses that numbering system, but most manufacturers do.
 
OK. I am not so happy with Fed Ex - again. My replacement panels didn't leave Redding all day, and now they won't be here until Friday. Not bad huh, schedule for today, then reschedule for two days later. Guess that's part of the price for living on an Island. Humm.. what to do....

I took some pictures of my install. They are in my Island Ranger / Solar album. I still can't believe I was getting 3+ amps at 4pm here in Washington (sun wasn't shining, but actually had some blue sky - but don't tell)

Thanks for the Stainless/Aluminum feedback. If I don't use stainless bolts, what could I use?

Mac
 
Interesting that Wholesale Solar now lists the Mitsubishi as for RV use only (not marine). I am a bit pesimistic about 10 and 20 year warantees--how many of us will still own our current boats in 10 years? How many of the internet companies will still be around in 10 years? One of the reasons I have patronized West Marine, despite sometimes higher prices, is that they stand behind their products.

Sailboat masts have long used Aluminum and SS together in rigs. As long as you use precautions and properly corrosion resistant Aluminum, plus painting when necessary, you can get away with this. Yes there are some gels which help-but they are not 100%. I have some antenna mounts for my ham antennas on the Tom Cat which are an external grade of aluminum on the SS railing, and they are doing fine. I had some similar fittings which still were fine after 4 years and 40,000 miles of full time ocean exposure.

Anodized Aluminum can get salt crystals under the surface and corrosion begin there. There are hard anodized surfaces which are extremely resistant--unfortunately, most anodizing is soft and not all that resistant over time.
 
You got me TomRay. Pretty sure I copied it down right. I will check it out for sure.
captd

Wow. Mac, That install looks great. You sure come up with some good ideas. I have tracking numbers so I guess mine are on the way. They are sending the Kyocera 130. Thanks for that tip.

Those charging examples are about unbelievable. I, like you, will enjoy watching the power go into the batteries. Thats is better than tv.
 
thataway":n7dt6n68 said:
Interesting that Wholesale Solar now lists the Mitsubishi as for RV use only (not marine). I am a bit pesimistic about 10 and 20 year warantees--how many of us will still own our current boats in 10 years? How many of the internet companies will still be around in 10 years? <some discussion cliped>
Click to expand...

Interesting note:

In California law, a "Lifetime Guarantee" lasts 7 years (!)

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Well, Jeff's DA MAN, and I'm just a sales guy, so he's probably right. I'd just point out that the HIN conventions generally call for that 4th character from the end to be a letter, not a number, and it represents the month in which the hull was laid.

see:
http://my.boatus.com/consumer/hin.asp

Something I didn't know: they are not supposed to use the letters I, O, or Q in the model/serial number part of a HIN because those can easily be mistaken for numbers.
 
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