Raising trailer tongue higher than standard jack

[Don and Brenda]

I solved this problem with a bulldozer, 10 yards of gravel and a boat cover, i hope the expense was worth it, but then again I have not seen the boat since October.

 

[Doryman]

While the trailer is still on the truck retract the jack all the way to it's lowest point, place some wood underneath, then crank it up. Does this not provide sufficient lift height?

Nope -- when the trailer is on the hitch ball of my GMC (and level), and I swing down the tongue jack, there is barely enough room to slip in one of those orange plastic tongue roller rests, and no room for wood. Part of the problem is that the trailer is on the slope and the truck is on the level, causing the hitch to be closer to the ground than if it were all on the level. It is not much, but it does make a difference.

You might also consider that by tilting the boat you are loading the rear axle and tires which may not be a good thing for long term parking.

Thanks, Merv. Can anyone speak to this?

-I could buy a cover :thup bingo

I actually have a cover but have been spending a lot of time inside the boat working on various projects and have been too lazy to put the cover on. Perhaps it is time to stop being lazy! :lol: Thanks, Mark. BTW, speaking of covers, how much of an issue is it when it blows hard? I got the cover from the PO, who used it inside a big garage, so I haven't seen how it works in our climate.

Warren

 

[matt_unique]

While the trailer is still on the truck retract the jack all the way to it's lowest point, place some wood underneath, then crank it up. Does this not provide sufficient lift height?

Nope -- when the trailer is on the hitch ball of my GMC (and level), and I swing down the tongue jack, there is barely enough room to slip in one of those orange plastic tongue roller rests, and no room for wood. Part of the problem is that the trailer is on the slope and the truck is on the level, causing the hitch to be closer to the ground than if it were all on the level. It is not much, but it does make a difference.

Warren

Hi Warren,
Would you be able to back your rear truck tires onto some wood to elevate the hitch off the ground allowing you to get more cribbing under the jack?

 

[Doryman]

Would you be able to back your rear truck tires onto some wood to elevate the hitch off the ground allowing you to get more cribbing under the jack?

Yes, I could and that may well be the simplest solution. However, it means that I have to get the truck and trailer aligned from a distance before backing onto the wood. Dunno how much of a hassle that would be, but thanks for the idea.

Warren

 

[localboy]

how much of an issue is it when it blows hard?

Warren, so far the cover has never been an issue, even in the stongest wind storm of the past winter. I cinch down the perimeter cord as tightly as possible, hold down the loops w/ "bungee" cords around the trailer and used two construction spring clamps each on the stern rail and bow rail; one on each side. Those just hold the cover taught, so the water doesn't pool, but runs off. Snow is a different manner. The weight stretches the material, but I just broom it off ASAP, and the clips help.

As far as the trailer, it sounds like an issue w/ the truck being too low. :? I'd look for the simplest solution. It may just be 2X8's under each wheel like suggested above.

 

[Don and Brenda]

My cover has worked great for 2 seasons now, the bow is pointed into the prevailing wind, stays nice and dry with no flapping. Before I added the gravel in the boat space, I too had the tires on 2x10 pressure treated lumber, worked great, then used one of those large 18x18 stepping stones from the hardware store under the front jack

 

[DaveS]

However, it means that I have to get the truck and trailer aligned from a distance before backing onto the wood. Dunno how much of a hassle that would be, but thanks for the idea. Warren

Warren, I don't quite follow how you have to "align from a distance". Just back up like you always do, then when you are within 2-3 feet of your trailer's final resting stop, place three or however many 2x8's that are nailed together in step fashion up next to the rear tires of your truck and then back up until your rear tire is stopped on top of the tallest board of your step tier.

Although, I don't have the same problems as some of you (since my boat and trailer are stored level in a completely enclosed shop), I do utilize "stair stepped 2X8's" which I back the rear tires of my truck on, in order to elevate the tongue of the trailer when I am washing the boat down before I put it in the shop. That way the wash/rinse water that gets in the cockpit readily flows out the boat plug hole.

 

[matt_unique]

Just what I had in mind DaveS - the wood could be placed against or better yet 2' behind the rear tires to give you a little inertia to elevate the rear-end without spinning the tires or lugging the engine.

I do the same with Napoleon when necessary.

 

[RProffer]

I had a similar problem with a boat I had many years ago. I found the solution when the tongue broke. Come to find out, the boat was too far forward on the trailer. I moved the boat back about a foot on the trailer, and that solved a whole bunch of problems. Tongue weight was better, bumper higher off the ground, and the bilge was now draining, etc.

 

[Will-C]

Warren,
I would try to retract the jack you have all the way up while you are connected to the truck. Measure what that distance is from the bottom of the wheel of the jack to the ground. Build a wooden box out of 2 x 6's (4 x 4's in you have boo koo tongue weight)a foot square or 18" square to the height you require with a small area on top framed out the size of your trailer jack wheel so the wheel has to stay put. Back the truck in throw the box under your trailer jack wheel winder up. I built one our center console years back worked like a champ. It got me the extra height to drain the boat naturally. Maybe this would work for you.
D.D.
D.D.

 

[Da Nag]

You guys think too hard.

Just back the boat onto the trailer when retrieving.

Sincerely,

The Sunday Morning Smart-A$$

 

[rogerbum]

You guys think too hard.

Just back the boat onto the trailer when retrieving.

Sincerely,

The Sunday Morning Smart-A$$

Or, rather than backing the trailer in, pull it in and drive the truck out through the back yard (and the neighbor's yard).

(smart-A$$ in training)

 

[TyBoo]

John Deere

 

[flrockytop]

I park my 22 on a slight downward slope. The standard tongue jack does not crank up far enough to tilt the boat back to drain the cockpit. I would appreciate any suggestions for tools or methods to get the tongue higher, for storage. I have done it by jacking it up, sticking a board vertically under the tongue, retracting the jack, putting a block under the jack, jacking further, etc., but it is a pain.

Thanks,
Warren

Warren I had the same problem. For a long time I just did as Bob said and had two jacks. I'd use one to get it high enough to put the needed block under the second and then crank it up. That at least saved the up and down of using one jack. Then I got real lazy and put on an electric jack that I got from Harbor Freight. That one goes high enough to to the job and all I have to do is push a button. I still have a manual as a back up. Here is to post with picture of my set up.

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=14714


Roger

 

[Doryman]

Warren, I don't quite follow how you have to "align from a distance". Just back up like you always do, then when you are within 2-3 feet of your trailer's final resting stop, place three or however many 2x8's that are nailed together in step fashion up next to the rear tires of your truck and then back up until your rear tire is stopped on top of the tallest board of your step tier.

Dave, I was referring to the process of hooking up, not dropping off.

Warren

 

[jlastofka]

Funny this came up here, as I was just looking at the local West Marine today for a jack like this. I bought it (Fulton 1412000173 jack) and put in on the side rail about as far forward as it would go. It easily lifts the boat enough to compensate for my slight down slope and I get great cockpit drainage now. Before, it would mostly drain but there was a nuisance amount left in the boat.

The actual lift cranking travel is 15", but the drop leg and pin arrangement lets you quickly slide down to almost ground level to save cranking. That's where they get the 35" overall "lift" rating.

What they really mean is 15" of lift, with very little of it wasted cranking down to get near the ground for starting the lift.

It lifts the 22' C-Dory trailer tongue easily and is more solid than the original smaller jack. Nice addition.

And there was a $15 off coupon handy. Woo-hoo!

-Jeff

 

[rogerbum]

Jeff,
That's the same style jack that came on my Tomcat's FloatOn trailer. I like it pretty well. Since my Tomcat trailer is also parked bow down in my driveway, and since the trailer + boat is so long (nearly 40'), I still have to jack it up, put something under the tongue and the jack it up some more. Still that jack makes it faster/easier than a normal jack.

 

[breausaw]

I had this problem, fixed with a shovel. Shovel no good for asphalt or concrete, must rent electric jackhammer.

 

[Tug]

We call the hi-lift jack ...a farmers jack..i have always carried one in my truck.Great for changing rear truck tires, just hook it under the rear truck bumper and lift. There are not so good for lifting objects that can sway either right or left because the jack can topple over if your not careful. Tug

 

[BrentB]

How high do you need to raise it?
You can mod a floor jack and add a hitch ball on the lifting pad