R25 Issues

C

commander bill

New member
Due to illness & job I have not been able to spend alot of time underway on my boat this spring. I made up for that on long July 4th weekend. Noticed some issues which I would like feedback form others that may have experienced similar problems with.

I have had almost no prior run time on genset. Most time running AC has been at marina on shore power. Prior underway time has been during cool evenings with windows open & no need for AC. However these recent hot days I tried to run genset only to have it trip after 15 to 20 minutes. Each time code low voltage. While running it handled AC great & voltage on meter was 125V or slightly better. Manual says damaged generator or loose connection/ I will examine wiring connections as this seems likely cause on new boat.

When I went into the cabinet (below 1st mate seat) to retrieve my manuals to read about the genset I found all my manuals soaked. This is directly below the AC unit and the water was very clean implying condensate. While the AC unit runs at marina I have not seen any condensate come out of the condensate overboard drain (directly by AC seawater overboard discharge). The condensate connection inside the cabin appears to be vary difficult to get to. Has anyone had a similar issue?

I bought a Garmin 3210 bundles & was able to install the display & GPS antenna before recent weekend. I am waiting to install network, etc when I have more time. I cutout the location above the helm using template. However, when I attempted to install the display I found the flush mount screws too short for the thick plywood used by Ranger. II was unable to locate compatible screws at any of bigbox hardware stores. I called Garmin & got a very unhelpful man. I finally asked if I used small amounts of marine silicone to hold the display in the cutout if that would hurt anything. My intent was to get boat ready for underway time during upcoming long weekend. The caulk was installed from behind & can be cut later and longer screws used to complete the permanent installation. However, the installation looks great & marine caulk appears to hold the display so well I am not sure I need to change anything. I only used enough to anchor each of the 4 corners. Does anyone know of a reason why I need to change anything?

By the way my masthead light would not work with the running lights. It did work when the same switch (2 way rocker switch) was place in anchor light position. Just would not work when you wanted all 3 lights on. Easy fix when I got behind the controls. One of the lugs was loose on switch.
 
Sounds like you might possibly have an airlock in the A/C drain hose. Remove the bracket on the outboard side of the seat and then you can swing the seat up on its hinges to get to the small access hole that was cut out under the seat. No thought was given to accessing the A/C unit much less ever being able to service or remove it. I have toyed with the idea of enlarging the access hole, but will hold off till it is needed.

With a flashlight see if the drain hose is properly connected and runs downward towards the drain. If it goes up more than ½", there is your problem. Underneath the A/C unit, you can see the two through hull fittings. On my R-25 the forward one is the condensate drain, aft is the condenser raw water drain.

Henry
 
It is precisely Henry's input on the drainage of the AC unit, the specific directions to the places on the boat, etc....that make this site so invaluable.
I went back to my contribution and "upped" it just for this bit of detail.

If you called service on this it would have cost me at least $100.

Go Brats.

Terraplane
 
Just received confirmation of my donation. I went back to my original entry on this site...it enabled me to feel ok about purchasing my 22, and i see no difference in the support i get from my questions about my R 25...i just hope that Pat Anderson and Byrdman don't set up a donation site...i can only spread my contributions so far!!

terraplane
 
I have some questions for R25 owners.

How is it to launch and retrieve the 25 tug?
Do you need a trailer extender for shallow ramps?
Do you drive the boat off and on the trailer?
How deep does the trailer need to be - fenders covered, fenders 1ft under?
Do you have a procedure for single handed launching?
 
We have launched and retrieved Ruby-Ann 7 times since April and it is all very easy.

When launching just back the tug into the water while someone is holding onto the dock lines until she starts to float . Make note how far under the water the fenders are and use that as a guide for loading. I like to have the trailer out of the water slightly more when loading than unloading so the tug can make contact with the trailer bunks.

When loading the tug I prefer the drive-on method over the pull-on by hand method. I idle onto the trailer using the bow and stern thrusters to align it then when I am about 2 feet from the bow roller the tug makes contact with the bunks and I start to give her a little throttle and continue to do so until she just touches the bow roller by then you will be at about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Then I snug her up to the trailer and pull her out of the water. When up on the parking lot I snug her up again and hook on bow and stern tie-downs (I use a bow tie-down in addition to the stern tie-downs because a boat of that size the bow can bounce up and down some traveling down the road).

I have never tried to launch or retrieve the tug by myself, but I don't see any problem in doing so.

The tug is a large trailerable boat and does require you to back into the water further than many other boats. I have not had to launch at a shallow ramp, but I think you would not have any problem. If there were 20' ski boats launching than I would think you could also.

John
 
Thanks, John, that was encouraging. The only time I have seen my new R-25 retrieved, Bill drove the boat the last 3 feet at about half throttle, just as you described. That'll be how I do it, too, once I hit the road.
 
When we launched this spring we had a H*** of a time getting the boat off of trailer at first. Launch ramp was shallow and used by mostly pontoons. Backed my F250 in till there was several feet of river in front of truck (rear tires of truck were very wet) & truck exhaust was underwater. Boat still would not come off. A guy watching told me about another ramp only 1 mile away which was a much better angle. Boat slid right off with little effort. I have no experience putting it back on trailer yet since it has been at marina since April. I intend to leave on trailer during winter. But I found the right ramp made a world of difference.
 
Some feedback on R25 issues.

Andrew & others replied and I found that by removing seat over AC unit there is a cutout allowing access to rear of AC unit. The condensate was leaking because the clamp on drain hose was so loose it allowed the hose to rotate upward and the only way condenate could get out of drip pan was to spill out when boat rocked. Simple fix by rotating hose & tightening hose. This clamp appeared to be a good quality SS clamp just loose.

Diesel shutdown issue was also due to hose clamps. Both clamps on fuel supply line were loose. However I was unable to get them to stay tight as they vibrated loose after less than an hour of operation. These smaller clamps were poor quality clamps & did not appear to be SS. When the hose was disconnected the fuel line was empty. I replaced both clamps with good clamps & tightened. I then ran the genset for an hour loaded. After that I took the fitting apart and to find planty of fuel. Since the genset is above the fuel tank the fuel hose connection was leaking air and starving engine. I had often heard that fuel lines could leak air in without leaking fuel out. However, this is my first experience. For those with a R25 please check your fuel line fittings located on port side of main engine in engine compartment. there are 2 lines fuel supply & return. These hose clamps were not of the same quality as other clamps found on my boat and would break rather than tighten enough to resolve my problem. The connections located directly on the Genset appeared to be better quality.
 
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