Quick simple poll please
- Thread starter Ray
- Start date
Neither (If you are asking what we have?)Ray":1eg6pdgk said:
The Magic Tilt trailer I have came with the boat, is made well (welded), and tows beautifully. However, I would not buy another one. Reason is that company policy is to never talk to customers (they refer you to a dealer, rather pointedly I might add). Now, I don't mind a bit contacting a dealer - that's what they are for. But dealers (two) were not able to answer my questions, and when they contacted Magic Tilt could not get an answer (which they more or less told me to expect). So that left me with no way to get information from the company.Ray":1eg6pdgk said:
So, if I were buying another trailer I would have to, a) Like the trailer and its construction and features; and, b) Be able to get in touch with the company, if necessary, and have them be happy to talk to me. If I were considering Load Rite and Venture, I would make a test call, as if you needed information or parts, and see what sort of reception you get.
potter water
New member
Wefings in Florida, sold my boat and magic tilt to the original owner. I contacted Wefings a couple weeks ago for a part and I got it and installed within 10 days of the order. No problems. Love my all aluminum magic tilt with torsion suspension. I do a lot of mountain driving with the dory, but the hydraulic surge brakes on the trailer seem only to be used enough to keep the rust off the rotor. But then, I'm a really careful tow vehicle driver so there is not much to "surge against." I've seen no need for other trailer braking systems...so far. I do have one aluminum fender over one pair of wheels that has developed a crack, but I stop-drilled it and will get it welded by and by.
I'm sure there are other good trailers, but the aluminum magic tilt is sweet.
I'm sure there are other good trailers, but the aluminum magic tilt is sweet.
Sorry. I should have known better than to post with so little info. Apologies.
Replacing a perfectly good aluminum trailer that was provided way undersized by the original dealer to the original boat owner (I am the 2nd). Trailer carrying capacity of only 6000lbs for a 25. :shock:
Anyway, new axles, etc. are more effort than replacing the whole trailer. My immediate, and budgetary options, with good dealer support, are Venture and Load Rite. East Coast. Load Rite seems to have a massive market share out here.
Just curious about any experiences and trying to collect as much data as possible.
Thanks for the replies!
Replacing a perfectly good aluminum trailer that was provided way undersized by the original dealer to the original boat owner (I am the 2nd). Trailer carrying capacity of only 6000lbs for a 25. :shock:
Anyway, new axles, etc. are more effort than replacing the whole trailer. My immediate, and budgetary options, with good dealer support, are Venture and Load Rite. East Coast. Load Rite seems to have a massive market share out here.
Just curious about any experiences and trying to collect as much data as possible.
Thanks for the replies!
potter water":2l5bb8aw said:
That's good information for Magic Tilt owners - thanks. I didn't know Wefing's was a dealer when I was trying to get information and parts before (this was back when I first bought my C-Dory). I still strongly prefer a company that you can talk to, if you want/need to, but I will definitely call Wefing's when I next need parts or info. It is great to know they are a dealer :thup
Ray":3en5qiag said:
I'm sure you are on top of this, being the engineering type, but I'm still curious about the "way undersized" part. I usually figure a trailer is around 1/3 the weight of the boat (if steel), and I know that Jim and Joan have a "heavy" 25 (because they travel and cruise long distance) and it weighs in around 8900#. I think they have a steel trailer (?). If they do, then it seems the trailer could be up in the 2900# range, and so the boat around 6,000#. I know you have an aluminum trailer but I was just using their example to "back figure" for the weight of the loaded boat without a trailer. I may also be off on how much their trailer alone weighs, which would throw the other figure off.
I imagine you would now want a trailer that was just barely heavy-duty enough, but if it's not way undersized, but only slightly undersized, would that make a difference in whether you could upgrade it vs. buying a whole new one? (Maybe you just want a new one anyway; nothing wrong with that, but you said "perfectly good" so....)
Sorry if this mucks up your quick simple poll :embarrased I was just thinking that 6,000# capacity might not be that low so could perhaps be beefed up relatively easily.
Our empty trailer (King Salt Water Series, bunks with slicks, galvanized, spare tire with hub) weighs around 2,200 pounds empty. That puts our boat at 6,500 pounds +/-. This won't help when looking for an east coast trailer, but I have been very satisfied with the King trailer. Early on, we had some issues with the bow support geometry, but a well-placed 2x4 (which is still on there) fixed that.
We did upsize the tires to E-rated. Upgraded to electric over hydraulic brakes. All that wasn't inexpensive, but it made a good trailer even better.
Keep in mind that the trailer weight rating has to include the weight of the trailer. If I were doing it again, I would go with an aluminum trailer, just to save weight.
Best wishes,
Jim
We did upsize the tires to E-rated. Upgraded to electric over hydraulic brakes. All that wasn't inexpensive, but it made a good trailer even better.
Keep in mind that the trailer weight rating has to include the weight of the trailer. If I were doing it again, I would go with an aluminum trailer, just to save weight.
Best wishes,
Jim
Jim,
Interesting to find out what your boat weight (without the trailer). I had to guess a bit.
I don't think this is necessarily true. Many trailers (mine included) list a "trailer capacity" which really is the capacity that the trailer can hold. Then there is also a gross rating, which is capacity plus weight of trailer (a higher figure). Since Ray said "carrying capacity," I was thinking he meant the weight the trailer can carry (not including the trailer). Otherwise there is no way I would even have mentioned the possibility of its being close. 6,000# gross rating? That would be totally ridiculously low ().so if that is the case... never mind!). But 6,000# capacity almost seemed close enough to potentially be able to improve (i.e something like 500# too low).
Interesting to find out what your boat weight (without the trailer). I had to guess a bit.
JamesTXSD":3pkmygtc said:
I don't think this is necessarily true. Many trailers (mine included) list a "trailer capacity" which really is the capacity that the trailer can hold. Then there is also a gross rating, which is capacity plus weight of trailer (a higher figure). Since Ray said "carrying capacity," I was thinking he meant the weight the trailer can carry (not including the trailer). Otherwise there is no way I would even have mentioned the possibility of its being close. 6,000# gross rating? That would be totally ridiculously low ().so if that is the case... never mind!). But 6,000# capacity almost seemed close enough to potentially be able to improve (i.e something like 500# too low).
I have an aluminum Venture Tri-axle trailer rated for 8600 lbs for my Sea Ray that I bought from an outfit back in Pennsylvania. Had it delivered to Barstow , Ca., where I picked it up and brought it empty up to Redding, Ca. I've only used it on short tips around here, but it seems well made. Cost (inc. shipping) was just under $5k. Weight is around 1400 lbs. Surge brakes on two axles. They still make this trailer, but only in steel, not in aluminum. I'm happy, but can't say as I've ever really put the trailer through a real long haul test.
Joe. :teeth :thup
Joe. :teeth :thup
I was mostly going by this from Boris for my estimated boat weight. It seems about representative of my loading situation.
As well as the fact that all four of my tires are wearing bad on the inside edges:
The trailer GVWR on the mfgr sticker is 7240lbs allowing for 1240lbs for the aluminum trailer.
The upgrade is not just cost, and it doesn't matter to what level the upgrade is, it is just a lot of "stuff", like you can't change the sticker rating even if you upgrade the axles, it will need custom brackets, etc. Just too much craziness for me. :? :|
I can get a new trailer for not a lot more money that is built and stickered right, then sell this one to someone with a more suitable boat - it is perfectly good. That, as opposed to ending up with the "franken-trailer" and trying to sell just some axles on craigslist.
That's just my thinking....
As well as the fact that all four of my tires are wearing bad on the inside edges:
The trailer GVWR on the mfgr sticker is 7240lbs allowing for 1240lbs for the aluminum trailer.
The upgrade is not just cost, and it doesn't matter to what level the upgrade is, it is just a lot of "stuff", like you can't change the sticker rating even if you upgrade the axles, it will need custom brackets, etc. Just too much craziness for me. :? :|
I can get a new trailer for not a lot more money that is built and stickered right, then sell this one to someone with a more suitable boat - it is perfectly good. That, as opposed to ending up with the "franken-trailer" and trying to sell just some axles on craigslist.
That's just my thinking....
Captains Cat
New member
I bought a new Road King trailer, aluminum, tandem with a folding tongue to reduce length (to fit in a garage with the boat on it) which is made in NC and FL. Have not used it very much, only to get the boat home from the dealer near Norfolk where we bought our 2005 22 but it is very nice. They have a Good Website with many options where you can "build your own". They only sell through dealers.
Charlie
Charlie