quick, cheap, halibut rig

B~C

New member
Thought I'd start a halibut rig thread I stuck some pictures in my album of a quick cheap halibut rig that's worked good for me. I needed a quick cheap easy foolproof halibut rig and ended up with this simple rig.

For $15 you can buy enough 200-250 mono line to make enough rigs to last for quite a while. I start with about a 4' chunk of line and tie an overhand knot on each end, if I'm feeling insecure or have time to kill I'll also add a crimp to the end that attaches to the main line. Next, tie an egg dropper loop knot down towards the lead end. Throw a barrel swivel on the rod end and a snap swivel or duralock on the lead end, add bling and a hook to the dropper loop and you're ready to fish.

Anchor fishing, drifting, this rig does it all and it's easy to strip your hardware off when the mono gets worn or change bling and hooks on a whim. For recreational use, you can start with a longer piece of mono and tie two egg droppers and run two hooks.

That money you've been spending on spreader bars.....you can now spend on more important things, like ............
 
Over the years I have come to enjoy Halibut fishing and work hard to put several in the boat every year. Although I have changed my rigs several times this is an old picture that represents the type I use.

Picture_or_Video_020_zps8cfd946f.jpg

I no longer use tuna cord. I replaced it with 200# mono. I still use the sliding sinker with a bead on each end to protect the knot. I like the sliding sinker as often they will pick up the bait make the turn without feeling any weight. Once they make the turn with a 12/0 circle hooks they are in caught.

I always us a double hook setup with a 7 to 9 inch UV hoochie on it.

Picture_or_Video_021_zps5396ba81.jpg
 
I see how the sliding sinker swivel works in the mid section of the blue line (I understand you use mono for this now) and there would be a bead at the bottom where the lower swivel is to absorb the shock. I don't understand how your leader with the hoochie/hooks attaches to the rig exactly?

Tom
 
primative":2skmzhac said:
I see how the sliding sinker swivel works in the mid section of the blue line (I understand you use mono for this now) and there would be a bead at the bottom where the lower swivel is to absorb the shock. I don't understand how your leader with the hoochie/hooks attaches to the rig exactly?

Tom

Pretty simple really Tom. Just run your line through the swivel and back through a line crimp. I don't use these but it gives you an idea.
http://www.meltontackle.com/products/mo ... rimps.html

When you use 150 to 200 lb. mono you almost have to use a crimp. I have seen some who can tie a knot with 150 lb. test but I'm not one of them.

On the hook end you just run your top hook up the line, feed the line than through the bottom hook, around the shaft and back through the eye. Pull enough through to crimp the line and your off and running. The Hoochie will slide down on top of your bait or crimp as shown in the picture.
 
hambone":1rid9lm1 said:
primative":1rid9lm1 said:
I see how the sliding sinker swivel works in the mid section of the blue line (I understand you use mono for this now) and there would be a bead at the bottom where the lower swivel is to absorb the shock. I don't understand how your leader with the hoochie/hooks attaches to the rig exactly?

Tom

Pretty simple really Tom. Just run your line through the swivel and back through a line crimp. I don't use these but it gives you an idea.
http://www.meltontackle.com/products/mo ... rimps.html

When you use 150 to 200 lb. mono you almost have to use a crimp. I have seen some who can tie a knot with 150 lb. test but I'm not one of them.

On the hook end you just run your top hook up the line, feed the line than through the bottom hook, around the shaft and back through the eye. Pull enough through to crimp the line and your off and running. The Hoochie will slide down on top of your bait or crimp as shown in the picture.



I think you mean your leader is attached to the top barrel swivel making an eye and crimping. Do you attach your main line to the same top swivel ?

On the hook end of the leader is the top hook kept from sliding down to the eye of the bottom hook by having the top hook above the crimp thus the crimp is a stopper to create the space you want between the hooks or is the top hook below the crimp allowing the top hook to slide down so the hooks are making eye to eye contact? You know you are a fisherman when hooks start looking at each other.

Tom
 
B~C":3odigg4c said:
Thought I'd start a halibut rig thread I stuck some pictures in my album of a quick cheap halibut rig that's worked good for me. I needed a quick cheap easy foolproof halibut rig and ended up with this simple rig.

For $15 you can buy enough 200-250 mono line to make enough rigs to last for quite a while. I start with about a 4' chunk of line and tie an overhand knot on each end, if I'm feeling insecure or have time to kill I'll also add a crimp to the end that attaches to the main line. Next, tie an egg dropper loop knot down towards the lead end. Throw a barrel swivel on the rod end and a snap swivel or duralock on the lead end, add bling and a hook to the dropper loop and you're ready to fish.

Anchor fishing, drifting, this rig does it all and it's easy to strip your hardware off when the mono gets worn or change bling and hooks on a whim. For recreational use, you can start with a longer piece of mono and tie two egg droppers and run two hooks.

That money you've been spending on spreader bars.....you can now spend on more important things, like ............

Cool rig Ken. This rig doesn't look like it can wrap around on itself using the egg loop and no need for the spreader. How long do you make your egg loop? How close do you like it to the bottom sinker. What style, brand, and size hook do you suggest? What size hoochie? Do you tip your hook with bait?

Re: Spreaders: If wanting them cheaper you can make them from the heavier duty coat hanger wire not the skinny wire hangers. In the past I wrapped them with elec. tape to control the rust staining.

Thanks
Tom
 
I don't know if you guys can do this, but when fishing for butts I try to use a filleted out coho, pink, king, or cod on a circle hook. They seem to catch big fish.....really big sometimes as my brother caught a salmon shark using one. I took a couple hours to bring that stupid thing to the side of the boat and felt like being hooked onto the bottom - only he wasn't.....We bled it out immediately and brought it back to Seward to J-Dock for processing. A great fish for sure. The best ever actually - that is unless you count porpoise which I hook into every few years. Of course, you don't really catch those ever, you just accidently hook them and they take off like a rocket. That is, until you cut the line as they are peeling it like crazy. I always hope and pray the hook comes out.

My best day ever for halibut was with filleted out coho and I caught two, back to back, 150-200 pound halibut......That is a lot of fish...

A similar set-up to the one pictured costs around 4 bucks at the Wasilla Sportman's........And I can tell you, it works. But, I not any better than anything else. They seem to really like bait in my opinion.
 
T.R. Bauer":2r1vu2ml said:
I don't know if you guys can do this, but when fishing for butts I try to use a filleted out coho, pink, king, or cod on a circle hook. They seem to catch big fish.....really big sometimes as my brother caught a salmon shark using one. I took a couple hours to bring that stupid thing to the side of the boat and felt like being hooked onto the bottom - only he wasn't.....We bled it out immediately and brought it back to Seward to J-Dock for processing. A great fish for sure. The best ever actually - that is unless you count porpoise which I hook into every few years. Of course, you don't really catch those ever, you just accidently hook them and they take off like a rocket. That is, until you cut the line as they are peeling it like crazy. I always hope and pray the hook comes out.

My best day ever for halibut was with filleted out coho and I caught two, back to back, 150-200 pound halibut......That is a lot of fish...

A similar set-up to the one pictured costs around 4 bucks at the Wasilla Sportman's........And I can tell you, it works. But, I not any better than anything else. They seem to really like bait in my opinion.

Yes indeed,,,,Anytime you can use a salmon belly soaked in Butt juice your in for a treat. For me I believe the more scent you can put on the better. I really like Pro Cures Butt Juice and no, I don't work for them. It just really helps. http://www.pro-cure.com/halibut.html

Hambone :D
 
Haro Strait on the Canadian side. No luck though. Cyrrents were strong and I lost some gear... :cry:
starcrafttom":2cfam5fm said:
where? we have to wait until May but I like to try different spots. I may come over to your side in the summer to try a few spots.
 
Nice rig Ken! How does one tie a "egg loop dropper knot"? Is it a separate loop on the main leader line or a loop off the main leader line? What size hooks, swivels, hoochie and lead are you using in this set up?
I can't wait to catch my first halibut.

Thanks,
Grazer
 
OK here is a beginners Hali question:
Anyone use their downrigger to get down quicker? I understand tangles and possible gear loss ($$), but maybe hit bottom-then come up a couple of feet? Add a longer leader?? It just takes so long to get down with only a pound or two of weight that I have drifted away from where I wanted to put the bait. What is the best and quickest way down??

Thanks
Rob
 
thanks for the knot link. Sat on the couch last night and tied 6 or 7 of them in 50lbs mono. Will dig out the 100 mono and make some up soon. New skills
 
Mike. too bad about the fishing. I did not know that the halibut went to far up Haro strait but had heard stories. How long thru the year do you think they are there?
 
neblig":2sg5fzr6 said:
OK here is a beginners Hali question:
Anyone use their downrigger to get down quicker? I understand tangles and possible gear loss ($$), but maybe hit bottom-then come up a couple of feet? Add a longer leader?? It just takes so long to get down with only a pound or two of weight that I have drifted away from where I wanted to put the bait. What is the best and quickest way down??

Thanks
Rob

Simple really, drop anchor or use trolling motor to help keep line plumb and fish close to slack tide. I wouldn't use downrigger if I were you, asking for problems for sure. A 16 or 20 ounce weight is more than enough in most cases.
 
It funny you said to not use downriggers. There are people that use flashers and large baits from downriggers to drift or even slow troll for hailbuts. I have not tried it but some do it on a regular basic with results.

I like to back in to the wind or current on the kicker to slow my drift and keep the bait straight down.
 
dutch123":dvyz2kk2 said:
neblig":dvyz2kk2 said:
OK here is a beginners Hali question:
Anyone use their downrigger to get down quicker? I understand tangles and possible gear loss ($$), but maybe hit bottom-then come up a couple of feet? Add a longer leader?? It just takes so long to get down with only a pound or two of weight that I have drifted away from where I wanted to put the bait. What is the best and quickest way down??

Thanks
Rob

Simple really, drop anchor or use trolling motor to help keep line plumb and fish close to slack tide. I wouldn't use downrigger if I were you, asking for problems for sure. A 16 or 20 ounce weight is more than enough in most cases.

It depends on where you're at and what the conditions are there (depth in particular). While the W coast of Vancouver Island often has hali in relatively shallow water, it's not unusual for those in WA state to target hali in 300-400' of water. In such deep waters a heavier weight is often used.

Also, as Tom indicated, many troll for hali and do quite well.
 
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