colbysmith
Active member
Sunbeam, I think you did the right thing!
Questions on re-building tandem trailer for 22 Cruiser
- Thread starter Sunbeam
- Start date
Thanks, Colby. And thank you to everyone else who has contributed.
I can happily say that the boat and trailer are now re-united (first time I have ever seen them together, and I think the first time they have been together in many years!). Whew!
Since I knew the trailer and boat had been sold together, and since I was not in a place where I could try it, adjust, try it, adjust, I simply duplicated the bunks that were there before. Happily, they seem to fit well. I only had access to shortish staples and a really stiff manual staple gun, so I just put in a dozen or so staples in each bunk to hold the bunk carpet for now.
I can already see a couple of things to adjust:
1) Cable on winch likes to override; a strap would probably be nicer (I think that may require a different winch).
2) Spare is mounted on top of center trailer beam just under the stem of boat, which would be fine except the tire now blocks a welded loop on the trailer that is the obvious place to attach a safety line to hold the bow in place (so it doesn't have to count on the winch). I'll rig up something different for now, but maybe it would be better to mount the spare elsewhere. (I couldn't shift the spare backwards without hitting the boat.)
3) Seems like a roller under the turn of the stem might be nice (?) to make the bow sit firmer?
4) The motor instructions say to trailer with the motor down in normal running position, but that may put the skeg a bit close to the ground. That may change when it's attached at towing height and not to a yard tractor. I think I'll pick up a 1" dowel and see how that works out under the motor hinge.
Next I take it for a test drive....
I can happily say that the boat and trailer are now re-united (first time I have ever seen them together, and I think the first time they have been together in many years!). Whew!
Since I knew the trailer and boat had been sold together, and since I was not in a place where I could try it, adjust, try it, adjust, I simply duplicated the bunks that were there before. Happily, they seem to fit well. I only had access to shortish staples and a really stiff manual staple gun, so I just put in a dozen or so staples in each bunk to hold the bunk carpet for now.
I can already see a couple of things to adjust:
1) Cable on winch likes to override; a strap would probably be nicer (I think that may require a different winch).
2) Spare is mounted on top of center trailer beam just under the stem of boat, which would be fine except the tire now blocks a welded loop on the trailer that is the obvious place to attach a safety line to hold the bow in place (so it doesn't have to count on the winch). I'll rig up something different for now, but maybe it would be better to mount the spare elsewhere. (I couldn't shift the spare backwards without hitting the boat.)
3) Seems like a roller under the turn of the stem might be nice (?) to make the bow sit firmer?
4) The motor instructions say to trailer with the motor down in normal running position, but that may put the skeg a bit close to the ground. That may change when it's attached at towing height and not to a yard tractor. I think I'll pick up a 1" dowel and see how that works out under the motor hinge.
Next I take it for a test drive....
The instruction to tow with the outboard down in running position is to remove pressure on the tilt/trim hydraulics.
I use an outboard support bracket that keeps the outboard in a tilted position without any pressure on the hydraulics. Google "outboard support bracket" or "transom saver" to get the idea...
Cheers!
John
I use an outboard support bracket that keeps the outboard in a tilted position without any pressure on the hydraulics. Google "outboard support bracket" or "transom saver" to get the idea...
Cheers!
John
G Gallagher
New member
Wow!!! What a lot of effort you are putting in. If I was voting -I'd go for a new trailer knowing it was safe and strong and get rid of the old one.
Doesn't sound like that appeals to you ,but that's my 2 cents worth.
Gary
Doesn't sound like that appeals to you ,but that's my 2 cents worth.
Gary
Jack in Alaska
New member
With a 3000 mile trip looking at you getting the trailer in top shape is important. But to just use it occasionally to the ramp and locally it looked fine to me.
Good luck with your project.
The bow roller is important for support. A tie-down from the bow eye straight down to the trailer is a good idea.
I would no worry about the fender thingys.
A motor support as described above would be good.
I still would scrap the carpet and use teflon runners.
Good luck with your project.
The bow roller is important for support. A tie-down from the bow eye straight down to the trailer is a good idea.
I would no worry about the fender thingys.
A motor support as described above would be good.
I still would scrap the carpet and use teflon runners.
More thanks for all of your responses. Stage I of the trailer re-building is complete, and I am happy to say that it towed adequately ~60 miles (with a rental truck) to where boat and trailer are now resting comfortably in enclosed storage, just waiting for me to get back with my own tow vehicle. Then, I'll head NW (can't wait! :thup).
I can see where a new trailer might have worked well; just in case others read this thread sometime down the line, I'll explain my thought process and why I went the way I did.
First of all, I wanted to get the trailer and boat "reunited" while I was here, so that I could get them into secure, reasonable storage, safe-and-sound, under my own steam (boat was in a rack storage where they were suddenly going to charge me $50 per day to keep it there (new management, blah blah blah). I don't think so!). I figured that getting a new trailer would take longer than improving the existing one, and $50 per day adds up fast (plus I would have been back at home and not here to handle things, which would have put me at a disadvantage).
Second, the trailer "non-perishable" parts were in excellent condition; it didn't look like it had ever been dunked (at least not in salt water). There was a little surface rust on the winch and springs, but the galvanized, welded frame, the axles, and related hardware basically looked clean and like new.
Third, I knew the trailer fit the boat, since they came together from a C-Dory dealer. No guessing on that.
Fourth, I think that some of the upgrades I wanted to make would also have been "additional" upgrades ($) on a new trailer, adding to the cost similarly but on top of the new-trailer price (Kodiak disc brakes on both axles, cypress bunks, Timken made-in-USA bearings, etc.)
Now, I'm no trailer expert, so maybe I could have gotten a new trailer, all set up, with the extras, in less than a week; for a reasonable price -- but I just didn't know, and being "on the road," I had to make decisions as I went along (I also need to get home for a previously scheduled commitment).
I have a few things to do for Stage II, which I will take care of when I get back.
1) The fenders could stand to be shifted outward a bit, as they are not quite centered on the tires.
2) I need to tidy up the new wiring and add in the clearance lights (I only wired the taillights for my daytime trip).
3) I'm considering a new winch so I can use a strap vs. wire rope.
4) I would like to move the spare tire, as it blocks the welded on tie-down loop for the bow. I think the spare's bracket may be equally well mountable vertically on the side of the frame (it's now lying "dinner plate" style between the winch post and the stem of the boat).
5) It seems like it would be nice to have a roller under the curve of the stem - I noticed the boat could rock a bit, but the way it is you could just tighten infinitely "down" on the bow because the boat can rock on its hull rocker shape (which would ultimately lift the stern). I would like a positive "stop" to tie against (I think -- what do you all have there?)
6) While two of the bunks (the shorter ones) extend almost to the transom, the other two (the longer ones) stop a bit short (I just copied the originals since I had no way to check it). Perhaps they could be moved aft.... guess I'll wait to see how things settle out with tongue weight, etc., in case there is something else that wants to be shifted.
All that said, the trailer is much, MUCH nicer than it was, and although I thought I wanted EOH brakes (and I'm sure they would be wonderful), I have to say I was very pleased with the surge brakes. I was expecting a lot of clunking around of the coupler and it didn't really seem to do that (granted I was on flat ground, but I did hit a couple of yellow lights that I decided to stop for). So, I think I'll see how the surge brakes go.
(Of course now I'll have to price a new trailer, just to see what it would have been. If I'm under half the cost, I'll be perfectly happy.)
Just think how much fun it will be when I actually get to use the BOAT
I can see where a new trailer might have worked well; just in case others read this thread sometime down the line, I'll explain my thought process and why I went the way I did.
First of all, I wanted to get the trailer and boat "reunited" while I was here, so that I could get them into secure, reasonable storage, safe-and-sound, under my own steam (boat was in a rack storage where they were suddenly going to charge me $50 per day to keep it there (new management, blah blah blah). I don't think so!). I figured that getting a new trailer would take longer than improving the existing one, and $50 per day adds up fast (plus I would have been back at home and not here to handle things, which would have put me at a disadvantage).
Second, the trailer "non-perishable" parts were in excellent condition; it didn't look like it had ever been dunked (at least not in salt water). There was a little surface rust on the winch and springs, but the galvanized, welded frame, the axles, and related hardware basically looked clean and like new.
Third, I knew the trailer fit the boat, since they came together from a C-Dory dealer. No guessing on that.
Fourth, I think that some of the upgrades I wanted to make would also have been "additional" upgrades ($) on a new trailer, adding to the cost similarly but on top of the new-trailer price (Kodiak disc brakes on both axles, cypress bunks, Timken made-in-USA bearings, etc.)
Now, I'm no trailer expert, so maybe I could have gotten a new trailer, all set up, with the extras, in less than a week; for a reasonable price -- but I just didn't know, and being "on the road," I had to make decisions as I went along (I also need to get home for a previously scheduled commitment).
I have a few things to do for Stage II, which I will take care of when I get back.
1) The fenders could stand to be shifted outward a bit, as they are not quite centered on the tires.
2) I need to tidy up the new wiring and add in the clearance lights (I only wired the taillights for my daytime trip).
3) I'm considering a new winch so I can use a strap vs. wire rope.
4) I would like to move the spare tire, as it blocks the welded on tie-down loop for the bow. I think the spare's bracket may be equally well mountable vertically on the side of the frame (it's now lying "dinner plate" style between the winch post and the stem of the boat).
5) It seems like it would be nice to have a roller under the curve of the stem - I noticed the boat could rock a bit, but the way it is you could just tighten infinitely "down" on the bow because the boat can rock on its hull rocker shape (which would ultimately lift the stern). I would like a positive "stop" to tie against (I think -- what do you all have there?)
6) While two of the bunks (the shorter ones) extend almost to the transom, the other two (the longer ones) stop a bit short (I just copied the originals since I had no way to check it). Perhaps they could be moved aft.... guess I'll wait to see how things settle out with tongue weight, etc., in case there is something else that wants to be shifted.
All that said, the trailer is much, MUCH nicer than it was, and although I thought I wanted EOH brakes (and I'm sure they would be wonderful), I have to say I was very pleased with the surge brakes. I was expecting a lot of clunking around of the coupler and it didn't really seem to do that (granted I was on flat ground, but I did hit a couple of yellow lights that I decided to stop for). So, I think I'll see how the surge brakes go.
(Of course now I'll have to price a new trailer, just to see what it would have been. If I'm under half the cost, I'll be perfectly happy.)
Just think how much fun it will be when I actually get to use the BOAT
Captains Cat
New member
USE THE BOAT?. I thought you just liked to work on trailers :roll: Oh wait, its a CDory, of course you will!
Good job on the trailer... The boat will be way more fun :thup
Have a safe trip!
Charlie
Good job on the trailer... The boat will be way more fun :thup
Have a safe trip!
Charlie
Hey, no worries about summer burning away in the PNW. There was talk by the weather weasels for snow today, above 4000 feet. We do have lots of flowers out, but it is plenty not hot. (Jim bring the long handles :wink: ) Take you time, we can still have summer in October :|
I would add the "fender things". It will keep some of the wet road slop off the boat. I know not many trailers have that but I think it is worth it.
I would also strip all that cable off the winch and see if a strap can be added. I think it can. Maybe call the mfg and ask :shock:
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I would add the "fender things". It will keep some of the wet road slop off the boat. I know not many trailers have that but I think it is worth it.
I would also strip all that cable off the winch and see if a strap can be added. I think it can. Maybe call the mfg and ask :shock:
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Just for your info, I have the same magic tilt trailer and purchased a set of ST 175-80-r13 tires load rating c. Max load 1360lbs at 50 psi. They are the recommended tires for this trailer and have been excellent for the past two seasons towing a few thousand miles each year with a fully loaded 22 cruiser. Brand name is ST radial. One thing I did do as you have already noted is remove fenders, replace plywood with equivalent and elongate the mounting slots to add a bit more clearance for tires, the tires never rubbed on fender but where a little too close because of fender sag from being stepped on over the years. Also I use a long cinch strap over the bow to hold bow firmly to rollers because my spare is also in the way of tie down hook. Just be sure to use a softner of some sort on corners to avoid strap and gel cote chafing. On the rear of trailer around 18 inches from end I have two long PVC poles secured with square pipe in the ends of heavy wall pvc and ubolts to trailer frame to help when loading and unloading, seems to work ok. Hope this helps. :thup
dutch123":1phtsodx said:
Thanks for your note here - nice to hear from someone else with the (seemingly) elusive Magic Tilt TCMF 1921 :thup
(I suppose that's because they are a Florida trailer manufacturer and many more C-Dorys are made/sold in the west.)
dutch123":1phtsodx said:
Again, great to hear of your experience. The only reason I was concerned, was given the potential max GVW of the boat and trailer (rated at 5260#), well, 5260 ÷ 4 = 1315# . I reasoned that it was probably likely that the weight would not be perfectly evenly divided at 25% on each wheel/tire at all times, and so then 45# "leeway" on each one seemed like it might be a bit slim. Of course I'm only going on math and not on actual experience.
The options I found are either going with a Load C 13" tire rated at 1360#, as you did (and which is what I did too, at least for now), going with a Load D 13" tire, rated at 1610# (of which I have found just one example.... seems like it would be nicer to have tires that were more commonly available), or going to a 14" wheel and tire, with various ratings at 1700# or more (for which I would have to get new fenders).
Right now I'm not loaded up at all, so I'm probably nowhere near the GVW for the trailer, but I could easily see that happening in future. I will probably re-visit this issue.
dutch123":1phtsodx said:
Mine are not at all sagged, but the tires were (are) still not lined up properly in the fenders side-to-side. The tires actually protrude past the fender on the outsides, and yet there is "tons" of room on the insides. There is a slot adjustment for side-to-side travel of the fender where it's attached to the little "steps," but it is already set to the maximum outside position. But it looks lik elongating the slot would put it into the curved part of the fender - did you get around this somehow? Or?.
I made it 60 miles just fine, but I can't see keeping it this way long term as there was less than 1/2" between the fender's metal edge and the tire top. Perhaps the little rectangular "steps" that hold the fenders at the forward and after ends could be replaced with longer ones (not sure what these are called; I'll have to find out). The photo below shows the pieces I'm talking about, when the trailer had the original tires. As you can see the original tires were already favoring the outside and not centered in the fender-space; the new tires - although the same size and on the original rims - are slightly wider and extend outside the fenders even more. There is very little clearance between the tires and the top of the fenders where they curl down.
I did also find out that the same fender is available from Magic-Tilt in a 14" wheel size. I'll have to consider my options.
I haven't replaced the carpeted "half moons" (yet), but I may. I just removed them and left them off for my 60-mile jaunt. It seems like the boat might slide over and touch the inside of the fenders when re-loading at a ramp? If so the padding would be useful. Also it seems like they may keep road/tire "stuff" from coming in and hitting the boat? Since I haven't launched/re-loaded, nor driven in rain/gravel, I'm not sure.
Thanks for adding to the thread!
:hot
Robert H. Wilkinson
New member
This may help you kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Go to a metal supply store and buy about 4' of galvanized box tubing, the same size as your fender braces. Cut 4 pieces a couple of inches longer than your present braces. Clamp them on top of your braces and thru bolt them (vertically) You can then rebolt your fenders to this new piece farther out (to be centered above the wheel) and higher (to give you clearance to fit 14" wheels) for future options.
Unless you are concidering adding side rails / posts - I would replace the plywood/carpet to the inner fender. If you back into a ramp a little too far or if it is particularly steep - current/wind can push your keel into the fender - scraping your gel coat/bottom paint.
Regards, Rob
Unless you are concidering adding side rails / posts - I would replace the plywood/carpet to the inner fender. If you back into a ramp a little too far or if it is particularly steep - current/wind can push your keel into the fender - scraping your gel coat/bottom paint.
Regards, Rob