Question about bunks vs. chine "hook" and movement

Sorry I don't have pics but will try to better describe what I did to ensure centering when loading the boat. I bolted 2"x6"x8"Trex board vertically on the trailer cross member channel, aft of the axle, on each side of the trailer against the frame channel. I cut the Trex material to match the angle of the hull side. I lined the edge of the Trex with indoor/ outdoor carpet, attached with 5200. This was to prevent chaffing where contact is made with the hull. Each piece of Trex was mounted with two stainless bolts. What this set up does is capture the hull as the trailer raises to meet the hull. The boat is centered by the time the hull makes contact with the bunk boards and stays that way when traveling. There is about 1/4" play on each side so it is not. Tight fit causing chaffing. Hope this helps. Will try to send pics when home next. Ken
 
Ken,
Thanks for the additional description. I would still like to see photos, so if you do get a chance it would be appreciated - but no rush.

****

After reading everyone's posts and looking over my trailer a bit more, plus photos of others' setups from the albums, I've come to the conclusion that I think I will try to move the two outer bunks (these are the short ones) outward a bit so they are closer to the chine "hooks." I'm talking maybe 3" per side, which would not be a tight fit, but wouldn't let the boat "walk."

It's not a high priority, because the boat trailers fine, but I think it would probably be a slight improvement.

Looking under the trailer, I think I can also see why it was not set up this way to begin with, which is that their "standard" 9" bunk supports were used, and I'm pretty sure that on each side (of the 10 total) would have run out of height adjustment if the bunks had been placed 3" further outboard. However, I've found that I can get the same OEM supports in a 12" length for around $8 each, and it happens to be from a place that has something else I've been meaning to order but didn't want to order just one thing.

Since everything works now, and I'm not sure of the dynamics of changing it (with all the various factors it's hard to be sure until I actually try it), I'll be sure to mark where everything is now before changing anything, so that I can always put it all back the way it is. After that, I think with minimal disturbance I can play with a couple of the bunk supports to try my idea. This will be over the winter at the soonest, though -- but if/when I do try it it I'll report back.

Thanks for all the input,

Sunbeam
 
Bringing this one back up.

The OP was trying to keep the boat from moving side to side on the trailer when traveling. There is one mention of cross tying. That is really the best way to do it without having something against the hull that will chafe at some point.

Also mentioned is that the shorter the tie down the less stretch. Yes. So for most of my towing, 3 miles to the marina I use the short vertical tie downs pictured. For long distances, I use those plus I cross tie, from the starboard tow ring on the boat to the port side trailer loop and from the portside on the boat to the starboard on the trailer.

Any boat (or load) that can move when traveling is technically an "unsecured" load and could subject the driver to a fine at best or a broken strap and a dumped boat at worst.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

IMG_4106.thumb.jpg
 
Wefings":39s6y2ia said:
Just cross your tie downs . port eye to stb trailer and vice versa . It wont move .
Marc
Click to expand...

This. If you can. Some boats have stuff in the way.

You don't want guides to hold your boat in place, that's for getting it lined up as you approach to load your boat from the water to the trailer. Don't tie your boat to the guides if you do.

Your boat should not shift side to side. You should implement some adequate tie down to stop this. I would not rely upon the chines, or bunks being tight to chines to hold it side to side. If it can slide, it can hop off.

Transom eyes are the best thing to attach to on the boat. If you don't have any (mine doesn't) maybe get some installed. Resist strapping to your cleats. Going over the gunnels is the next best, but you must must must use an adequate strap that is probably going to be thicker and more expensive than you'd like. Many straps of this grade have loops behind the hooks for going around things like trailer rails and fastening back to themselves. Protect your gunnels from chafe with padding.

But I agree that your issue is straps, not bunks position so much, and not guide rails.
 
On my trailer the fenders over the wheels act as side guides. The inside of the fender is closed and lined. There is about 2 inches total clearance between the hull and the fenders. This works really well. The only issue is that sometimes on steep ramps the boat can come out of the water sitting on the top of one of the fenders. Just have to dip it once or twice to get the boat to sit right and pull out more slowly.
 
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