Non-skid repair techniques

F

ferret30

New member
My recently purchased boat had some poorly installed "custom" railings and other fittings installed on the cockpit gunnels. I took the hardware off and found that the holes were not sealed, and whoever drilled the holes managed to do way more damage than necessary. I have some pictures in my album of the holes in the non skid surfaces, but the ones I found later after taking off the downrigger base are even worse. It looks like someone used a large bit and went too fast, causing large chips (quarter sized) that look like a rock chip on a windshield. Some of the damage is on smooth gelcoat, but lots of it is on non skid.

I found something that should make the repairs easier:

http://www.masepoxies.com//Videos/NON_SKID_REPAIR.html
http://www.masepoxies.com/public/index.cfm?fuseaction=prodbrws.publicdetail&productid=777755

It looks like it'll make the job a lot easier, but they don't list C-Dory in their pattern table, so it might take trial and error to find the right one. Basically, you wax the whole surface around the damage, Dremel the damaged area to feather the existing gelcoat. The wax keeps the gelcoat from bonding to the areas that are ok. Watch the video...

Now for the questions:

Does anyone know which pattern is the right one for C-Dory?

I need to first fill the holes before I can add a gelcoat layer. I've read epoxy isn't the best for filling holes if you plan to gelcoat. For these holes (mostly 1/4" or smaller), what should I use to fill the holes? My plan would be to use some sort of filler and then do the repair per the video.

Also, the video doesn't mention that gelcoat needs to be covered to cure (something like that). I'm guessing the mold acts as the cover?

I hope the links help someone, and hopefully this all works. I've got about 2 dozen holes around the cockpit that I need to fill!
 
OK--there are a number of other ways to do the same thing. First, I don't believe he mentioned that one needs to catalize the gel coat--you do. The waxed mold material will act as the air barrier, so PVA or wrap is not necessary.

You can take a part of the non skid on a flat area, and make your own female mold. Wax the gel coat very well--mold release wax works well. Then you can use material as simple as "Bondo" (and this is one of the only places I would suggest you use "Bondo"--you are not putting it on the boat. It is also used to fair molds. You make a section--can be backed with masonite or plywood, push the catalyzed "Bondo" into the non skid. Let it cure, and pull it off. That way you will have a perfect mold of your deck. Then do the tricks which are suggested--that is wax around the area--but not where you want adherence. grind down the gel coat to level just around the ding. You can fill the ding, with laminating resin, and cabosil, or medium density filler before hand. Mix your gel coat, put it thickly onto the area you need to mold the new non skid, You will have waxed the "Bondo" impression with molding wax, --be sure no air bubbles when doing the mold or repair. Let the gel coat go off--the mold will be the air inhibiter. Then remove, and touch up with 600 wet and dry paper in the groves.

Another way, is to use thickened gel coat, then if only a small area, use a dremel tool with a fine bit to replicate the non skid. Again do the final sanding with wet and dry--you may need to start with 320, work up to 1000.

Another good way to "non skid" if you want gel coat, is to thicken it, and put it on with a roller--there are several types of rollers to use--but with thickened gel coat you will get a non skid identical to what was on the floor of many of the C Dory 25's.

I like to use two part LP paint (Sterling works very well) for a large area like Tom's cabin top. Mask off those areas you want to be smooth. For the first coat, add glass micro beads if you want a fine non skid--if you want it a bit courser, add masonary sand, or really agressive, then walnut shells, as used for cleaning jet turbines etc. I like to roll on a second coat of paint, after removing the maksing tape--and that holds the non skid in place, and gives an identical color and finish to the areas which are smooth.
 
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