NEW type Rule Mate Auto bilge pumps

I got a new one. Yes, the old bracket does not fit. However, the screw holes for the new one is just like the old ones on the 2007 CD 25. Just have to remove and replace.
 
On the New Rule Mate Series it says a sensor turns on when the water level reaches 2 3/4 inches and than it is pumped out. Does anyone know how much of that 2 3/4 inches of water will be pumped out before the sensor turns off. I am looking to buy a couple of bilge pumps for my boat. Thanks
 
localboy":ikht5z98 said:
Do the current models have an internal float switch now?
Click to expand...

Yes and I hope the newer ones are more reliable than the current model. I have a feeling from reading the literature that the new ones will be more troublesome. I think the current model if I remember correctly comes on with about 1 1/4" of water and pumps down to about 1/4".
 
Here's what I think is driving this:

The "OLD SCHOOL" bilge switches had mercury switches in them. Two electrodes within the float body made a circuit when the liquid mercury contacted them during of the "up' position of the buoyant float. However, mercury is a heavy metal, is poisonous, and accumulates in the body, just like lead and most heavy metals. The safe disposal and recycling of used mercury devices is the real driving issue.

Environmental concerns have pressed for the elimination of mercury, and more recent designs of bilge switches/floats have used metal balls in substitution for liquid mercury. These are more problematic and have reliability issues.

This new type switch has already been used before, where exposed electrodes test for the presence of water by testing for conductivity. The new version probably has an integrated circuit chip /"brain" incorporated into it. The older versions wee fairly expensive, and didn't see much use, very possibly because of reliability issues. I suspect they get pretty gunked up with oil, hair, fish scales, salt, and other miscellaneous lost and found goodies.

I'd be willing to bet these new switches (and the pumps that use them) will make us long for the good old days.

Does anyone have some good old mercury bilge pump switches to sell???

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Joe,

The sensors in these new Rule units seem to be based on the same principle as the Water Witch (etc.). I believe they do not measure conductivity, but rather a more elusive parameter, the dielectric constant of the fluid between the terminals. The pads on the Water-Witch-style sensors on my boat are not metal; they are plastic, and easily wiped free of crap. In service, they seem OK in my inboard, but I have a clean bilge.

Here is a line from the manual: "The sensor's unique "field effect" technology is programmed to recognize the dielectric constant of water only. In the event of an onboard oil spill, straight motor oil that enters the bilge will not turn the pump on."

More: http://www.rule-industries.com/files/950-0595.pdf

I agree anything which contacts bilge water is subject to contamination, so the old style switches had that advantage. Like you, I remember when mercury switches were common; and, that we used to play with mercury in our hads all the time, and coat dimes with the stuff (when dimes were made of silver).

Joe, face it: we are both old farts! :roll: :lol:
 
I bought one of the new Rule-Mate pumps yesterday. RM500A It turns on at 2.75" and pumps water down to less than .5" The weather forecast was for rain overnight. An understatement. In the last 12 hours we have received almost 10" of rain. My new flats skiff is in an open slip. The Rule-Mate is working great and keeping the boat almost empty. We are predicted to receive heavy rain until 7 PM, maybe another 10". Time will tell how the pump fairs. We are in Rockport, Texas, just north of Corpus Christi.

Brent
 
AstoriaDave":1hp9xtm9 said:
Joe,


Here is a line from the manual: "The sensor's unique "field effect" technology is programmed to recognize the dielectric constant of water only. In the event of an onboard oil spill, straight motor oil that enters the bilge will not turn the pump on."
Click to expand...

This is what concerns me which water are they talking about salt, fresh, cold, sandy, muddy, bloody I think all these factors effect dielectric constant. I'm anxious to see a report back on how they work. While the older models weren't that reliable in my book you could take them apart and clean the float. I've worked in a few food prossessing plants (brewery's) and paper mills if I remember correctly we installed similiar devices that required pretty intense calibration for the various liquids. The older model was pretty pricey. I might look at other options when replacement time comes.

On edit I posted this before I noticed Brent's post maybe this is the magic cure to the bilge pump blues. For those who keep their boats on lifts they know what a pain it is no being able to simply pull the plug and flush out the cockpit.
 
Marvin,

I have not tested any of the several varieties of water you describe, but you raise a good question.

I think (hope?) these sensors are tuned to sense "water" in comparison to "fuel" or "oil." The latter two have very different dielectric propeties than "water." The Water Witch-style sensors (same technology, I think) have a pretty good history of service, I believe.

One thing not to like about the new Rules is that if the sensor fails, you have to toss the pump, also, and vice-versa. Having the two separate means when one fails, you replace it only. Yep, "when," not "if."
 
Dave-

1.) Thanks for the update from the technological point of view!

2.) You blew my cover, but at least included yourself with me in the "Old Farts" classification! :lol:

I suspect that we are not alone within this C-Brat portion of the world! :smileo

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Switch on Rule failed and I am replacing with a Johnson electronic switch plus adding a second one (Johnson 1000 with e-switch) wired to battery
 
Back
Top