New Member with Quick Question

J

Jimmylee

New member
Well I figured I would go ahead and say hello to everyone after visiting this site for some time now (well over a year). We purchased a 22 cruiser last spring and have been having a blast on the boat with our two young daughters. We were at the Anacortes Salmon Derby last weekend and spotted Jazzmanic and Work Release. The Derby was a blast.

My one quick question is this: I noticed the other day I have small spots of what look like rust on the steering wheel and cover of the Wallas Stove. The spots are very small. I was going to just wipe the areas with some Boeshield T-9, curious what others have used to deal with this....

Thanks in advance.

Chip
 
Welcome! I don't have an answer to your question about rust spots, but we will no doubt cross paths this spring / summer - we will have our CD25 Daydream in dry storage at Hilton Harbor Marina on the Bellingham waterfront from after the Friday Harbor CBGT (C-Brat Get Together) in mid-May through the end of August. We plan to do a LOT of San Juan cruising out of Bellingham in this period...and maybe a little crabbing and fishing in the CD16 Crabby Lou out of Blaine. Hope to see you out there!


Jimmylee":1305mtyg said:
Well I figured I would go ahead and say hello to everyone after visiting this site for some time now (well over a year). We purchased a 22 cruiser last spring and have been having a blast on the boat with our two young daughters. We were at the Anacortes Salmon Derby last weekend and spotted Jazzmanic and Work Release. The Derby was a blast.

My one quick question is this: I noticed the other day I have small spots of what look like rust on the steering wheel and cover of the Wallas Stove. The spots are very small. I was going to just wipe the areas with some Boeshield T-9, curious what others have used to deal with this....

Thanks in advance.

Chip
Click to expand...
 
It is possiable that you do have some rust--often SS does rust in small areas--it is an alloy. I would suggest that you use phosphoric acid and wipe and then dry those areas. (there are items like "rust away" which will do this. If you leave bioshield on the stove it will be a problem when the top heats up in the "heater mode".

I use Corrosion block on most of the fittings outside of the boat, including the engine. It works very well.
 
Chip, Sometimes, very small rust spots on stainless are small chips of steel from previous sanding, grinding or drilling nearby. Just lightly buffing them away and repolishing may be all they need. My $.02 for what it's worth.
 
Chip,

I'm sorry we did not get a chance to meet you in Anacortes. There will lots of opportunities to meet other brats at various gatherings this spring/summer. Hope you'll be able to make one of those, especially the Bellingham gathering in August.

As for the rust, Caryn uses Barkeeper's friend to remove the rust and it works pretty well.

Hope to see you out there this summer.

Peter
C-Dancer
 
My guess is someone filed something made of metal and some grit was
left behind and the salt air took over. Doctor Bob would know what to use
but I would try a wax to seal it after using a cleaner. Bob Heselberg
Eatonville Wa
 
Both the wheel in my 16 and my 22 rusted pretty quickly. I'm in about as salty and area as you can get. I think it's simply inferior stainless. I used rust away and wipe the wheel down occasionally with corrosion block. When I built my dock about 10 years ago I used 316 Stainless nails. Toward the end of the project I got a deal on some 304 stainless nails. The 304's all are showing rust but the 316 aren't.[/url]
 
When I got my new TC 255, there were already rust stains on some of the water/sewage SS outlet fittings. At that time some said it was from some cheap Chinese SS alloys, some said it was common amongst some SS castings. I got those replaced, but over time, some other of the bolt on fittings had rust spots here and there.

I think the final answer was that it is not rare nowadays to have this problem since so many variables are present in the moderately priced alloys. As above mentioned, some SS's are not as rust resistant as others.

I am not in salt water too most of the year, so occasional cleaning has worked well for me.

John
 
I used to sell diving and marine equipment (OMC, Johnson outboards, Morse Controls etc).

My boss was famous for saying "it's called stainLESS steel...not stainPROOF steel".
 
localboymark":1j9u5xnq said:
I used to sell diving and marine equipment (OMC, Johnson outboards, Morse Controls etc).

My boss was famous for saying "it's called stainLESS steel...not stainPROOF steel".
Click to expand...

excellent!
 
Dreamer":1p757r5p said:
Chip, Sometimes, very small rust spots on stainless are small chips of steel from previous sanding, grinding or drilling nearby. Just lightly buffing them away and repolishing may be all they need. My $.02 for what it's worth.
Click to expand...

Clean stainless steel with metal polishing compounds designated for stainless, fine wet/dry emery cloth, or rust removing compounds.

Do not use steel wool, non-stainless steel brushes, other metal particles, or tools on it.

Stainless is an alloy of iron, chromium, carbon, nickel, manganese, and sometimes other small amounts of metals designed for form non-reactive cells of metal atoms with specific molecular structures that do not ordinarily corrode, oxidize, or otherwise easily chemically combine.

Abrading the stainless cells with certain compounds or metal tools can upset the cell structure and lead to rusting of the stainless alloy.

The worst is to try to polish stainless with another metal tool like a metal brush, file, or steel wool. Small welds are made and then broken as the metal tool abrades the stainless cell structures. The disrupted cells and broken weld spots then rust very easily.

Before you do a whole lot of stainless metal finishing, take the above into consideration and stay away from the obvious errors.

There also are chemical compounds that "passivate" stainless after it has been machined and polished to help eliminate the rusting, etc. They form a layer of chromium oxide on the surface of the stainless to protect it. You may purchase these passivating compounds.

This is from advice given to me by a metallurgist and welding process supervisor at the Westinghouse Marine Division plant in Sunnyvale, California. They welded everything from steam turbine blades to submarine missile tubes.

And yes, there are countless different stainless alloys as well as many exotic and expensive alloys that make stainless seem like pot metal by comparison.

Hope this is useful to everyone!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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