New engine selection for new hull

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Bartered for this one, so it didn't cost me actual money initially. So far, the glass and epoxy and core materials were in the neighborhood of $2,500 and I'm doing all the labor. Certainly there will be lots of additional costs, but I'm estimating that the done project will be pushing around $20,000 with the repower, head, tanks, gadgets... Kinda hard to get a 28' C-Dory for that price. Heck, I could fall flat on my face with this thing, but so far, so good. I kinda like doing projects that require experience that's over my head. Keeps me learning...

Like your helm seat, SoBELLE. Build it from scratch or modify an existing seat?
 
tomherrick":320ntzym said:
....Like your helm seat, SoBELLE. Build it from scratch or modify an existing seat?
Click to expand...

That's just the stock seat. I added the hinges and cut the existing base in half. It's just black Starboard.

One half of the base was left in the original position and the other half was moved to the front edge of the seat bottom to provide an attachment for the hinges. Some chair leg feet were put on the bottom of the aft half of the base as spacers to compensate for the thickness of the hinges. This was a lot easier than cutting and modifying the hinges on the seat between the bottom and the back like some people have done.
 
@Digger Not me, no I'm happy to have it take up half my geeradge so I can't do any large woodworking projects. :? Like for the past four years... I'm feeling good about finally getting this hunka glass upright and in the water!

@SoBELLE Cool. I like that. Somebody had set up theirs to fold forward at the hinge and lay flat to become additional galley space. I liked that too. Lots of choices...
 
Allright, one last post of my last drawings for the NA to review.

C_Dory_Bracket_Extension_001.jpg


T.R., the more I spend time with the drawings, the more I tend to agree that 115HP is gonna be a tad light-duty.
 
N.A. say yea! We've kicked around a few variations on fillets and gussets on the bracket to ensure it stays on the boat, but don't become trip hazards - as it's also a swim-step - but we're there. I like nearly all of his suggestions and the ones I didn't we found common ground after swapping design ideas.

Now, all I gotta do is build it. :roll:
 
That is absolutely so cool. :cigar :beer Good on you for doing such a great project. Looking forward to more pictures and description of the on going work.
Cheers
Ron
 
Where are you proposing to put the batteries? Having them at the very back (like most C-Dorys) is not the best place (IMO).

Mine has two batteries in the starboard lazarette. Moving them and rewiring will be a PITA.
 
Batteries? Well, in the back, of course... The cockpit side decks will be 10" wide to accommodate side-mounted fuel and other tanks; the aft deck at the transom is to be 16" wide to accommodate battery storage and a propane locker.

ssobol, what's your aversion to storage in the very back? If it's weight aft, the N.A. kept after me to move tanks back due to the increased buoyancy that this bracket adds. I wanted a freshwater tank under the V-berth where the original aluminum fuel tank was, but he nixed that and kept me moving tanks further aft. I keep remembering how hard it was to see over the bow on plane due to the shallow-angled transom (10° vs current 15°); I was always wanting more weight forward, making it a little hard for me to accept his math. Science vs. guts... Anyway, if aft placement is based on other concerns, I'd like to hear more about it.

Bracket cores are the project of the week - hopefully just one... ...week, that is...
 
Just thinking of things that I would change on my 22 if I had the chance. Since you're extending a 22 there might some of the same issues.

Yes, you have more buoyancy because of the bracket, but you also moved the batteries' moment arm is larger.

In my 22 I am planning to move the water tank to the front v-berth compartment (as soon as I can find a suitable tank). Even if we don't use the water for drinking it will be good for balance. I find that with my standard load I usually run with the trim tabs about 2/3 to 3/4 extended (with the engine trim all the way in). When fully loaded they need to be pretty much full down to get the bow where I want it. (Yes, a Permatrim should help, but I haven't got one yet.)

It's your boat and your NA (who knows better than me), so it's up to you. I was just making a suggestion.
 
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