:?: The deck anchor protector; this is the piece of (starboard?) glued down behind the anchor on my 22 Cruiser is chipped and cracked. So I would like to replace it. Does any one know how these are glued down? I'm assuming something lke 5200 is used. Any suggestions on how to get it off would be welcome. Also are these something I can purchase or should I just plan to fabricate one?
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Need to replace anchor deck protector plate
- Thread starter NC-TFC
- Start date
I think you've got a custom, non-factory supplied item there, as I've never heard of one before.
But it's a good idea if the anchor shank bangs down hard on the deck, say by the windlass, and can't be eliminated, although I've not had that problem.
There are also chain and anchor shank locks and other devices found on the pages of marine catalogues that are designed to control anchor shanks and chain rodes. Using one of these may be a good replacement if you can get the plastic sheet off.
If you want to replace the one you've got, you'll have to buy a piece of Starboard or a panel of HDPE (high density poly ethylene) (as found in cutting boards) and cut a replacement out yourself and then also get the old one off.
Try prying it off gently. If that doesn't work, try heating a flat piece of steel, like a putty knife, and working it a bit at a time under the plastic sheet, then breaking or cutting the sheet out in sections. But be very careful NOT TO BURN OR DEFORM the fiberglass underneath.
The best way would probably be to pass a hot wire between the plastic sheet and the fiberglass, melting the adhesive, but would require some careful experimentation and probably two persons working together. You'd need some nichrome (nickel-chromium) wire and a large variable 120 volt AC resistor like a POWERSTAT to control the voltage, and therefore the heat, developed by the wire, and you'd have to keep it stretched tight between the plastic sheet and the deck. It works like a heat powered band saw, and the system is often used to cut plastics, but under carefully controlled conditions.
Best to start out simple and see how you can get the job done more simply.
Maybe others will have some ideas to help out.
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
But it's a good idea if the anchor shank bangs down hard on the deck, say by the windlass, and can't be eliminated, although I've not had that problem.
There are also chain and anchor shank locks and other devices found on the pages of marine catalogues that are designed to control anchor shanks and chain rodes. Using one of these may be a good replacement if you can get the plastic sheet off.
If you want to replace the one you've got, you'll have to buy a piece of Starboard or a panel of HDPE (high density poly ethylene) (as found in cutting boards) and cut a replacement out yourself and then also get the old one off.
Try prying it off gently. If that doesn't work, try heating a flat piece of steel, like a putty knife, and working it a bit at a time under the plastic sheet, then breaking or cutting the sheet out in sections. But be very careful NOT TO BURN OR DEFORM the fiberglass underneath.
The best way would probably be to pass a hot wire between the plastic sheet and the fiberglass, melting the adhesive, but would require some careful experimentation and probably two persons working together. You'd need some nichrome (nickel-chromium) wire and a large variable 120 volt AC resistor like a POWERSTAT to control the voltage, and therefore the heat, developed by the wire, and you'd have to keep it stretched tight between the plastic sheet and the deck. It works like a heat powered band saw, and the system is often used to cut plastics, but under carefully controlled conditions.
Best to start out simple and see how you can get the job done more simply.
Maybe others will have some ideas to help out.
Good Luck!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Captains Cat
New member
Why not make a box with the bottom a little larger than the damaged plate and sides a little shorter than the thickness of the plate and put it on the top with more 5200, or 4200 if you ever want to remove it.
Will give you a new looking installation, thicker protection with a whole lot less work!
Charlie
Will give you a new looking installation, thicker protection with a whole lot less work!
Charlie
Almas Only
New member
I agree with Charlie - work around it. If you want to remove it, your best bet is about 3 feet of piano wire wrapped around a couple of pieces of broom stick. Start at a corner, and keep the handles as close to the deck as you can. It should cut right through the adhesive, without any risk of lifting off chunks of gel coat in the process.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thanks for the advice, I never considered it being a custom add on but it makes sense. I took a closer look and the plate is glued to the non-skid on either side of the smooth Gel coat directly behind the anchor. So making a box to fit over it may be the least risky way to go. I am going to add an anchor pin bracket on top to help hold the anchor fast to the deck. I'll post some pictures when I'm finished.
Captains Cat
New member
Make sure you through bolt your anchor pin bracket securely with good backing to hold it. It will take a lot of strain at times. And, since I think the foredeck is cored, be sure to seal the core.
Charlie
Charlie