Main & Kicker Installation Dimensions

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I'm rebuilding my 1984 rotted transom in the general design of the current 22-Angler. I'd like to be able to install my Honda 90 and a new 9.9 as a kicker; both remotely controlled, tilted, started and steered. I can find no Honda dealer in Kentucky who has installed a kicker; just not done here I guess. I have a Honda rigging guide, but there is no dimensional info for a main and kicker setup; only singles and twins.

Can anyone who has this kind of setup tell me the dimension from the center of the main mounting plate to the center of the kicker mounting plate?

Thanks,

Tom Herrick
 
I think I have the setup you want to copy. The VTEC 90 and the 9.9 Hi-Thrust with power tilt. I'll make a note to measure it tonight and forward the information. Mine's on a 2007 22 footer and the installation has worked out well. Clearances are close, but not too bad. I have a quick-release stainless tie rod between the motors, but I never remove the rod.

I can run and steer with both motors down, or main down and kicker up, but when running with the kicker I need to leave the main down or mostly down to have full steering range.

What amazed me is how well the boat handles around docks with both motors running. I have the Honda twin throttle quadrant and it's REALLY easy to spin the boat and back it up and generally play around with it.

I only do that once in a while, but it's fun when I want it.

Jeff
 
Jeff, I'm not certain but I suspect that the transom on Tom's 1984 Classic is considerably different than the transom on your 2007. Perhaps someone else will chime in on this and post some pictures of the differences.
 
I have a 2008 22 Angler with a Honda 90 and purchased a Honda 9.9 kicker. I haven't mounted the kicker yet because the rubber molding on the top of the transom is slightly wider than the transom thickness and won't allow the kicker mount to slide over. I think the molding needs to be trimmed by a millimeter or two.

If anyone has a Honda 90 with 9.9 kicker, that are both transom mounted, I'm with Tom - it would really help if you could provide the distance from the main motor mount center to the kicker mount.

By the way, does anyone have any information that would indicate why the kicker couldn't be mounted on the port side of the main as opposed to the starboard side?

Thanks,

Roger
 
Look in the photo album for Elk Tenn. Photo numbers 5 and 8 show the transom on his '85 Classic and the motor well extends into the cockpit. Considerably different than the transoms on the newer C-Dorys.

However since Tom says he is rebuilding his transom, perhaps the end result will be the same as the newer C-Dorys.

On "re-read" of Tom's initial post, I see that he is planning to change the transom to the new design, so I guess my comments serve no merit in obtaining the answer to his question.
 
Dave, I'm completely rebuilding the transom, and not to original spec. My intention is to end up with a structure similar to the current 22-Angler model. The current model has a 60-inch cutout on an 80-inch transom. My transom is 70-inches wide at the sheerline. Needless to say, my modifications will entail much more than simply cutting off the existing transom and creating a new one in its place.

That said, I'm most interested in these engine mounting dimensions for installations where the owner finds their main and kicker working to their satisfaction.

Thanks all,

Tom
 
I made the measurements tonight. I got 18.5" and I'd say I'm within +/- 1/16". I found a height where both engine mounts have symmetrical areas where the engine fits in when in the running position. At least they certainly seem to be symmetrical. I added the distance between these areas, from engine to engine, plus half of the width of the corresponding area from each engine. As a quick check I measured across the back of the engines but that's only a check because you have to estimate the neutral alignment of the engines.

My kicker is on the starboard side to make lots of room for the factory swim platform. The engine rigger wanted to put the kicker to port and the hose layout would have been easier and cleaner, but I REALLY wanted to keep the factory swim step setup intact. The rigger had a forklift to hang the engine while we fussed and measured and checked things and it all worked out.

Of course you'll clamp your engine in place temporarily to try my dimension before drilling the holes in your transom, right? Too many possible variables between boats and equipment to safely skip such a sanity check...

Having the two engines linked together for steering and using the standard Honda dual throttle quadrant means you can use both engines together to maneuver around the harbor like the big twin engine fishing boats. It's easy and fun. At low speeds and throttle settings, the off center thrust from the geared-down Hi-thrust 9.9 and it's four blade prop is pretty significant and it pairs well with the centerline thrust of the 90. With a lightweight, shallow draft, small boat it's easy to run one engine forward and the other reverse and spin the boat in place.

Furthermore, with the dual throttle quadrant, you can easily control the motion. You set the steering straight ahead. Then you push one throttle forward a little and one back a little. That sets the direction of rotation. You control the speed of rotation by how far you split the levers. To control forward or sternward drift during rotation (due to wind or current), you leave the split distance between the levers the same, but move them both forward a little or both backward a little at the same time.

Get away from obstacles somewhere and play with it a couple minutes. You'll see the idea working. Then throw someone (just kidding) in the water and practice rotating while maintaining your relative location from the object. After that you can go show off by the docks.....

Jeff
 
Thanks so much, Jeff. I know it'll all be much tighter than the 24-inch centerlines and 17-inch outside clearance that the rigging guide states. Using those specs, you'd need a transom cutout of 82-inches. Tough to do on an 80-inch wide boat, much less the configuration I'll have.

Your help is way above and beyond the call of duty. I'll make good use of the info.

Thanks again,

Tom
 
Fairbanks Fisher said:
I have a 2008 22 Angler with a Honda 90 and purchased a Honda 9.9 kicker. I haven't mounted the kicker yet because the rubber molding on the top of the transom is slightly wider than the transom thickness and won't allow the kicker mount to slide over. I think the molding needs to be trimmed by a millimeter or two.

By the way, does anyone have any information that would indicate why the kicker couldn't be mounted on the port side of the main as opposed to the starboard side?

Thanks,

Roger
--------------------
Roger,

You are correct. When the factory set-up our boat in 2005, they trimmed the rubber moulding in order to slide the kicker over the transom. However, at the end of the season we added Bennett trim tabs so the factory installed a mini-jacker so that the kicker would clear the trim tabs. I like the mini-jacker install, very neat and clean. See the pic below. Also, our kicker was installed on the port side and our swim step is installed on the starboard side. The only thing I don't like about the port-side installation is the tiller is too close to the gunnel of the boat whereas a starboard installation the tiller would be closer to the middle. I think they installed it that way in order to offset the weight of the batteries. Oh well, it works.

DSCF1420.thumb.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Jeff,

Great information on the transom mount measurements.

Peter,

I hadn't thought about the kicker interfering with the trim tabs. I was planning on using the same ones you've got on C-Dancer and would probably have run into the same problem.

How's the stability on the Mini Jacker? Do you leave the engine on all of the time - while trailering? Do you have a steering rod from the main to the kicker?

Thanks,

Roger
 
Hello Roger

My 9.9 hp kicker is mounted on the port side on the Minie Jacker and connected to the main using Cabelas SS rod.
The set up on that bracket is stable and permanent and I am very satisfied.
I only connect the motors for trolling and slow traveling when powering with the kicker. I remove the rod when I raise the kicker for traveling under full power.
I have a couple of pictures of the connecting rod in my album.
The Minni Jacker was ordered from Bass pro shop. At the time they were the most reasonable.
Good luck and have fun

Ed
 
Ed,

Thanks. I looked at your photos and it looks like what I have in mind for my boat. I don't have the remote power controls but I would like to steer the kicker from the helm. I'll probably use one of the electronic power remotes for engine speed.

You've got a nice setup.

Roger
 
Just out a 9.9 Honda - with trim tabs I used the mini-jacker to clear them and get the motor height right - Shop for cost I think I got mine from tuppins for 89
H
 
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